Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[NickZ]

  Gyula, Sea Monkey, and All:
  Thanks for all you've done. The diagrams were what I needed.
   I tried the single diode rectifier connected to a center tap from my previous flyback core circuit, first. It burnt the right diode, with a small pop after a few seconds running with the bulbs on, also.
I had a higher voltage cap on that single rectifier diode. So, I placed a 25v 2200uf on it instead.  I shifted the connections onto the other diode, (to the left hand one). Right one burnt out.
  When running the circuit without a capacitor, the diode gets burning hot in seconds. With a 25v 2200uf cap in parallel with the DC output, there is little heating of the diode, but the cap gets very hot. I also placed a 25v 2200uf capacitor on the input, as well. Still the fets are getting hot, and so is the rectifier/cap which is connected to a second 12 7aH battery.  I'm not looping the output back to the circuit input side until I resolve this overheating issue first, as I don't want to risk burning the Fets out, as well.
  The flyback AC output voltage will dimly light a regular 100w bulb to about 20% bulb brightness.
The rectified DC output from the flyback/rectifier without a cap is 11.5 volts.
  Here is a pic:
 

[NickZ]

  Although there are some of us that may think that these types of inverter systems are basically a waist of time, I would tend to disagree. Even if they don't have a working loop, to help them to self run.
  Here below is a video made by Lidmotor showing how a regular 38 watt incandescent bulb is drawing 4 amps from his solar system's 12v inverter/battery set up.  So, a single 110v, 100 watt bulb would probably draw at least twice that much current, like 8 amps +, perhaps.
  How about a half dozen 100w bulbs, how many amps would that draw off of???
  In comparison a Mazilli/yoke circuit draws much, much less, possibly only 50 to 75 watts, although only partially lighting the bulbs, for now. Further tuning would improve this for a higher light output.

  Lidmotor video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hkUJ019RA6Q

[Hoppy]

  Although there are some of us that may think that these types of inverter systems are basically a waist of time, I would tend to disagree. Even if they don't have a working loop, to help them to self run.
  Here below is a video made by Lidmotor showing how a regular 38 watt incandescent bulb is drawing 4 amps from his solar system's 12v inverter/battery set up.  So, a single 110v, 100 watt bulb would probably draw at least twice that much current, like 8 amps +, perhaps.
  How about a half dozen 100w bulbs, how many amps would that draw off of???
  In comparison a Mazilli/yoke circuit draws much, much less, possibly only 50 to 75 watts, although only partially lighting the bulbs, for now. Further tuning would improve this for a higher light output.

  Lidmotor video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hkUJ019RA6Q

Nick,

If you seriously want to light bulbs for domestic emergency purposes, then get yourself a decent inverter. The modified square wave type inverters should be avoided for running CFL's. The Mazilli setup will not match a decent inverter for efficiency. As Lidmotor demonstrates, incandescent bulbs are pants, unless you also need some heating to go with the lighting. 

You say: "In comparison a Mazilli/yoke circuit draws much, much less, possibly only 50 to 75 watts, although only partially lighting the bulbs, for now." This is pure guess work given that you do not have the means to measure power v light level.

[gyulasun]

Hi NickZ,

I think your AC output voltage from the coil is much higher than 100V peak (the max voltage rating
for the MBR diode), this can be the explanation for popping them. I do not think that it was the load
current which burnt the diodes, there must be some hundred Volt AC peaks amplitude at your output,
a scope would be the best to see it. OR you wish to consider buying fast or ultra fast, at least 600V
breakdown rated Si diodes. The UF4007 is cheap, has 1000V and 1 Amper capability and you could parallel
some to increase forward current capability, do not worry on paralleling them. Elsewhere on this forum
other diode types has been mentioned already for your question.
Now that your boxes may have no more suitable diodes, you have to buy...

The fact that your electrolytic cap 25V 2200uF got very hot when hooked up across the DC
output of the diodes means that the DC voltage level thus created must be much higher than 25V.
So you have to use capacitors with at least 100V DC ratings or even higher,  BUT then this again depends on
the AC peak ouput level across the coil.

You would somehow need to know the unloaded and the loaded peak AC voltage levels across the coil,
the load could be a 40W or 60W regular bulb. I know you mentioned the 100W bulb test, this was a kind of
comparison for estimating the ruling power level, accepting this then as a rough measure you seem to have
20W power available... but this can also be deceiving.

You mention the rectified DC ouput to be 11.5V without any capacitor: I suspect your DC meter is fooled by
the rectified waveforms and does not / cannot measure reality.
Oscilloscope can show this correctly, unfortunately.

The capacitor when connected, charges up to the highest value DC component of the rectified waveform
and this level must be higher than 25V, if the cap gets hot fast. Did not you monitor this DC level across the cap
with a DC voltage meter? assuming a bulb load of a few watts is always connected because when a rectified and
capacitor puffered flyback voltage is unloaded, the DC level goes up near to the peak level of the AC output.

Gyula

[NickZ]

  Hoppy:
  Thanks for your comments. However, after seeing what a regular inverter draws when connected to incandescent  type of bulbs that I'm using, I'll stay with the Mazilli/yoke circuit, for now.
  I absolutely hate florescent bulbs, and even worse the LED bulbs. Those are not an option for me. Their light spectrum is not what I'm looking for.
  I only pay $20 per month on electricity bills, and even these unconvetional type of inverters can be also connected to the grid for further savings. I'm already doing this, and have also a few solar panels, connected to these inverters, as well. An emergency back up system is also not what I'm looking for, as I already have that.
  In any case, I would like to obtain a proper inverter for these tests. Whichever type that may be. As several of the Akula or Kapanadze type of circuits seem to use them to obtain the results that are being shown.
  I know that you don't think that any of the self running devices are for real and have repeated your views many many times concerning their falseness. But, I don't agree, with your speculations. 

  If this effort were easy to do, it would have been done long ago.  Perhaps it was done long ago, and still being covered up to this date.