Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[NickZ]

   On a separate note:
   I just wanted to bring to the discussion table, a video made by Lyxnsteam, showing the lighting of 12  110v,  7.5watt, AC Led bulbs, using only 1.7 watts, from a solar system charging a 12v battery.
He is using the Lasersaber 3.0 Joule Ringer circuit, that I also use, but has doubled up on the 2n3055 transistors for a 150 watt output capabilities.  No overunity,  but, a very efficient conversion process, that will light ones house.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dK0JGUMZ7ZM&feature=youtu.be

[T-1000]

@NickZ
You can also read about coil shorting in Patrick Kelly (now retired from FE) book http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/VladimirUtkin.pdf
Please check on last chapters involving coil shorting over capacitor. That looks as very close explanation to what I was trying explain here with quarter wave paralel resonance + resonance in series... I am still looking for most appropiate explanation so everyone could read about it like from book in school.

Good luck with your quest on actual device!

[NickZ]

     @ T-1000:
      Thanks, I'll check the link when I get some time today. 
     I really would also like to see an actual working device showing a self runner with no input source, that would operated as you are mentioning. As most of us are still converting low voltage to higher voltage and lower currents, but not using the proper approach, to see huge output from magnetic energy conversion, to cold electricity, non-shocking electrical outputs.

                NickZ
                                     

[Void]

  It is still interesting to note that Akula did use a flyback in his previous devices, then went on to show the last two devices, that don't need to use it. And the spark coming off of his newest video's ferrite rod, barely shows a spark, which is somewhat surprising (at least to me) that it does not shock, at at. My device shocks the living s**t out of me!   So, that clues me in to that there is something else going on in the working devices. Or not?
  If there is a Real McCoy out there, as Akula mentioned, would only get dirt thrown on it, as well as on the builder. Good thing that he doesn't care enough about that, to stop him from showing his work. Maybe it's that he needs us. But, I doubt it.
  If I can't get it working right, I'll keep trying, to the last consequences. I expect it to be difficult, but not impossible.
  Nothing is impossible.

When you say non shocking, do you mean because he could hold the padlock in his hand close to the ferrite rod and draw sparks and not get a shock? If so, that is not unusual. How much you may feel shocks depends on the frequency and current capability. If you draw arcs right to your finger you may well feel shocks, but if you hold a piece of metal in your hand and draw sparks to the metal you may feel nothing at all if the frequency is above 10 kHz or so and the current capability is fairly low. If your joule ringer circuit is running below 10 kHz, any shocks you get from the circuit would more likely be uncomfortable, and if you touch a point that has high current capability you could get a nasty shock. So shocking depends on where you are touching, frequency, and current capability of the point you are touching, and of course how high the voltage is as well. The tiny arcs that Akula was drawing to the padlock seemed to be not of a very high voltage and not a very high current.

[Void]

  I actually was able to light the bulb nearly as bright when using a 12v, 500mA source, but since (due to my negligence) I shorted that charger out,  I'm now using a 12v, 7aH battery, or a 12v, 1.400 watt wall adapter.
As the circuit (LS 3.0) is made to feed-back to the battery negative or positive terminal, or to the charger, the charger does get hot, and can burn out. Although the battery will take a HV charge, but somehow it still will discharge in time, as it doesn't seam to get the charging CURRENT needed to maintain it. As mentioned, I have not tuned anything yet. And will work on rectifying the HF to charge the battery,  or, self run,  in time.
First I'm into seeing some results from a small input, to obtaining a big output, therefrom. Even in a small way, for now.

If you are using a wall adaptor or battery charger, they can get hot if you try to draw more current from them than they are designed to supply, especially the wall adaptor since many have no current limiting. If you try to draw several amps from a wall adaptor that is only designed to provide milliamps, it will certainly get very hot and may well fail before too long. You would only know what current the charger or adaptor or battery is supplying to the joule ringer circuit by measuring it with a current meter.