Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[NickZ]

 Grum: How 'bout a pic or two.

  Geo, so are you saying that you get shocked if barefoot and touch the heat-sink, but don't, if you touch the output connections? Just wondering...   
  I will try more bulbs, but my system is still needing a lot more tuning, to be able to do so without heat build-up., and I still can't find my components.
  I may have made a mistake by putting both of the small heat sink together, I should separate them as this might cause some different results.
  What resistors (1k) but what size, were you using on your original video?
Are the bigger square white ceramic resistors,  needed or not?
Although my Fets do get hot, sometimes they don't, as much, and I'm still trying out different caps. What value cap(s) did you use at the primary to the yoke? I have a .47uf right now.

  So far,  my current Royer circuit is NOT able to light any bulbs as well as my single transistor Ringer circuit, but the Ringer uses a ferrite rod, and has much higher voltage output to the bulbs, and does shock the living sh!t out of you.
 

[GeoFusion]

@Nickz:
No no, no shocks at all , I can demonstrate by touching even the output wires and no shocks .It happened when I saw changes when the brightness of the lights changed. That is when I realised something more could be done.
Yeah be carefull when it heats up, Btw Put each Fet on it's own Heatsink. So yes separate them as how i did.

They were 1Kohms 1/4 watts in original video. http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/images/G455RB.jpg
I did not try square white ceramic resistors yet. So not needed here for what I did. But guesing for the other Royer circuits it would be handy, depending on value.

My Fets do get warm over time of usage, but placed a fan andf helped alot staying pretty cool.

This is the exact Value of caps I been using in original vid.
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v1/537410936/0-33uf-330nf-mpp-630v-metallized-polypropylene-film-capacitor.jpg
Guesing the .47uf could also do, those are MKP right? or Polypropylene?

Yes those ringer Circuits are cool, I do have one I would share but it's totaly overhauld. but they have direct contact with the battery, so you still get DC jolt, that is why it shocks so.



@ Grum:
Nicee .
the circuit Looks interesting, must be tested on some loading see how it behaves.
See what it's capable of. Looking forward to this one on recording or pics.


Cheerz

[Grumage]

Dear All.

Well I started to doubt myself!!  AGE??  So I set up my old scope and no I am not loosing it, definitely 200 plus volts!!

You asked for a photo, I could not resist this one......... I would like you all to meet my latest Lab assistant, his name is Austin.

I think he is waiting for a rat to emerge from the nest that I have made here!! 

Cheers Grum.

[a.king21]

Dear All.

Well I started to doubt myself!!  AGE??  So I set up my old scope and no I am not loosing it, definitely 200 plus volts!!

You asked for a photo, I could not resist this one......... I would like you all to meet my latest Lab assistant, his name is Austin.

I think he is waiting for a rat to emerge from the nest that I have made here!! 

Cheers Grum.

A couple of neons in series would have saved you time lol.

[NickZ]

  Grum and all:
  Here is a pic of my circuit lighting a 50 watt incandescent bulb on just 20 volts AC, nothing on DC, and that's with a load bulb on.
  Although the bulb is only partially lit, I'm getting excited now.
  Probably need to have more winds on both coils, but, it's a start in the right direction, as I'm able to light the bulb consistently every time now, even with no earth ground.
   I did separate the two heat-sinks, and will probably put some electrical tape between them also. Although I can'y hear a thing, my daughter says that she can hear it "ringing" slightly. very very high pitch.  Age, huh, Grum???  Any ways, I'd rather not hear it singing, suits me just fine.

  Edit:  Just bought a couple of 100 watt incandescent bulbs, but the circuit won't light them. YET...