Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[Tomtech29]

-good concept but for me does not work

[Tomtech29]

I used C1 has a capacity of 3n3 there is a slight change pulse width
and second potentiometers to adjust the phase shift from input something like that:

[Tomtech29]

  current signal led this small ferrite ring (induction coil choke) effect peaks are at the top of the sine but with a frequency of about 128Khz.
the measurement of these pins peaks .But it looks to me as if the generator set at 2% duty cycle
Ruslan what he said? a need within 500ns pulse
- Gentlemen good scheme is necessary!
Dally is either a hoax or a chance to win the lotto?

Bat 1 you have already made PLL to lock phase ? This causes the passage of pure sine, You have shown us the signal to the base (gate)
why you have jagged square wave? (it appears to me that you have a heavily loaded to push poll) thus not fully opening the transistors certainly very hot have much power to blot out)

to ask even if power these bulbs will drop after excluding Tesla?

[Bat1Robin2]

Nick,
I do not think circuit board you listed would work. 2 reasons:

1st reason pulse width would most likely be too wide and not sharp enough for tesla driver. (since it only has a 1.5 mhz capability) it needs to finish the pulse quicker than that speed even tho it runs at 40 khz interval the pulse width needs to be slim.

2nd reason the circuit shown we are building in the schematic utilizes the bemf and dumps it back onto the floating ground or at the yoke it dumps bemf back onto the 24volt line. Almost all modern circuit drivers will simply burn away all  bemf as it serves no purpose for them. This will prevent this the driver board you listed from being efficient.

I assume you did not mean for the push pull yoke since there is 2 of them needed. For the tesla it simple will not have a sharp impulse. In order to push towards overunity we must harvest every ounce of bemf. Unfortunatly this means very little bemf burn off resistors and diodes & surge protectors.. This leads to the path of FET destruction if not done carefully.

That board is a big diesel tractor , it will drive good and strong and consume all your power as it does, dumping all bemf into useless resistors and diodes it has on board to handle such events. Then light up a led showing you its working good as it waist a little more power.

[starcruiser]

    Starcruiser:
   I've been trying to replicate the Akula/Ruslan second video device, and don't want to have to start at home base again. As I'm not trying to make a new Kacher, I'm trying to tune the one that I already have.  As these specific running frequencies are everything here, in order to see some positive results.
   The grenade coil is 37.5 meters long, and 168 turns, so the recommended Kacher secondary coil size is about 18 to 19 meters, of 19 gauge mag wire. So that both the grenade's 24 turn bifilar resonator coil (falsely called as it is really an inductor, and so is the 168 turns output coil), will be in sync, with the Kacher crt.  But, my Kacher circuit does not seam to be strong enough, nor at the right frequency to effect the grenade coils, in the best possible way.
   Therefore, which way should I go... concerning figuring out the proper frequencies for my device. 
   In anycase, I'll add more windings to the Kacher secondary, and up the voltage to see what happens.
   

Nick,

I understand, I would suggest checking the primary to secondary coupling on the Kacher (Tesla coil), if it is too far away this will reduce output, also check the spacing of the primary (inter-coil winds)
as this will affect output and coupling. Then work on increasing the drive voltage to the primary.

The Top load (antenna) as Bat1 indicated will affect the secondaries operating resonant frequency, the number of winds and the spacing to the grenade (inductor) coil will also affect the perceived
capacitance thus impact its operating frequency. You should remember the Antenna coil is creating an asymmetrical capacitor using the grenade coil, different sized plates, as the mass is different
between them.

I would suggest perhaps using a few Popsicle sticks with hot glue or ty-wraps to fix the coil size and spacing (if you are using stranded wire for this coil). This is one reason why I am using copper tubing (1/4" and 3/8") since this is more stable
and will hold its shape more readily.

Hope this helps, good luck with sorting this out.