The Gabriel Device, possible COP=8

[Mavendex]

Hello Mavendex
As a test you can calculate the value of a capacitor and put it in parallel with the coil. The reactance of the capacitor should remove the reactive power drain portion of the total power measured by the "Kill-O-Watt" meter.

Calculating the value of the capacitor:
Measure the voltage drop across the toaster. Measure the current in the circuit. Calculate power used by toaster P=IV. Subtract the toaster power (P) from the power (S) measured by the "Kill-O-Watt" meter. Whats left is the reactive power (Q) drawn by the coil from the power supply. BTW cosÓ¨ = P/S (Power factor of the circuit )

The reactance (Xc) of the required capacitor is
Xc = V²/Q   V = mains power voltage

C = 1/(ωXc) where ω = 2πf (f = frequency of mains) This should give you an approximate value for a capacitor to try.

Now when you draw power from the second "Kill-O-Watt" meter, the first meter should indicate an increase in power consumption. If it does not then you have a possibility of an over unity device.

I'm sure this is a great method but unfortunately I don't speak formula very well. When we get this finished this week and Ill run some tests to see if I can replicate it myself then mabeyewe can all get in to skype mode and you can walk me thru it.

Mav

[Montec]

Hello Feynman

After the toaster warms up the current should stabilize.  Use a DMM to measure the voltage drop across the toaster. The toaster should be a pure resistive load so the real power it uses is in watts. The same current flows though both the coil and toaster but the phase between current and voltage is not the same when measured across the toaster and across the coil.  The coil lags the toaster by 90°. ie The current stays constant in a series circuit but the voltage waveform moves by 90° when the voltage drop across the toaster is compared to the voltage drop across the coil by an oscilloscope.

The current can be calculated by putting in a know value of resistor in the circuit and measuring the voltage drop across it. Or just use a current meter in the "Kill-O-Watt" device. A clamp on current meter would also work.

So here you would use the E value calculated previously for the voltage drop for V, and you would use the current you measured previously for I just for just the powered-on toaster in isolation?

No, use the current from an operating toaster and coil circuit.

Okay.  What material capacitor is preferable?

Material does not matter just be sure that the capacitor can handle the voltage.

Okay that's a PI value not an 'n' just to clarify for the record.

Yes 2"pi"f was the intended meaning.

[e2matrix]

Mavendex,  Regarding the wire guage size question I can tell you what is required by house wiring codes and for safety.  That doesn't mean it wouldn't work with less but it is a good guideline when it gets down to powering real loads.  For a 20 amp circuit 12 guage wire is required.  For 15 amp circuits 14 guage is generally required.  Those assume 120 volts.  Most houses could actually run if they had a continuous 2400 watt source (20 Amps x 120 volts =2400 watts).  That kind of power would if charging a battery bank into a large inverter could cover most usage other than 230 volt devices like stoves and HVAC.  If one had several Gabriel devices or one large one it could easily power a home if this all works out.  Fingers crossed

[kampen]

@ e2matrix,

Can You please calculate (AWG) and show us also for 220/230 VAC/50Hz (European household)
Section fuse is 15 to 20A rated. Main fuse is 35A rated.

[e2matrix]

@ e2matrix,

Can You please calculate (AWG) and show us also for 220/230 VAC/50Hz (European household)
Section fuse is 15 to 20A rated. Main fuse is 35A rated.

kampen,  I knew the values for U.S. houses because I studied the electrical codes when I wired my own house.  I would have to Google to see what they would be in Europe.  I wouldn't want to tell you something wrong on that so I'd suggest you Google something like 'house wiring guage' +building codes for your particular country.  It shouldn't be too hard to find all the commonly used wire guage sizes used in homes.  I do know because it is higher voltage that they can get away with smaller wire size than you need for 120 volt.