Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[Hoppy]

 
  Hoppy:
   To clarify,  I have connected the Mazilli/yoke (and other circuits) to a 12v, 500mA wall adapter, along with several other adapters, and can produce some useable light, even at this low input. But, that is not what I'm into discussing.
  If you were to see the amount of light that three 100watt bulbs give off, through this 12v yoke circuit, you would not be thinking like you are. However I'm not against using regular inverters, if they work better yet. But, this needs to be proven. Lidmotors video showing a 38watt bulb drawing 4 amps does not convince me that that is the way to go.

Nick,

Thanks for the clarification.

As I said earlier do the proper power measurements v light levels for both Mazilli and inverter and then decide and report back.

[NickZ]

  Hoppy:
  I know what you're saying. But, I don't care about the proper measurements, I'll leave that for those that care about that. 
  As mentioned, the non-shocking magnetic output current of this device can't be measured. Meters will not work right. Nor do I believe that a scope can properly read this type of output current, as well. And, If so, maybe someone will report back on their findings. Although it seams that no one is interested in pursuing this, at this time.
  How do we know and can be sure that what the scope reads is for real?
 

[Hoppy]

  Hoppy:
  I don't care about the proper measurements, I'll leave that for those that care about that. 
  Nor do I believe that a scope can properly read this type of output current, as well.
  How do we know and can be sure that what the scope reads is for real?

I'm lost for words Nick. Lets close this conversation.

[NickZ]

   Hoppy:
   The conversation can end,  or it can change to what I'm more into working on, and discussing on this thread.
Which is the feed back path, the overheating issues and cures, loud ringing noise, and the tuning for maximum output brightness from the bulbs, etz...  Not the efficiency issues.
   I don't have lux meters, scopes, signal generators, spectrum analyzers, variable output power supply devices, etz...  But, I'm doing what I can with what I have available to me. And always report my findings, as best as I can. 
  No Z wires, either.

  I would rather show you a working device. No words needed...  just a toast and a big cigar. Ha!

[gyulasun]

  Gyula:
   Again, thanks for your reply.
   I'll further work on this circuit to obtain better results. I've changed the rectifier cap to a bigger one, I tried several of them, even the biggest one that I have. Now the cap does not heat up, but the rectifier diode still heats up very quickly. This all might be improved by using the right 18 volt, 5 amp zeners on the Fets, along with the right tuning caps, as I'm not running any tuning caps on the AC output right now. The cap that is connected to the input side, does not seam to make any difference. Reducing the AC voltage by removing turns, only increases the available amps to the rectifier.
  Considering that running on just a single 100w bulb, only lights to about 20% or so, I really don't think that it's the high voltage that is the problem, but possibly the high amp draw. Who knows...
  Both Akula's first device, as well as many of Igor Moroz's rectifier bridge circuits all heat up.
  If I just connect two UF type diodes to the ac output coil, and feed this back to the input side, they overheat in seconds.
  The output voltage on this circuit is dependent on the load. But, the meter will not read it properly. 
  I'll continue testing today.
  Thanks for the helping hand.

Hi NickZ,

If you could be more informative the forum members may help better. I mean when you say you changed the rectifier cap to a bigger one or you tried even the biggest one you had...  Much better would be simply to say the voltage ratings and the cap values you actually used/tested. Or the diodes that still heated up, what types were they...  You know that would be more informative.

The cap on the input side is to test whether the setup is able to self run after the feedback switch is closed, just by the stored energy in the puffer caps when you disconnect the battery input. (Here I refer to my suggested drawing.)  Otherwise the input cap indeed has no much role as you found. Of course such self run tests may come after solving the heating diode issues.

Reducing the AC voltage by turns removing: it should be reducing the amplitude of the output voltage but then it seems that it is still high for the diode ratings.

If you do not think that the high output voltage is not the problem: you may wish to connect several good diodes in series, preferably identical types to add up their reverse voltage ratings and see how they perform. 
Rectifier diodes may heat up if their current and reverse voltage rating abused and the frequency of the AC waves greatly exceeds their spec. BUT remember: if you use the correct diode type for a job, say you have 4A via a diode and there is say 1V forward voltage drop across it, then the dissipation is around 4W: this heats up its body.

On your feedback to the input by two UF type diodes: again which type? and did you do it as my drawing suggested?

Gyula