Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells

[NickZ]

    Guys:
   As far as charging capacitors from these cells, I have tried that by placing the capacitor in parallel with the cells. I did not really notice anything worth mentioning. As the regular electrolytic capacitors don't maintain a charge for long once connected to a circuit or an led.
   I've also tried connecting the cells to rechargeable AA batteries as well as lithium button cells. The cells will charge a battery that previously would not light a joule thief any more, or register any voltage, on my analog meter. The AA battery will charge to the same voltage and current level that the cells output. But, the best way to do this, is to to have several cells in series, so that you are charging with two or three times the voltage of the battery that you want to charge. The problem is that there is hardly any current output from these cells, until now, so, Ib, try it now with your Blue cell and see what happens, as it does show some 400 mA or so. and it might work fine to charge a battery, or capacitor. Two or three of those cells connected in series would be better though, as that way you can light an led.  I do not remove the capacitor from the connected cells to test the output, but leave it on instead, but you can try it both ways.
 
   Below is a picture of my new Brass/Aluminum table salt glue cell. Looks like a hot dog on a stick. It is fairly dry now, and has stopped sweating water out. I'll place another coat of glue over it in a few more days. 
  I'll try to make a video soon, if my camara battery holds out, as it has bulged and is not working as it should.
  I want to show you guys how a ONE WIRE connection from my cement cells to an led/transistor combination will light an led. This is to show that these cells do work by taking in charge from the air, and can be more than just galvanic.   I think this is similar the Dr. Stifflers no input circuit, that will light some light leds using no additional input. Power out of thin air!
I am still working on making the leds light up even stronger.

[b_rads]

*Note* joule thief wrecked the batteries. something went wrong. had to add the wet cell i had to rebuild the voltage. total voltage now is 3.7 volts resting. when running the led it settles at 2.6-2.62 volts. I have no idea what went wrong but the joule thief didn't work to well the way i set it up. I had it shorting out the battery and the led was across the collector and emitter. when I ran it before i had it hooked up the right way that joule thiefs run at and it ran ok but I tried the non standard way and it ate some of the cells voltage. I'm back to running plain Jane and it is holding up.

I have worked with Ib’s “Glue” and “Stove Top Crystal Cells” for a while now and am a believer in this setup.  Ib is correct in stating that these cells should dump their power into a cap.  I have replicated Lidmotor’s “Penny Joule Thief” and the “Pancake Coil Steel Wire Joule Thief”.  Both of these circuits dump the power into the cap prior to running the circuit.  See this video of the Pancake circuit and a fully encased glue cell.  Encasing the cell is an idea presented by NickZ and has worked extremely well for me.  This video was posted on Aug 3 and the cell is still fully functional.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWgmaHcPblw
This next video shows Ib’s stove top crystal cell encased in plastic working on the Penny Circuit and this was posted on Sept 20.  This cell has been powering the circuit non-stop since.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhmQBpUld7U
This last video was posted more for fun than anything else, but does show the remarkably small amount of power required to run this circuit.  Notice when I connect the circuit, the cap must fill before the circuit will start.  If the cap runs to low on power, the circuit will stop and wait for enough power to start again.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2-OHF1iCsI
If you can match the cell to the circuit, these cells seemingly will run for a very long time.  Since replicating these cells and powering those circuits, I have yet to have one fail.  Go to lidmotor’s youtube channel and he gives you the schematic for both circuits.
Brad S

[jbignes5]

 Let me ask a very good question??? Why don't we piggy back this onto a rechargeable cell. That way when it is not in use it can maintain the battery charge level when not in use!!! Yeah it won't charge like a regular setup but it will charge the battery like in the Bedini style. We could deign this in thin film style and just wrap it around a rechargeable battery with clips designed to attach to each end without interfering with normal battery usage.

Oh another thought. Has anyone tried to make it like the electrolytic ones? I saw Bedini doing a copper/copper oxide/paper insulator/galena/magnesium dual gate diode. Why not do it on thin sheets of the metals treated to have very nice layers of copper oxide and galena then roll it up with toilet paper in between. The only problem is what to use as the solvent doping. Water and something else (alum? or Borax?).

Hey Nick in your carbon aluminum and quartz battery have you ever mixed a batch of quarts and carbon? You should mill it in an oxidized aluminum bowl. you might want to add some oxidized aluminum powder as well. It will grind that carbon soo fine in powder size. The alumina oxides are what they use for polishing and cutting tools. Mixing the quartz in there evenly would be the best thing to try. Compress it and it should fly, try it but I'm not sure about compression.

"Aluminium oxide is widely used in the fabrication of superconducting devices, particularly single electron transistors and superconducting quantum interference devices (SQUID), where it is used to form highly resistive quantum tunneling barriers."

Whats your process in layering the carbon and quarts? Could you make a side view cutaway of the cap case you use and the layers and how they are done?

[ibpointless2]

I have worked with Ib’s “Glue” and “Stove Top Crystal Cells” for a while now and am a believer in this setup.  Ib is correct in stating that these cells should dump their power into a cap.  I have replicated Lidmotor’s “Penny Joule Thief” and the “Pancake Coil Steel Wire Joule Thief”.  Both of these circuits dump the power into the cap prior to running the circuit.  See this video of the Pancake circuit and a fully encased glue cell.  Encasing the cell is an idea presented by NickZ and has worked extremely well for me.  This video was posted on Aug 3 and the cell is still fully functional.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWgmaHcPblw
This next video shows Ib’s stove top crystal cell encased in plastic working on the Penny Circuit and this was posted on Sept 20.  This cell has been powering the circuit non-stop since.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhmQBpUld7U
This last video was posted more for fun than anything else, but does show the remarkably small amount of power required to run this circuit.  Notice when I connect the circuit, the cap must fill before the circuit will start.  If the cap runs to low on power, the circuit will stop and wait for enough power to start again.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2-OHF1iCsI
If you can match the cell to the circuit, these cells seemingly will run for a very long time.  Since replicating these cells and powering those circuits, I have yet to have one fail.  Go to lidmotor’s youtube channel and he gives you the schematic for both circuits.
Brad S

Thank you Brads, glad to see the cells still work for you and thank you for taking the time to make them.

[NickZ]

  @ All:
   I have tried the method mentioned by Brad of placing the capacitor in parallel with the cell and the Jtc.  I did not really notice any difference, but my circuits don't blink, they are on steady. I don't see any point in a blinking light, and wonder why that type circuits causes the led to blink, I suppose that is it due to their very low current output, of only a few mA. My Hartley circuits will run like that forever, when using a dead AA battery.
  The circuit being shown by John and Chuck lighting 8 leds gives some hope that it is possible to achieve some usable light, even when using only one cell.   If Ib's Blue cell is connected in the same way it should work even better, as it has twice the current output.
John's circuit is going from 250 mA to only 7 mA under load, less than 1/10 starting voltage, then goes up to 22 mA. and maintains. Still less than 1/10 of the starting output level. So, he is not following his own advice of only drawing 1/2 of the starting current.  Although I'm glad to see it, the question is will the cell maintain at those levels, or not?  Time will tell, as the draw from 8 leds,  is not the same as the draw from only one led.  They are not full brightness in any case, and if the pot was on least resistance we'd probably see the lights go out after a minute or so.  But, don't get me wrong, that is the best we've seen yet, but I feel that we still have a long ways to go...