Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[Void]

Question:  why do the caps getting hot in those circumstances? Both are rated to handle the voltages (400 / 630V)

Hi itsu. In a high current tank circuit arrangement, you need a tank capacitor with low Equivalent Series Resistance (ESR).
I believe the 'orange drop' capacitors you are using are polypropylene film capacitors, which is a good economical choice for
high current tank circuit use, because polypropylene film capacitors usually have a pretty low ESR. However, by using 
two of these capacitors in series, you are increasing the total ESR, it adds together I believe. You would be much better off to take say 4
capacitors of this type with lower capacitance values, and place them all in parallel to get the desired total capacitance you want for the tank circuit. 
That way you are also paralleling the ESR of each capacitor and the result is a much lower total ESR. The tank capacitors should
remain cooler if you parallel the  polypropylene film capacitors that way. This is a way to get a low ESR without having to buy a more
expensive type of capacitor with very low ESR. 

Yes, there appears to be some misunderstanding in that leader genie video, as the driving circuit does appear to be a ZVS driver circuit
which should be producing at least roughly a sinewave. Also the two circuits do seem to be tuned to close to the same resonant frequency
when looking at the scope waveforms shown.

All the best...

[Acca]

 Here is the latest post by Ruslan....below !!!


And ...


Ruslan Kulabuhov latest ad for Top radio...   sexy !!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SWU3LJGftDA&list=LL_zn0cdzv_qfsxQUm4e7R9w&index=2

[NickZ]

   Itsu:
   Good to see you here.
   I'm using the 0.22 to 0.47uf poly caps, 400 to 1600 volts on my Mazilli circuit.
They do not get hot, at all, although my fets IRFP260N which should be able handle the voltage and amperage , could boil water for my morning coffee.
   Now I'm using a bigger rectangular shaped 1.2uf tuning capacitor from the 3 turn yoke output coil, to the new Akula core primary coil, which I'm still tuning and working on.  So far, I get no light at the Akula secondary output coil. Although my meter reads 110v, which as I've mentioned previously, the volt meter can not read the output on the Mazilli correctly. There is nothing wrong with my volt meter. It just can't accurately read this type of magnetic current, at the yoke's secondary coil output, or even at the Akula air core secondary output coil, either. So, I'm not sure just what voltage there really is, so I look for the bulb brightness(lumin levels), when there is such a thing.
  The 1.2uf yoke secondary coil tuning capacitor should probably be teamed up with a few more of the same caps, but even just the single cap that I'm using now, does help to raise the output voltage.
  I'll keep adding more turns on the Akula cores also, until I get the best light output.
It takes a lot of turns to raise the voltage, when going from the yoke 3 turn output coil (60v), to the Akula air core primary coil, which now only has about 80v, or so. I placed only about 12, 12 turns, for a total of about 25 turns, bifilar, or so on that primary coil. And about 48, 24, 24 turns on the Akula air coil secondary (output coil). All the Akula air core coils are wound in the same direction.
  Hope that you can join me on this new project. I'm still scatching my head trying to figure out how Akula/Ruslan/TK have done it. But, I will get to the bottom of this.

   I believe that the Royer or even the Mazilli circuits are not apt for our purpose. As there is over heating issues, and lots of amp draw, instead. The bulbs get very hot, as well, so I don't think that this is what's called "cold electricity", either.  But, the non-shocking part is still what amazes me, and would hate to lose that.

  I'll probably try the new simplified circuit the MenofFather posted, if I can obtain all the parts for it. But, I'm trying to finish my Akula coil, first, and then get my kacher/exciter pulser circuit tuned and connected up to the Mazilli/Akula circuit, also.

  I wonder what Geo thinks of that simplified circuit that MenofFather posted, and did also make several changes to it.  Will it self run, still, as posted???

[Void]

There is nothing wrong with my volt meter. It just can't accurately read this type of magnetic current, at the yoke's secondary coil output, or even at the Akula air core secondary output coil, either. So, I'm not sure just what voltage there really is, so I look for the bulb brightness(lumin levels), when there is such a thing.

Hi Nickz. Most digital and analog voltmeters are not designed to measure AC voltage at very high frequencies,
and they also will only read accurately if you are measuring a fairly pure sinewave, unless they are a special type of
AC voltmeter known as 'True RMS'.  Some voltmeters can measure AC voltages accurately to somewhat higher frequencies
than other meters, but there is no way of knowing for sure unless you check the manual for your particular volt meter.
For example, my DVM lists in the manual that its frequency range for measuring AC voltage is 40Hz to 1kHz. Anything over
1kHz and it will not measure AC voltages accurately. (Do not confuse the AC Voltage max frequency spec. for the max specified frequency
for a frequency measuring function on your meter, if it has such a feature. These are two completely separate things.)

All the best...

[zcsaba77]

Nickz have yet to upload his version of drawn schematic containing all the component value details for anyone whom wish to start with yoke core experiment base on his latest video uploaded around 2 wk back.

Hi MagPWR

In post #4656?
and this circuit is adjutable by frequency and duty cycle?

regards zcsaba77