Bismuth core Joule thief

[elgersmad]

Bismuth, orients itself 90 degrees away from a magnetic field.  It's also known to be an anti-compass needle.  It would point east to west.

If you look at diamagnetic levitation it really just projects the magnetic lines at 90 degree angles and lets them oppose or attract.  Balance that effect out and the magnet doesn't move.

If you wanted to use a diamagnetic material to change the way a transformer worked, you would place in a gap.  Grind a gap in a toroid, and then fill it with Bismuth.  Then when the gap is just the right width, all the magnetic lines will jump out at that gap in all directions.  So, if there were another core centered over the bismuth, it would suddenly magnetize and demagnetize.  In effect, that would act like a gapped core, and you could make the gapped core a part of a parallel resonant circuit, and then take the power from the gap via the core wrapped around the gap.  The core wrapped around the gap would be axially magnetized, then demagnetized.  The real difference is that the bismuth filling the gap would enable that extra slug to be effective.  Like a U core, ground down on one side to fit in a toroid right over the gap.  With one side gapped and the other without any gap where you have the primary wound, the primary would always act like a standard inductor.  So, the Q of the primary should almost be unaffected by the load on the secondary.  Almost as if the secondary were disconnected from the magnetic circuit all together.  But, that would take some time and the gap distances would be near 1 cm on one side and 0 on the other.

Imagine the magnetic lines shooting out in all directions, and then attracting from opposite poles.  The bismuth would do that, and force the magnetic lines to connect in the air.  The toroid should be shorter than the gap.  It would look more like an old school flyback transformer when finished.

[resonanceman]

Bismuth, orients itself 90 degrees away from a magnetic field.  It's also known to be an anti-compass needle.  It would point east to west.

If you look at diamagnetic levitation it really just projects the magnetic lines at 90 degree angles and lets them oppose or attract.  Balance that effect out and the magnet doesn't move.

If you wanted to use a diamagnetic material to change the way a transformer worked, you would place in a gap.  Grind a gap in a toroid, and then fill it with Bismuth.  Then when the gap is just the right width, all the magnetic lines will jump out at that gap in all directions.  So, if there were another core centered over the bismuth, it would suddenly magnetize and demagnetize.  In effect, that would act like a gapped core, and you could make the gapped core a part of a parallel resonant circuit, and then take the power from the gap via the core wrapped around the gap.  The core wrapped around the gap would be axially magnetized, then demagnetized.  The real difference is that the bismuth filling the gap would enable that extra slug to be effective.  Like a U core, ground down on one side to fit in a toroid right over the gap.  With one side gapped and the other without any gap where you have the primary wound, the primary would always act like a standard inductor.  So, the Q of the primary should almost be unaffected by the load on the secondary.  Almost as if the secondary were disconnected from the magnetic circuit all together.  But, that would take some time and the gap distances would be near 1 cm on one side and 0 on the other.

Imagine the magnetic lines shooting out in all directions, and then attracting from opposite poles.  The bismuth would do that, and force the magnetic lines to connect in the air.  The toroid should be shorter than the gap.  It would look more like an old school flyback transformer when finished.

elgersmad

From what I have heard  the toroids  would not be very good for JTs after you cut a slit out of them.

What about a ring of bismuth around the outside of a toroid?

It would be easy to make a mold using a toroid with some layers of tape on the outside of it.    after the mold is finished the tape could be removed and the toroid put back into the mold
If the toroid was heated in an  oven or something before pouring the bismuth a fairly thin bismuth ring could be poured.

a couple posts back I told about my experment with 1 bismuth toroid in a candy cane coil.
With candy cane coils the transformer ratio is spread  over all the toroids..... it is the ratio of the total number of wraps of each winding  across all the  toroids.
When I did the test I was hoping that the bismuth toroid would react in the way you described in  your idea.........perhaps it is just to much bismuth.


gary

[elgersmad]

I would have tested the bismuth alone.  Being that it is unique, should be tested for it's own qualities.  Just a primary, measure inductance.  A primary and a secondary, 1:2 turn ratio, hook it up to a signal generator.  Measure the voltage input, output, check phase.  Measure power in and power out.  See if there's a difference.  Start with the most basic inductor experiments and labs you did in first year electronics.

Then mix it 50/50 with powdered iron.  Powdered iron is fairly cheap and you can buy it on the internet.  You can't get powdered bismuth but, you can weigh it and melt it.  In powder form, bismuth is flammable.  That doesn't prevent you from mixing the iron powder with the molten bismuth.  I would use a common solder flux to assist in the mixing process.  I have made some complex magnetic assemblies.  If you use this calculator to find the minimum thickness of a steel plate required to retain all of the magnetic lines or for maximum pull.  Then you can multiply that by 3 and get three pieces of metal that same minimum thickness and make poles oppose.  In odd numbers the magnets never loose magnetization.  But, it will interfere with objects a long distance away.  More than 20 feet.  If you have an old TV or video monitor, not the flat screen but the CTR type, from 20 to 30 feet away 1 inch diameter neodymium magnets on a bolt with several washers of the right thickness will allow you to tweak the color, tilt the picture from a serious 10 feet away.  At 2 feet you can almost push the whole picture right off of the monitor.

So, combining bismuth and powdered iron may not be a bad idea because, some and certain complex magnetic fields are literally stronger, projected farther and have more energy bound too them even though the surface magnetization may be only 2000 gauss.  If that's the same when you are standing 3 feet away, the energy is not so heavily bound to the metal itself.  So, complex magnetic fields help certain magnets like Alinco, which is Aluminum Nickel and Iron or Cobalt.  But, that's not like Chrome Bismuth Ferrite, or Nickel Bismuth Iron.  I don't see where any of these mixtures have been tested.  No-body wants to because, bismuth has a very low melting point and can be very flammable.  If you can find the chemical equation for bismuth when it burns, then you can look at finding a powdered form of spent or already burned bismuth powder and it will never be flammable.  It might be an oxide.

[resonanceman]

I would have tested the bismuth alone.  Being that it is unique, should be tested for it's own qualities.  Just a primary, measure inductance.  A primary and a secondary, 1:2 turn ratio, hook it up to a signal generator.  Measure the voltage input, output, check phase.  Measure power in and power out.  See if there's a difference.  Start with the most basic inductor experiments and labs you did in first year electronics.

Then mix it 50/50 with powdered iron.  Powdered iron is fairly cheap and you can buy it on the internet.  You can't get powdered bismuth but, you can weigh it and melt it.  In powder form, bismuth is flammable.  That doesn't prevent you from mixing the iron powder with the molten bismuth.  I would use a common solder flux to assist in the mixing process.  I have made some complex magnetic assemblies.  If you use this calculator to find the minimum thickness of a steel plate required to retain all of the magnetic lines or for maximum pull.  Then you can multiply that by 3 and get three pieces of metal that same minimum thickness and make poles oppose.  In odd numbers the magnets never loose magnetization.  But, it will interfere with objects a long distance away.  More than 20 feet.  If you have an old TV or video monitor, not the flat screen but the CTR type, from 20 to 30 feet away 1 inch diameter neodymium magnets on a bolt with several washers of the right thickness will allow you to tweak the color, tilt the picture from a serious 10 feet away.  At 2 feet you can almost push the whole picture right off of the monitor.

So, combining bismuth and powdered iron may not be a bad idea because, some and certain complex magnetic fields are literally stronger, projected farther and have more energy bound too them even though the surface magnetization may be only 2000 gauss.  If that's the same when you are standing 3 feet away, the energy is not so heavily bound to the metal itself.  So, complex magnetic fields help certain magnets like Alinco, which is Aluminum Nickel and Iron or Cobalt.  But, that's not like Chrome Bismuth Ferrite, or Nickel Bismuth Iron.  I don't see where any of these mixtures have been tested.  No-body wants to because, bismuth has a very low melting point and can be very flammable.  If you can find the chemical equation for bismuth when it burns, then you can look at finding a powdered form of spent or already burned bismuth powder and it will never be flammable.  It might be an oxide.

elgersmad

The first thing I tried after making some bismuth toroids is making JTs with them ....... I tried several variations mostly with quite a few windings.....

I did not try mixing black iron oxide and bismuth  because I did not get anything out of bismuth that I thought was worth exploring more.

My black iron/epoxy did not prove useful either....... for a JT at least.
I am pretty sure it could be made to work but I was looking for something that could be used with a reasonable number of primary turns.......

As far as testing it properly......no signal generator , no scope, no training.

I just experiment.



gary

[elgersmad]

There are free books online in the PDF format that cover electronics.  I downloaded several myself and I went to college and took electronics.  Even at this point I still review, brush up and try to break off the rust, any time I notice it.  Most of it is just plain algebra, and 99% of time you'd be relying on a calculator which makes it so easy that it's practically cheating compared to taking algebra.  Memorizing equations is more important.  MOSFETs and Transistors are on the top of the list if you're into power applications.

Without formal training, it's really hard to think of anyone actually inventing an over unity device.  At this point, I'm thinking that if you gave the toroid to some-one TV repair shop and told them what it was made of, you might learn allot more about what was really different about it, than trying to build an over unity circuit when most attempts are failures to begin with.

Another suggestion, is to go to any place that they repair electronic equipment TV repair shop, Refrigerator Repair, Music Instrument Sales and Repair places.  Buy the repair coffee, or ask for an interview and just make friends and explain your interest in Over Unity.  Maybe, he can help you and you can help him and there can be a kind of sorcerer apprentice relationship there.

Debugging and explaining why these devices don't work is just as important as finding the needles in the haystacks and those few that may or might.  If you ask an engineer, a parallel resonant tank circuit shows more promise.  But, in detail and in nearly every situation, the energy is just stored between the inductor and the capacitor at resonance.  I did find a way around that.  You start in series resonance with a plasma bulb where it would replace a piece of wire to make a parallel resonant circuit.  If the resonant frequency is above 100KHz, a point at which plasmas never cool off and if it were florescent would actually stay on without blinking 120 times a second, the plasma can get hot enough to conduct as well as a piece of copper wire.  So, the florescent bulb would then change modes and all of the energy in parallel tank circuit would flow through the bulb.  After that it's just Q, and Q tends to be higher at higher frequencies in regard to coils.  So, a doorknob capacitor and water pipe coil would produce more light energy, and up to 1000 times more than energy in.  100 milliwatts = 100 Watts of light.

I know that a YouTube web show like Duck Busters, the over unity debuggers, isn't really Mythbusters.  But, when you consider how many quacks are trying sell garbage for gold, Duck Busters sounds allot better.