Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[Dog-One]

   Yes, only because up to now all the higher powered FE generators use a push-pull configuration to create a strong Magnetic Pulse, that is superimposed by the HV HF pulse from one type of HV pulser driver circuit, or another. 

  I believe that the magnetic field from the induction circuit is the main factor in the effect. As high voltage by itself won't do much work.
   If you can create a strong magnetic field with the use of your audio amp, which should be able light several hundred watts worth of bulbs as a load, than I see no problem to superimpose it, rectify the output, and send it back to the input. Simple, right?

My feeling about the push-pull driver is it's a commonly used power inverter type circuit.  Many DC to DC converters operate this way.  Also, with push-pull, you effectively double the input voltage to the primary.  This is all well and good as long as you plan on taking the output of the secondary and rectifying it, since you don't really care about the harmonics--they'll all go away once rectified and filtered.

For the Ruslan device, it would seem to me you actually want a clean sine wave, since what is going through the two coils (grenade and heater coil) is AC.  We've seen this on several Ruslan scope shots.  Personally, I think Ruslan went to a lot of trouble to make sure his push-pull driver and yoke would output a clean sine wave.  I went down this road and finding the proper combination of components is hard enough, but then you toss into the mix the push-pull has to run at a specific frequency makes things ten times more difficult to get the nice sine wave you're after.  Hence my decision to try something easier.  Enter the Class-D audio amplifier...

When I use this amplifier, getting a clean sine wave running at the frequency I want is nearly child's play.  And yes, it will make a screw driver almost glow if you insert it into the air core.  There is no difficulty in getting the capacitors tuned and lighting up several 100 watt light bulbs.  I still don't know yet if things will self-run this way or not, I'm about ten days out from having my new Tesla driver boards fabricated.  I modified the ones I have about as far as I could go and hit a wall getting them to where they need to be.  The new ones are simple and should do the job just fine.

I'm hoping someone might try testing an audio amp as I have done, so I have someone to compare notes with.  From what I have seen so far, this method is by far easier and gives very consistent results.  The only large change I had to make going this way is to switch to a 48 volt power supply because most Class-D amplifiers I have tried need at the very minimum 25 volts to operate.  With this voltage one has to be a little careful rectifying it down to 12 or 5 volt to run the other logic circuits.  I suppose you could use two power supplies though--a 48 volt for the amp and a lower voltage, lower power one for the other circuits.  Anyway, it's an option and I'd like to see someone give it a go and share their opinion.

[Dog-One]

How will a *Zero harmonic* sine wave excite a 3rd, 5th or 7th harmonic of the fundamental?

I thought the idea is the operate the *push-pull* @ a sub-harmonic of the high frequency inductor  (ie: 100:1?)............

I'm not clear understanding what is exciting what.  I thought the impulses from the Tesla coil running at 100 times the frequency of the grenade/heater coils was providing the excitation.  Studying the complete design of Ruslan's device, I get the feeling the Tesla secondary and antenna create a condition between the grenade and heater coils that stimulate a parametric oscillation, whereby the capacitance/inductance between those two heavy wire coils is knocked out of balance.  On Ruslan's earlier device that used the nanosecond generator and coax, the grenade and heater coils are still performing the same function.

So, we can still maintain the frequency ratio with clean sine waves, but is this enough?  Is there more to it then we fully comprehend?

I hope to at least find out what doesn't work and understand why.  If there is an easier solution, I'm certainly not going to rule it out until I've tested it.

[John.K1]

Hi Dog,
So you reccon to use the amplifier?  I have at home similar to this one - http://www.ebay.ie/itm/200W-12V-Mini-Hi-Fi-Amplifier-Amp-Radio-MP3-Stereo-Car-Bike-home-/330748381081?hash=item4d0223c799.  Would it be OK to try it out?

[Dog-One]

So you reccon to use the amplifier?  I have at home similar to this one - http://www.ebay.ie/itm/200W-12V-Mini-Hi-Fi-Amplifier-Amp-Radio-MP3-Stereo-Car-Bike-home-/330748381081?hash=item4d0223c799.  Would it be OK to try it out?

If you wouldn't mind giving it a try, I'd sure like to hear about your results.

I'm currently using this one with good success.  It's bigger than needed, so I crank it down where the distortion is practically zero.
http://store.sure-electronics.com/aa-ab31392

The first amp I used was a 300 watt Public Address amplifier and after seeing how it performed, I decided to get an amplifier dedicated for this project.  One I could potentially loop with.

It's real nice being able to just turn a volume control knob to completely control the amp draw and behavior of this device.  Trying to adjust a PWM push-pull or adding big power resistors is much more difficult.

What you will need to do though John is use all 24 turns on the primary, don't try it with just 12.  With your amplifier being only 12 volts, you probably won't get it to light up any bulbs because of the turns ratio of the toroid/yoke transformer, but you will at least be able to experiment with the tuning and possibly see the effects of the heater coil.  Hopefully you see the clean sine wave coming through your new current sense transformer.  Take note of how different this looks compared to the push-pull driver.

[magpwr]

My feeling about the push-pull driver is it's a commonly used power inverter type circuit.  Many DC to DC converters operate this way.  Also, with push-pull, you effectively double the input voltage to the primary.  This is all well and good as long as you plan on taking the output of the secondary and rectifying it, since you don't really care about the harmonics--they'll all go away once rectified and filtered.

For the Ruslan device, it would seem to me you actually want a clean sine wave, since what is going through the two coils (grenade and heater coil) is AC.  We've seen this on several Ruslan scope shots.  Personally, I think Ruslan went to a lot of trouble to make sure his push-pull driver and yoke would output a clean sine wave.  I went down this road and finding the proper combination of components is hard enough, but then you toss into the mix the push-pull has to run at a specific frequency makes things ten times more difficult to get the nice sine wave you're after.  Hence my decision to try something easier.  Enter the Class-D audio amplifier...

When I use this amplifier, getting a clean sine wave running at the frequency I want is nearly child's play.  And yes, it will make a screw driver almost glow if you insert it into the air core.  There is no difficulty in getting the capacitors tuned and lighting up several 100 watt light bulbs.  I still don't know yet if things will self-run this way or not, I'm about ten days out from having my new Tesla driver boards fabricated.  I modified the ones I have about as far as I could go and hit a wall getting them to where they need to be.  The new ones are simple and should do the job just fine.

I'm hoping someone might try testing an audio amp as I have done, so I have someone to compare notes with.  From what I have seen so far, this method is by far easier and gives very consistent results.  The only large change I had to make going this way is to switch to a 48 volt power supply because most Class-D amplifiers I have tried need at the very minimum 25 volts to operate.  With this voltage one has to be a little careful rectifying it down to 12 or 5 volt to run the other logic circuits.  I suppose you could use two power supplies though--a 48 volt for the amp and a lower voltage, lower power one for the other circuits.  Anyway, it's an option and I'd like to see someone give it a go and share their opinion.

hi Dog-One,

I would suggest not to waste time on audio amplifier with 2 simple reason
1)PWM Generator can easily do eg:1Khz to 1Mhz without changing any components.We are not into audio fidelity.

2)Duty cycle can be varied from 3% to 49% as an example for PWM which can still produce sine-wave across capacitor example after 3 turns.Varying PWM give us the full control to limit the current consumption as desired.Duty cycle control also effect amplitude of the sine-wave to a desirable level.

Nothing more to talk about regarding audio amps.