Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[stivep]

   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdlkeI0bXy4&feature=youtu.be


Wesley

[AlienGrey]

  Hoppy:
   Geo's new push-pull driver looks fairly simple to build, unlike Ruslan's latest driver.  So, I'll probably give something like that a try, also. But, for now my Mazilli is up and running well.

   It's gotten harder to detect the actual "effect" on my device, from just the addition of one voltage onto another.  Since the bulbs are lighting much brighter when the Kacher is also on now. Unlike before, where there was no change in brightness, or even a dimming of the bulbs, at times. As the Kacher's input now comes from the yoke secondary coil, and it much higher voltage, and intensity. That's why I was working with lower voltages at first to see if I could light more bulbs, than you normally would expect with that low a voltage/amperage. But, if that input source for the Kacher is drawn from the induction circuit, is used for looping back to the Kacher circuit's input without affecting the draw, that would be something.
 
  Anyways, I'm seeing some interesting "effects", at lower than 100 watt loads.  But, my bridge rectifiers just melted 3 solder points, all at once. So, I'm looking for some stronger diodes, as my order of MUR1560 were not available.   
My device make no ringing noise, at this point, and I hope that it stays that way. Nice and quiet.
  Good to see you back.
   

NickZ  my door is always open here. If your diodes are overheating a good bit of energy must be being consumed within the diode circuit possibly (effect) power (who knows) your the observer, in that, have a look with your scope in some way and find out what frequency power is being fed into them and then see if it's correct. no offence intended, but ( no effect here but i can light 3 x 50 what display bulbs from dollar / pound shop, no messing but power consumed goes up and up each time . but I still have work to do.

Regards AG

[NickZ]

  I've explained what heats up the rectifiers, it's no mistery. They are not made for using on higher than the 60hz frequency coming from the grid. Nor can they handle the amps, as well.
  I also already know the solution, as I've mentioned, to use the MUR1560 diodes to make a full bridge rectifier with.
  I have a friend that is going to the US for a couple of weeks, and I'll see if he can bring back some of those diodes for me.

   Geo: Please place a regular grid powered bulb next to your set up for comparison. As it looks like the 110v 20w microwave bulb that you used is providing more light that all the other bulbs all put together. Lumin wise, that is.
Is that the case, or just an optical illusion?
  Maybe you can try to power the Kacher from the induction circuit's output, instead of the PS. As that is the next step towards self running. Then you'll be able to tell me if your rectifiers are holding up, or not. As the full bridge is the bottle neck on this device.
  These are the diodes that apecore is using, which he has tried and found to work without overheating.
  https://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/RU/RURP3060.pdf

  Maybe the reason why neither Akula nor Ruslan have never shown the device running a FULL LOAD, and then turn off or disconnect the Kacher. Because they can't? As you just showed, when you disconnect the power to the Kacher circuit from the PS, you get nothing at all at the bulbs. 

[Hoppy]

 
   Geo: Please place a regular grid powered bulb next to your set up for comparison. As it looks like the 110v 20w microwave bulb that you used is providing more light that all the other bulbs all put together. Lumin wise, that is.
Is that the case, or just an optical illusion?

Nick,

Its interesting that you noticed this, as I did, which highlights how misleading brightness v power level can be when viewed from a video recording, let alone directly by the eye at the bench. OK, to be fair the 20W bulb was being overvoltaged according to Geo, so could not be compared in any way with the other bulbs in terms of relative power dissipation level. However, his video shows that with a modest supply of 24V / 120W, a fairly impressive looking light show can be staged by video and his in my opinion match most of the self-running demos published by Ruslan, which are claimed to be devices with a much higher power than 100W or thereabouts. Running an equivalent rated grid powered bulb alongside as you suggest is not going to help much to estimate the power level of his load lamp, as the camera will compensate for the brightest lamp. The only practical way would be to use a scope or a calibrated light box and sensor to calculate accurate power levels.

[Dog-One]

Speaking of light show, I challenge you guys to try this little experiment...

Take two 110 volt lamps, pick the wattage you have available; just make sure they are both the same.

Connect them together in series and supply them with a 220 volt power source.


What you should witness (at least I have on several occasions) is these bulbs will appear rather dim, but check the power draw.  With two 60 watt bulbs connected this way, the total power draw from both of them will be 60 watts; obviously not 120 watts.  My point:  Even though they appear rather dim, the draw is pretty substantial because instead of generating a lot of light, they are still generating a lot of heat.


With where Geo is at, those light bulbs he is using are still a strong indication there is good power output, just not at the rating of the bulb.  If he can pull off a loop attempt, one dinky little bulb will be enough to prove energy from nothing (minus all the blood sweat and tears it took him to get there).