Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[Hoppy]

  Hoppy:
  Thanks for your reply.  I was asking for close up pictures of a properly working circuit because practically no one has actually made an EXACT replication of the diagram, or of Geos circuit results. As even the slightest deviation can produce different results. And no one has yet been able to replicate his results, especially BRIGHTLY  lighting hundreds, or thousands of watts worth of bulbs. This is the reason for my insistence on full details, and pictures.
  Geo has now provided us with even more details and information, which was what I was asking for, and I really do appreciate it. And I'm sure he will also cooperate by showing bulbs lit on a grid source as a comparison, when he has a chance.

Nick,

You will note from Geo's post that he can match grid lumens with higher rail voltages of 24V and 36V. You should be able to achieve this with a well built Mazzilli and suitable transformer. However, bear in mind that by increasing rail voltage the power consumption will also increase to supply a higher wattage lamp load, so you will need batteries or power supply with sufficient capacity to run this increased load. If Geo can provide you with some device v grid lumen comparative photos and ideally lumen measurements taken using a 'light box', then you will be in a much better position to know if your setup is performing as well as his. As you wish to replicate Geo's RMG setup, he will also need to supply more details about the copper and iron wire used for his transformer and winding / core details. Are the 1.5, 2.5 and 4mm sq conductors actually single solid conductors? I ask this as I've not seen this type of wire sold today, so I'm thinking that he is using wire that was produced many years ago, which you may not be able to procure easily.

[NickZ]

  Hoppy:
   Yes, you are very right. And I will also do what I can to replicate and obtain similar results, when I can. What concerns me at this time is the overheating issue, especially at 36v. which I can't avoid with my current set up.
   This higher voltage of 36v, can also be obtained using three smaller solar panels connected in series, as a power source. With the idea to obtain a much higher output through the oscillator, to the bulbs, and to my electric hot water shower heater (3k watts), etz...  But, the final goal is of course that illusive self runner.

[verpies]

Are you measuring your volts with a DVM/Voltmeter ? Because if you are you will not be seeing the true voltage due to the high frequency.

How, true.  If I had a dime for every time I saw this...
The same is true about measuring high frequency current (a.k.a. amperage).

You could try making a FWBR from 4 X 1N4148 and see what you get.

This way, you'll just get a peak voltage, not the average voltage.  One of my first discussions on this forum was about Wattsup's idea of using a FWBR and a capacitor like this.  See here.

Also don't forget that Itsu and I were quoting P/P voltages read off the scope ( I know I was!!) this value should then be multiplied by 0.707 for a rough RMS value that your DVM does automatically!!

RMS Voltage = Amplitude * 0.707 is true only for sine waves (also, peak-to-peak voltage is 2*amplitude, for a sine wave).  For other waveform shapes RMS values are very different.  See this.

Anyway, multiplying RMS Voltage * RMS Current  does not equal Average Watts in most cases.  This 0.707*0.707 multiplication makes sense only when the voltage and current are in phase in a pure sine wave (or DC).
To properly measure power in a non-DC circuit you must multiply the instantaneous voltage * instantaneous current at high frequency and average the results (emphasis added for plural "results").

For example, with an incandescent/thermal "Wattbox" or a Watt to Volt converter like the one shown below, which will allow you to measure true Watts with an ordinary Voltmeter.

[Grumage]

How, true.
The same is true for current (a.k.a. amperage).
This way, you'll just get a peak voltage, not the average voltage.
RMS Voltage = Amplitude * 0.707 is true only for sine waves (also, peak-to-peak voltage is 2*amplitude, for a sine wave).  For other waveform shapes RMS values are very different.  See this.

Anyway, multiplying RMS Voltage * RMS Current  does not equal Average Watts in most cases.  This multiplication makes sense only when the voltage and current are in phase in a pure sine wave (or DC).
To properly measure power in a non-DC circuit you must multiply the instantaneous voltage * instantaneous current at high frequency and average the results (emphasis added for plural "results").

For example, with a incandescent/thermal "Wattbox" or a Watt to Volt converter like the one shown below, which will allow you to measure true Watts with an ordinary voltmeter.

Good evening Verpies.

I know you consider yourself to be "The Lone Policeman" but thank goodness for that !!

That would be a great circuit for all of us to use, do you know if anyone is making it commercially ? I do have a friend who might be persuaded if there was sufficient demand, his products are well known amongst this community here in the UK. I have been road testing one of his new PWM's which has turned out to be very robust. Well I haven't killed it yet !!     I killed all the earlier models !!

Cheers Grum.

[verpies]

That would be a great circuit for all of us to use, do you know if anyone is making it commercially ? I do have a friend who might be persuaded if there was sufficient demand, his products are well known amongst this community here in the UK. I have been road testing one of his new PWM's which has turned out to be very robust. Well I haven't killed it yet !!     I killed all the earlier models !!

Nobody is making it commercially (I just drew it on a bus 15min ago) but the 2GHz multiplier ADL5391 is not very expensive. It can be had for £6, for example from here or even cheaper sources.
I think, it could change the face of this forum as people could have an accurate and instant confirmation whether their circuits are really OU. 
Also, it can be sold as a standard accessory for a multimeter.  It will show "negative power", too.

P.S.
This circuit could use an addition of overvoltage & overcurrent indicators as well as a multiple-range switch (for R1, R2, R3) ...or autoranging.