Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[Hoppy]

   I wouldn't count on a complete instructional tuning video happening, at least not from one of us. As no one has been able to
obtain any increase in output, over the input source used. To show how it's supposed to work.
But, it would be good to compare notes between the guys that have built up their versions of this device.

  We already have been given the coil winding directions and sizes of the different coils, including the Kacher secondary.  We just may not know how to tune the three different circuits to work together for any "extra energy" to be observed at the bulbs.

I don't see a video as being needed, just detailed stage by stage tuning instruction. Yes, we do have good details on coil winding, phasing and lengths for suggested wavelengths. The first important milestone is to achieve correct synchronisation of the waveforms. Getting any extra energy out and proving it by measurement is the end of the journey

[NickZ]

   Or, more like the real beginning of our journey.
 
   I've got my WIMA caps on and installed now, and I've got the new scope probes compensated for, and working well.
   
   I'll probably have to add some turns to my Kacher secondary to bring it down to about 2.4Mhz.
   Although there is a small increase from the output at the bulbs when the Kacher circuit is also turn on now, but not really anything like what Ruslan is showing in his videos, yet.  But, I don't really see any big improvement at output from using the expensive WIMA caps, so far.  However, I also need to tune the 3 turns coil/induction circuit now, also.  It needs to sync with what? The 2.4Mhz Kacher frequency at 100:1 (24khz), like my fets are running at. Or what?  I'm still confused...

[Dog-One]

However, I also need to tune the 3 turns coil/induction circuit now, also.  It needs to sync with what? The 2.4Mhz Kacher frequency at 100:1 (24khz), like my fets are running at. Or what?  I'm still confused...

Don't feel alone on this one.  I've been struggling for weeks trying to calculate where the 1:100 ratio comes from and still no joy.

There's a link a few messages back from T-1000 that touches on the standing waves and the long ground used on the Tesla Tower.  It specifically states:

In other words, the Tower represents current buffer - isolated capacity inside of which reference power generator "brings" charge from the ground.

So if this accurate, I think it's a safe bet Tesla knew how to do this and was able to calculate the most practical means of his time to accomplish it.  This Ruslan device doesn't have a 30 meter tower, but somehow the same principal must still apply.  We just need to stumble upon the formulas we can apply to the Ruslan device and presto/change-o we should be able to see exactly what is needed.

With my setup I know exactly the coil lengths, the frequencies I think it should run at, plus I'm burst pulsing the Tesla coil.  There's also a good solid tuned sine wave on the induction heater coil.  Yet, I still haven't seen any magical power amplification, so I know I'm missing something and right now that seems to all focus around the mysterious 1:100 ratio.  Either that or I'm a full quarter-wave off, which would put the standing wave nodes in the wrong place.  The only good news I can share is that nothing blows up when I disconnect the ground wire, not a big surprise though since it doesn't appear to be doing anything.

[itsu]

   Or, more like the real beginning of our journey.
 
   I've got my WIMA caps on and installed now, and I've got the new scope probes compensated for, and working well.
   
   I'll probably have to add some turns to my Kacher secondary to bring it down to about 2.4Mhz.
   Although there is a small increase from the output at the bulbs when the Kacher circuit is also turn on now, but not really anything like what Ruslan is showing in his videos, yet.  But, I don't really see any big improvement at output from using the expensive WIMA caps, so far.  However, I also need to tune the 3 turns coil/induction circuit now, also.  It needs to sync with what? The 2.4Mhz Kacher frequency at 100:1 (24khz), like my fets are running at. Or what?  I'm still confused...

Nick basically,  yes.


if you have the kacher and grenade coil synced at a certain frequency, say 2.4Mhz, then you have to determine what relationship you want with
the inductor coil, 1:100, 1:60 or 1:50 or.....

If you go for 1:100, then you need to set the combo (wima caps, inductor coil and 3 turn coil) to 100th of 2.4Mhz is 24Khz resonance frequency
You do that be adding (wima) caps (parallel or in series) with the inductor coil.
You can monitor the wima cap and / or the inductor coil with your scope to see when it resonates (pure sine wave)

As you are driving this combo with your mazilla, you will have to tune the mazilla to be in resonance with the needed 24Khz of the combo.

I think it would be best to use a signal generator and determine / set the resonance frequency of the combo to the 24Khz, then set/tune your
mazilla to that same frequency.


Once the mazilla and the combo are in resonance (be aware, voltages could be high) on 100th of the kacher / grenade frequency you should see some light.

Thats how i understand it.

Regards Itsu

[Dog-One]

If you go for 1:100, then you need to set the combo (wima caps, inductor coil and 3 turn coil) to 100th of 2.4Mhz is 24Khz resonance frequency
You do that be adding (wima) caps (parallel or in series) with the inductor coil.
You can monitor the wima cap and / or the inductor coil with your scope to see when it resonates (pure sine wave)

Yes Nick, Itsu is correct here.  When you get this right, the screwdriver test of the induction heater coil will confirm it.  It will only take a second or two for the screwdriver to get quite hot depending upon how much power is going into your Mazzilli.  Use a fairly thin shaft screwdriver though, because a thick shaft one will alter the inductance of the coil quite a bit and knock your tuning out of whack.  With a current probe on one leg of the induction heater coil, you will be able to see what is happening on the scope.  The induction heater coil carries a lot of amperage so make sure your connections are solid.