Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[NickZ]

  Dog, and All:
  First of all, I'm not stuck in a rut, so no need to pull me out. But, thanks anyway.
 
   My Kacher has a variable close to a 1mhz frequency sweep, by simply moving the ferrite inside of the PVC pipe. So, it's secondary coil's output frequency is quite adjustable. Unlike what you and others have mentioned concerning the PWM circuit not being able to do the same thing.  As I don't have a PWM I don't know what it can or can't do, in relation to my Mazilli/yoke/grenade/Kacher device. But, a PWM may still be able to fine tune the Kacher frequency, if the proper size Kacher secondary coil is used,  which may not need much of a frequency adjustment from that PWM board, in the first place.
  What I'd like to know is what the duty cycle control can do towards keeping the Kacher circuit transistor running any cooler than it is doing now.  If anything. I guess that I'll know if I go that route.
   In the tested ranges of of my Kacher between 500khz, to 3.3mhz, I've seen nothing that would indicate a sweet spot. Although it does works better at some frequencies, than at others. The higher frequencies ranges seam to produce less output, compared to the lower 1mhz frequencies.
   Dog, my kacher is not connected to my Earth ground line at the transistor base, as it won't work there, at all. I connect the ground line to the emitter, instead.  So, what feed back are you talking about, that needs to be connected to the transistor base?

   Geo: thanks for posting your video. I hope to see your push-pull oscillator working sometime soon, also.
   I'm wondering why the long Kacher secondary, as I thought you mentioned that you had shortened it, and were still able to get a good output. But, now I see a shorter spark, 3mm maybe, not really a stream any more, instead of your previous 1 centimeter long streamer.  Can you comment on that, please?
  As you can see in one of my videos, I was able to light a 25w and a 50w bulb, on just the Kacher's output, running on a 12v 2.5 amp wall adapter. This would only happen after a kick start from the induction circuit. Once lit, the bulbs would continue being lit, off of just the Kacher's output. The induction circuits could be turned off, and both lights (75 watts worth of bulbs), stayed on, partially, but well lit from just the Kacher's output.

  Void: The main thing about Nelson's device is that it's able to brightly light the incandescent bulb, from just a Kacher's output.
Along with some other components, as well as to self run. That is one the reasons that I pay attention to his work. Besides that I happen to like him, also, and feel that I can trust what he is telling us. Although he can't mention all the details involved.
We have seen his circuits, up close. And he has explained a bit about them, also.
 
   

[Dog-One]

   Dog, my kacher is not connected to my Earth ground line at the transistor base, as it won't work there, at all. I connect the ground line to the emitter, instead.  So, what feed back are you talking about, that needs to be connected to the transistor base?

Attached is a typical high-power Kacher/Slayer circuit.  The driver chip adds extra gain to hard-switch the transistor on and off which makes it run cooler as well as boost the output power.

I can't say I really understand how your Kacher works if it's not very similar to this circuit.  Sounds almost like it is functioning from a ringing effect similar to what Itsu worked so hard to eliminate from his push-pull circuit.

  Void: The main thing about Nelson's device is that it's able to brightly light the incandescent bulb, from just a Kacher's output.
Along with some other components, as well as to self run. That is one the reasons that I pay attention to his work. Besides that I happen to like him, also, and feel that I can trust what he is telling us. Although he can't mention all the details involved.
We have seen his circuits, up close. And he has explained a bit about them, also.

Yes, I think Nelson is way ahead of us.  So far ahead he probably struggles to even communicate with us, being like infants.  His outlook has completely changed I'm sure--I've seen this in others that finally "get it" and build something that works.  It's unfortunate he has to be careful what he reveals, but that's how it goes.  It would be great if he could offer classes teaching us how to get up to his level, but that will likely never happen.  The best he can do is just give us little nudges and hope one of us goes in the right direction.

I really need to go back and look at his posts again.  Maybe I'll see something this time I didn't notice before.

[Jeg]

Nice video Geo. Thanks for sharing. I hope that you will fix your push pull soon to continue on this.

Nick i was also searching a method for varying my katcher's frequency. As you see from guys answers, frequency changes by altering the length of your Katcher, or by altering the capacitance of it. If you connect a variable area metal foil over your Katcher, then by altering this area you will have a variable frequency. Something like the attached image but a whole circle.

[AlienGrey]

Nick I did do some tests on a ring ferrite Katcher experiment and a 10Watt quartz lamp, I did notice it wasn't every efficient at all in fact it drew amps err !
Have you found that with your set up ?

I have since tried it with an air core and i do not get so many losses. Some where one of the articals warns against any soft Iron use in the core with this set up.

[Jeg]

I have since tried it with an air core and i do not get so many losses. Some where one of the articals warns against any soft Iron use in the core with this set up.

Hi AG
Iron's atoms can not follow this high frequency alternations. They are much slower in changing direction and if you force it move quickly then it gets hot. Tesla were using rusty iron wires though for small changes in frequency, by inserting them one by one inside his tubes.