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Overunity Machines Forum



Hydro Differential pressure exchange over unity system.

Started by mrwayne, April 10, 2011, 04:07:24 AM

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0 Members and 159 Guests are viewing this topic.

TinselKoala

Quote from: MT on September 06, 2012, 08:10:52 AM
Hi,
I showed this to my colleagues.

Marcel
So the Zeds aren't "transitive" then? Are the two Zeds different, so you couldn't take the one on the right and put it where the one on the left is?

Because if A=B in the first Zed,  and D is cycled around between the Zeds..... then why doesn't C =B as well...... that is, C must equal A. So if C+D = A.... then therefore.... D = 0.
If the two Zeds are the same, and a cycle is being performed, it seems to me that this must be true.

TinselKoala

Quote from: mondrasek on September 06, 2012, 05:34:10 PM

That statement alone has had me smiling every time I've had a chance to think about it since I read it yesterday!  It is completely fitting for an OU device to have an LED in it somewhere, right?  Good stuff.  And thanks!

What would you propose that could fit inside the Pod that could be turned on externally, sealed, etc?  I was thinking a surface mount LED with a tiny JT and battery on a board that could fit through the 1/4" hole in the bottom of my Pod (before sealing).  But how to turn it on and off?

You KNOW we can't use wireless power transmission for reasons you have shown in other threads!

This idea is completely off topic, but hilarious (to me at least)!  So I'd like to see a mock up or concept description of what a Koala would do.

M.
I'd use some low-power cmos chip logic and a photodiode to make a switch that could be actuated by a laser pointer from outside. In the LED-off state, the power consumption could be made quite low, microwatts probably. I'd install a gastight port big enough to get the thing into wherever it belongs in the first place, rather than stuffing it through a quarter inch hole. But if that were really a design criterion, it could still be done with a long skinny PCB and SMDs and button cells. Koalas prefer DIPs, though.

But another idea that may even be better is to illuminate from below, through a clear base. Then you don't need to put anything in your pod, just position your bright LEDs below the structure to illuminate your desired areas, like your line gauges and your menisci.

And for those who are using tubes with a substantial wall thickness, you could try edge-illumination. If you shine the LED into the edge of the plastic, sometimes internal reflections will result in the whole piece glowing gently in the color of the LED.

ETA: Personally, I would have no objection to the use of my wireless power transfer system to illuminate a clear plastic Zed system from within. Unless of course you can make water climb walls with an 800kHz alternating magnetic field.

see3d

Quote from: wildew on September 06, 2012, 07:38:55 PM
See3d's piston that can be better controlled is more in line with Wayne's bag system but I'm at a bit of a loss trying to come up with a garage / shop solution. It does need to be measurable and that's making me think harder. Ideas?

Dale
I show a piston because it is easier to understand the exact mathematical relationships for a simulation.  However, it is really supposed to be modeling the bags, which can be compressed without the friction loss of a piston seal. 

OTOH, just raising a big fat water bucket to different heights with a siphon tube going into the bottom is too easy to ignore.  It may or may not be the final configuration you want, depending on your goals, but for first time measurements to prove out the best operating point, it just does not get any easier than that.

fletcher

Quote from: see3d on September 06, 2012, 08:31:55 PM

I show a piston because it is easier to understand the exact mathematical relationships for a simulation.  However, it is really supposed to be modeling the bags, which can be compressed without the friction loss of a piston seal. 

OTOH, just raising a big fat water bucket to different heights with a siphon tube going into the bottom is too easy to ignore.  It may or may not be the final configuration you want, depending on your goals, but for first time measurements to prove out the best operating point, it just does not get any easier than that.


The ideal is to inject fluid at the level just beneath the pod chamber IINM - in the sim the piston is pushing with a large head on it because it looks like there is plenty of volume to spare, IINM - the important bit is that enough volume must be transferred  to raise the water level up the sides & any more work than that is not required.

The lower in a tank you try to inject fluid the harder it is because of the pressure at your entry point [pgh] - think of it this way - if I have a tank of water & I puncture it at the top, middle & bottom of the sides the water will stream out horizontally a distance proportional to pgh which is depth, not mass or volume.

So ideally an injection point just below the pod riser has least resistance [force] to the force [work done] you provide to do that.

This is why some members have been asking WHERE are the entry & exit points.

P.S. the bag is a piston of another variety.

see3d

Quote from: fletcher on September 06, 2012, 09:19:37 PM
...in the sim the piston is pushing with a large head on it because it looks like there is plenty of volume to spare, IINM - the important bit is that enough volume must be transferred  to raise the water level up the sides & any more work than that is not required...
In the sim, the volume of water is a calculated geometry to be just enough to fill the Pod chamber to the top with the stroke at the top.  No water was harmed or wasted in the construction of this sim... LOL

Because all the water is counterbalanced in the sim, the total amount of water becomes irrelevant as far as input pressure goes.  100% of the input pressure gets transferred into the Pod head. 

A "U" shaped tube going into the bottom of the pod water chamber will always balance out with the water in the pod head.  Which also makes it easy to measure the pod water level from outside the ZED.  Just pour water into the outside "U" tube until it reaches the desired water level inside.  A drain at the bottom of the tube would let you lower the water level inside.

However, I thought it would be easier to just raise and lower a bucket (or glass) of water to the level you wanted to have the water head inside.  You don't even have to put a hole in the bottom.  :-)