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Overunity Machines Forum



Friction heater running in my house

Started by oilpiggy, October 31, 2012, 02:25:24 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

SkyWatcher123

Hi folks, Hi oilpiggy, if you are still watching this thread, emailed you about what your cost is for one of your friction heater kits.
So, since no reply and it probably is not in my budget anyway, am building a model similar to yours, though without machining or welding.
Just picked up 6 plywood saw blades for the rotating plates 7 1/4" diameter blades.
Going to use high density fiberboard for stationary plates and ring spacers, they will be laminated with aluminum to sink the heat away from wood, through the oil and out to the aluminum roof flashing outer cylinder.
Shaft will be threaded rod with thick steel washers as spacers, then one nut on each end to compress and hold the rotating assembly together, avoiding need for keyed machined shaft.
Then when assembled, it can be inserted into cylinder with bearings at both ends.
Will be posting a cad drawing at other forum with pics to show progress and maybe here if anyone responds.
Idea is to make it cheap and still work well.
The paint can model worked well, 182 F. in 20 minutes, so with the much increased surface area of oilpiggys design and tighter gaps, this should crank some heat out, we will see.
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/14547-fuelless-friction-heater-other-heaters.html#post246342
peace love light
tyson

olddawgsrule

Very interested in your thoughts and direction!

Quote from: SkyWatcher123 on December 10, 2013, 01:19:13 AM
Hi folks, Hi oilpiggy, if you are still watching this thread, emailed you about what your cost is for one of your friction heater kits.
So, since no reply and it probably is not in my budget anyway, am building a model similar to yours, though without machining or welding.
Just picked up 6 plywood saw blades for the rotating plates 7 1/4" diameter blades.
Going to use high density fiberboard for stationary plates and ring spacers, they will be laminated with aluminum to sink the heat away from wood, through the oil and out to the aluminum roof flashing outer cylinder.
Shaft will be threaded rod with thick steel washers as spacers, then one nut on each end to compress and hold the rotating assembly together, avoiding need for keyed machined shaft.
Then when assembled, it can be inserted into cylinder with bearings at both ends.
Will be posting a cad drawing at other forum with pics to show progress and maybe here if anyone responds.
Idea is to make it cheap and still work well.
The paint can model worked well, 182 F. in 20 minutes, so with the much increased surface area of oilpiggys design and tighter gaps, this should crank some heat out, we will see.
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/14547-fuelless-friction-heater-other-heaters.html#post246342
peace love light
tyson

ingyenenergiagep


DaS Energy

If you wish to get heat from water friction, close the valve on a centrifugal pump. If you want to water the garden open the same valve. The more vanes you have passing through the water, the faster heating shall occur and also the power bill will go up faster .

oilpiggy

Sorry I did not get back to you, I do get a lot of emails and I do try to get back to all of them.

I have a new design with a VFD and a 3phase motor.  I think I have maybe 3 more days until its done and I will be able to start testing.

Try and send me a new email, I will be looking for it.

Thank you
Gabriel Peterson