Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[Grumage]

  Grum:
   Sorry, but I had a good laugh when I read about the cat...
   Sorry also, to hear about your IGBT, and variac. No laughing matter there.
   
    I still don't agree about feeding the rectified 220v as is shown in the diagram to the center tap of the yoke. It does not show that in the video, and at even 35 volts, may cause the problems you're seeing. Is your variac going through a bridge rectifier before going to the yoke?
   The video does however show the 220v DC going from the rectifier to one end of the 25 turn coil on the yoke's (white wire), and the other end of it to who knows where. I know, not much help...  but that is what it looks like to me. Some of these coils may be open ended, also.
  The bulbs, in your diagram are also not shown as being earth grounded at the bottom of the air coil, and possibly retuning to that same earth ground after the bulbs.  These are not just details.
  I'm also wondering why there are so many turns on the air coil,  I only count about 45 not 86, and the same with the resonator coil, and feed back coil, which should be separate, I think.  Anyway, those are my thoughts about it.
 
  Thanks for the SR diagrams. The first one is showing way too many components, and the second is more like it, but I still don't feel that they are really indicative of what SR is showing, either.
  Yes, many of these diagrams are similar,  and may all be similarly wrong, also. As not one of them is from an actual working device. 
  I do like the simplicity of the SR device, and 150 watts output, would suit me fine right about now. He probably did not even need to use the expensive IBGT transistors, fets, inverter, or Variac, either.

  Here's another diagram, possibly hand-drawn by SR himself, this time:
   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mVe_HdTsHI

Dear Nick.

Yes....... A genuine    Cat.....astrophy. Sorry I got in first

Now to your questions. No I am using, sorry, was using my Variac to drive a 240/35/35 V ac transformer into the FWBR as shown on my posted schematic. I don't actually know what happened but things were going really well. Five 60 W incadescent lamps lit to nearly 80% (by Watt box) at around 2 A, then a noise in the main coil (probably the home made cap flashed over) and wham. More expense!!

I have not shown the lamps being grounded because if you watch this video that dear Forest posted on the other thread.....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7C4yEAm2ue4

You can clearly see that first, there is no ground connection at all. And secondly, the lamps are connected directly to the top and bottom of the 86 turn output coil.
If you look closely at around 1.56 you can clearly see that the output from the Inverter is rectified and goes to the transistor control circuit board. It is a great pity that the video is of such poor quality as a lot could be gleaned from it.

Best wishes Grum.

[NickZ]

  Yes, you are right, no ground connection, on that video, and also the reason that he could not continue to keep the device running any longer without frying the recticifier. When he touched it he noticed that it was way too hot, and turned off the device. It would not run like that with the 500w bulb also connected for more than a few seconds. In his latest video he had it earth grounded the whole time. No battery, but a very good ground connection into the wet ground area some 8 yards away, instead of being grounded right next to the device.
  Why do you think that there is 86 turns on the air coil? Are all the air coils double layer wound? How do we know this?
  Also, as you say that after the inverters 220v is rectified into DC, it is then going to the driver board, why does your diagram show it going to the yokes center tap connection.
The yokes 25 turn coil RED wire is being feed by the rectified 220v DC.
There is also an unknown thick white wire going from the bottom of the yoke towards the air coil.
  Do you have a feed back path connected yet?

[Grumage]

Dear Nick.

Ok let's take each question in turn.

The FWBR that is getting hot has nothing to do with the device not being grounded. The heating effect is caused by it trying to rectify a HF signal. The diodes used in them are far too slow and get hot rather quickly.

The 86 turn coil is 86 turns because that is what the schematic said it was. I suppose you could guestimate, but after winding my own coil with the correct gauge of wire, it does seem to look right!!
Working with what T-1000 told me the reason for a two layer secondary is to create two distinct magnetic fields within the core of the transformer.

The positive is applied to the center tap to be split up by the two transistors, each one handling half of the total load. This then creates your full alternating current to what is the Yoke primary.

Now this is where I have deviated. I am still waiting for a reply from T-1000 as to the virtue of this mod. I am now driving the double layer "modulation coils" via the output of the 25 turn secondary(Yoke).

As you are aware the 3 turn secondary drives via a series capacitor the (in my case 7 turn) Tesla primary drive coil. In the video I guestimate 11 or 12 turns?? In the center.

I think I may have mentioned before that in the absence of a TV yoke I am using a high permeability pair of Ferrite U cores.

And finally, no I don't have a feedback as yet. My first task is to try and get the device to run as efficiently as possible. Then get a feedback.

Cheers Grum.

[NickZ]

  Ok, well, I see.  However, I don't see a double layer air coil,  and the "resonator" coil is about 12 turns, as well as what I can see of the feed back coil.
  You were right that the bulbs are connected to the top and bottom of the air coil secondary. I had not noticed that before. I would still connect the earth ground to it though. All self runners have had an earth ground. Akula disconnected it to show it would still run without it, but not stable, and not as strongly.
  I've tried to connect the yoke's center tap to a pulced 220v or higher voltage, and got a burnt trace on my 65 watt Cfl driver board used to drive it, almost immediately. I managed to fix the burnt trace, but I'm hesitant on trying it again. I had bypassed the fuse, as it was bad previously. My mistake.
 
  I've tried to study the last video uploaded that I sent of the SR diagram, but I  need some help from someone that can understand Russian, as some things aren't clear to me. At least it looks like the real thing, without all the additional components shown in the other diagrams, and it does look like it was drawn by SR himself.
  Best of luck,
                       NZ

[Hoppy]

http://www.maranetitalia.com/mobile/?sk=video&vid=IAPe3DiYt2o