PLEASE REPLICATE THIS !!!

[DeepCut]

Sorry for the caps, but it's important.

Some of you will know about it so please excuse repeated info.

I have been replicating this guys stuff since April, my version is much cruder but i am getting promising results.

We have been in e-mail contact. He is now powering a 4-Watt fluorescent tube with a single 1.5 AA battery.

He is a 70-year old retired commercial aircraft engineer so his knowledge spans decades of tech development.

My crappy version of his was getting an apparent COP of 141% (I know TK, i know but you should see his).

My power measurement skils are bad but i was using a resistor as a load, when i tried to self-run it blew the tranny (oo-er).

I've been advised to use a voltage regulator but then i'd lose 1.5 watts.

Anyway ...


Here's his utube :

http://www.youtube.com/user/64298#p/u

Here's his ou.com thread :

http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=9076.0

Gary.

[gyulasun]

Hi Gary,

I would suggest First try to rebuild your same setup as it worked just before the transistor blew when you tried to loop directly the output back to the input.

Then If you could make some taps on your big output coil so that you could access to lower output voltages too, then you could have an output voltage much closer to 18V. I mean for instance to get 21-22V DC only from the coil tap(s)  so that the power dissipation could be much less (way less) than the 1.5W.  For instance if you had a 21V DC voltage output across the diode bridge output (I do not know if you use a puffer capacitor there or not, it would be good if you did) when you load it with 0.15A or whatever input current your setup needs at 18V DC input, so this way the voltage difference were only 3V (21-18)  hence the power loss in the TS317 (or a 7818) would be only 3*0.15=0.45W much less than the 1.5W previously calculated. 
So if the input power is the same like before, it is 18*0.15=2.7W
Loss in the stabilizer would be 0.45W
Adding this loss to the input power you get 2.7+0.45=3.15W
IF your setup would be able to give out about this 3.15W  (say 3.2-3.3W due to the loss in the diode bridge) then the looping would be a success because earlier you had about 3.8W output in the 220 Ohm resistor, you would be within the ballpark...   Now your only load would be the voltage stabilizer, its 18V output looped back to your circuit input, no need for any resistor load.

So go ahead and reconstruct your setup from the ashes...

Gyula

[TinselKoala]

@DC:
At least you didn't put "1.41327532" ...



I'm always interested in simple pulse power circuits. It's my personal feeling that the "interesting effects" we are seeking...you know the ones... are most likely gonna happen at "high pressures and frequencies", most likely resulting either from extremely strong static electrical fields (DC), extremely high frequency RF or material vibrations (AC), or...my favorite.... very rapid risetime disruptive discharges, as produced by dumping a big cap as rapidly as possible into a small inductance which is tightly coupled to a perfectly tuned quarter-wave resonator.

If you can find out the part number of the mosfets in your little PWM unit, I suggest ordering a handful of spares from one of the mailorder component houses like DigiKey or Mouser or Farnell.
ETA: oops wrong thread, but you know what I mean...

You can't be too rich or too thin, or have too many spare mosfets.


By the way, those little neons are pretty neat, and frequently misunderstood as well. They've got high resistance when "off" but when they do come on the resistance drops abruptly, and if you don't have some current limiting ( or limited charge) they will draw as much current as you let them. Take an NE-2 and just stick it into a 20-amp wall socket sometime...but be wearing gloves and safety glasses when you do, because it will likely explode. On the other hand, once the neon is lit, if the current is properly limited it may only take a few milliamps to keep it lit.
Another neat thing is that only the negatively charged electrode actually has the glowing plasma around it. With an AC powered NE-2 style lamp it looks like both glow--but really they are alternating, blinking on and off.

[TinselKoala]

I am worried that your transistor may be damaged by the high voltage spikes that your circuit likely is producing, and that won't be showing up on your meters because they are too fast.
There is a simple way to determine the approximate maximum voltage in DC spikes, using a suitable diode and capacitor, and monitoring the voltage reached on the cap as it is charged by the spike energy. If you are flashing neons you are certainly getting at least 90-100 volts in spikes; what's the Vce rating of your transistor?

[DeepCut]

It's nearly 4am here i can't sleep my mind is full of coils and pulses and i've been reading Tesla - Prodigal Genius and Lenz' Law is pissing me off and i'm wondering how Tom lights a 4-watt bulb with a 1.5v battery. And i can't sleep !

Thanks Gyula, i will do that.

TK, thanks for the knowledge shower.

I'm getting some TIP3055's tomorrow rather than the metal ase ones i had before, Vc is 70 :

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=19066&OrderCode=QH56L


*EDIT ADD*

My neon isn't an NE2, it's this one :

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=1952


Cheers,

Gary.