Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells

[jbignes5]

 @nick and IB.


Keep going with your back and forth on Energetic forum. You are figuring it out little by little. I too agree that these crystal batteries are very akin to the captret. Work this out and you will know what to do from then on. I can't join you on that forum but it is very interesting and I'm following the conversation pretty good.


This is what me and IB did. We discussed the reasons for the captret effect. When we started using the can as the neg connector we found we could slipstream some power off. I'm thinking it is because of the diode like effect in it. It is a polarized device. The neg plate should be less polarized or even neutral of a conductor. It's ambient state is and average of the environment it is in electrically. The positive is the driving force in the polarized electrolytic cap. The captret allowed an led or sometimes banks of leds to run for very little current. The batteries I used were old dead 7 AH batteries with a standing voltage of 9.7 volts. My test of the slipstream effect was to use the connections exactly the way they were marked on the cap. the neg was attached to the can and only the positive was connected to the positive of the cap. The load then went to the positive and negative respectfully on the capacitor. Electrolysis happened on the end of the can and grew it's own oxide layer on the bottom of the can. I have since found out that when this electrolysis happens it ruins the effect. I thought having nano particles of aluminum would help the conduction paths and it doesn't it ruins the effect of the crystal cell!


This is why the captrets failed after a few powerful tries. It is why they burst. It eats it's way to the cuts in the end of the can and it blows prematurely. All the while that the nano particles of aluminum are starting to short out the effect we are looking for. The electrolysis is the reason for the failure of the captret to maintain it's power splitting ability or induced flow cycle. If we prevent electrolysis and galvanic response then we have the perfect source.
Of course in my opinion we should just use the oxidation layer. Yes it eats a portion of the metal but when the crust is formed it seems stronger. Please understand what this device is about. It's crystallized, it has a pyramidal shape with the biggest area of it's mass is attached to the metal. This diverts all incoming flows 90 degrees in a dissipating radius. Of course there will be movement across that face. Interference patterns would be extremely easy to simulate in today's computers. Growth of these layers needs to be honed and practiced. We are bumbling through this process like a bull in a china store. It doesn't block current it diverts it away from the metal and it induces a flow in the process...

[NickZ]

   Guys:
   Ok, I finally bought another volt meter but could not find the right analog one, lilke the one I had, so I bought a small digital one. At least I'll be able to report some voltages again.
   One good thing that I could read from my new meter was that my big capacitor cell using beach sand and cement that I made almost a year ago, is still at  over a volt, and 22 mA, it holds steady at 10 mA after 10 seconds or so.  And compared to the hot dog cell which is giving 0.506 volts, but, 58mA, and holds at 33mA after 10 seconds. Two totally different cells, together they give 1.5 volts. but only the lowest cells mA reading at 10mA.  One cell is good at current output, and the other is ok at voltage.
It's very important to match the cells, otherwise you end up with the lowest cells current levels, just like if it were a pinched hose.
                                       NickZ

[jbignes5]

   Guys:
   Ok, I finally bought another volt meter but could not find the right analog one, lilke the one I had, so I bought a small digital one. At least I'll be able to report some voltages again.
   One good thing that I could read from my new meter was that my big capacitor cell using beach sand and cement that I made almost a year ago, is still at  over a volt, and 22 mA, it holds steady at 10 mA after 10 seconds or so.  And compared to the hot dog cell which is giving 0.506 volts, but, 58mA, and holds at 33mA after 10 seconds. Two totally different cells, together they give 1.5 volts. but only the lowest cells mA reading at 10mA.  One cell is good at current output, and the other is ok at voltage.
It's very important to match the cells, otherwise you end up with the lowest cells current levels, just like if it were a pinched hose.
                                       NickZ

Yes and I'm starting to believe the pinch is the cause for electrolysis if water is present and galvanics as well..

[NickZ]

  I could be wrong but it seams that if there is no air, like in a totally sealed cell, there can't be an electrolysis reaction. This needs to be confirmed.
   I'm still working  with the Carbon/Quarts cells.  I find that with just a small piece or plain beach wood carbon, and a small piece of aluminum I can generate about one volt of power.  If I use a carbon rod as the anode, sometimes 1.2 volts,  and without the carbon rod I can get about 0.770 volts with Just two things, the Aluminum and Carbon, ONLY.  No additional electrolyte, no salts,  No Water, and no oxidation.
  With a better and more conducive grade of carbon and pure magnesium, I'm sure that cell voltages of 1.5 volts or higher can be easily obtained, possibly for a very long time. The cell size would determines the current levels, but even small to tiny dry Carbon/Quartz Aluminum/ cells can produce good voltage levels.  Anyways, that's what I'm working on...
   Any ideas such as which carbon may be the best to use for the cells, are welcome.
 

[ibpointless2]

@nickz


"I could be wrong but it seams that if there is no air, like in a totally sealed cell, there can't be an electrolysis reaction.[/size] "[/size]


I thought the same thing too, but I don't fully understand it either. I know that a lead acid battery gets its voltage from the making of H2O, and when you charge the battery you're splitting the the H2O up. A battery is nothing more than a Hydrogen Fuel cell, where it combines with oxygen to make electricity and water. When you supply power to recharge a battery it creates electrolysis where it splits the water up and when you need power they come back together to make water and electricity. When you have too much water you don't have enough acid(ions) thus you battery dies until you charge it again.




For your cell i know you use aluminum and carbon as the electrode, but what is the electrolyte? Is it just burnt wood from the beach? beach sand? I've tried charcoal briquettes but i only get 3 milli-volts at the most unless i put water on it then i get about 700mV.