Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[Void]

Yes, remember this SR replication being discussed in the past in the big Kapanadze thread.
It has two spark gaps, a slotted brass tube and works without a ground wire.

Thanks.

[verpies]

In selfrunning Tk's thread many of them told in this device will not work its totally fake. What's your opininon?

Indeterminate without isolation and scopeshots.

[NickZ]

  It is still interesting to note that Akula did use a flyback in his previous devices, then went on to show the last two devices, that don't need to use it. And the spark coming off of his newest video's ferrite rod, barely shows a spark, which is somewhat surprising (at least to me) that it does not shock, at at. My device shocks the living s**t out of me!   So, that clues me in to that there is something else going on in the working devices. Or not?
  If there is a Real McCoy out there, as Akula mentioned, would only get dirt thrown on it, as well as on the builder. Good thing that he doesn't care enough about that, to stop him from showing his work. Maybe it's that he needs us. But, I doubt it.
  If I can't get it working right, I'll keep trying, to the last consequences. I expect it to be difficult, but not impossible.
  Nothing is impossible.

[MenofFather]

I can light a 60 watt bulb on 9v, and less than 1amp, to about 60% brightness, as is, now with no tuning done on it yet. Pulsed from my Joule Ringer 3.0 circuit, using a 5 inch ferrite rod core, and a  single TIP 3055 transistor, or similar one, with no other component on that pulse circuit. Just a single transistor, ferrite rod coil, which is then connected to the yoke.

60/2=30 wats about. 9x1=9 wats. Maybe you get overunity? You can use UF5408 or UF5404 diodes and make from it bridge rectifer, then paste it one capasitor 400-1000 volts 4-1000 mikrofardas and parallel lamp 60 wats. And check voltage on lamp, capasitor and write here thats voltage. If 120 volts, then good result.

[NickZ]

  I actually was able to light the bulb nearly as bright when using a 12v, 500mA source, but since (due to my negligence) I shorted that charger out,  I'm now using a 12v, 7aH battery, or a 12v, 1.400 watt wall adapter.
As the circuit (LS 3.0) is made to feed-back to the battery negative or positive terminal, or to the charger, the charger does get hot, and can burn out. Although the battery will take a HV charge, but somehow it still will discharge in time, as it doesn't seam to get the charging CURRENT needed to maintain it. As mentioned, I have not tuned anything yet. And will work on rectifying the HF to charge the battery,  or, self run,  in time.
First I'm into seeing some results from a small input, to obtaining a big output, therefrom. Even in a small way, for now.