Friction heater running in my house

[oilpiggy]

@oilpiggy,

*You* know whether your furnace device outputs extra heat energy or not because 1HP =~ 800Watts.
800Watts equals one half the heat output of one of those 1500Watt nichrome and plastic room heater/fans.
So 800Watts would not capable of heating a room much less a whole house. So you know whether this
device really works or not.

My Idea;

So let us assume oilpiggy's heater produces energy gain. I therefore propose this idea. It would be interesting
and neat to combine your furnace design with a ROV Rotoverter motor and generator overunity device like
depicted in the link;

http://www.peswiki.com/index.php/OS:Motor-Alternator_Self-Looped_System_by_Joe_Tomicki

The combined device should then be capable of outputing lots of heat while simultaneously recharging 1/2 its
battery bank so as to not require *any* utility connection.

Here are some benefits of this approach;

1) A single high efficiency (DC) motor is required for both processes.
2) The devices subsystem are sized as required for continuous operation.
3) No Utility Line Voltage is required since the energy loop is primarily distributed by mechanical shaft.
4) No Line Voltage inverter is required - no cost - no high voltages - unit will be extremely safe
5) A Large power off switch or Key switch would be required so the device doesn't accidently start up while in storage.
6) If... the deep cycle discharge batteries use room temperature heat to recharge - the furnace device's energy gain
     produces the extra heat required.
7) A remote thermostatic device of some type would be required.


Here is how I would build such the heater;
6 deep cycle discharge (marine trolling) batteries 3 in series to the drive motor 3 in parallel to recharge via the alternator.
6 CMOS NE555 configured as a VFC voltage to frequency converters to monitor each battery voltage independently
    without forming any DC groundloops.
1 custom constructed lucite plastic mercury tilt switches to reconfigure the batteries.
1 tilt switch is driven by small DC gearmotor. tilt left => battery bank 1 in parallel battery bank 2 in series
   tilt right => battery bank 2 in parallel battery bank 1 in series.
1 microcontroller processor - control for above.

Neat, Aye?

:S:MarkSCoffman

Hello Mark,

Well it looks like your going to have fun playing around with this.
The wattage that is being used to heat my house.... I guess I am not going to beat the dead horse but, It is heating my house for the amount of power I am stated. There is not much more to say about this.
I have posted my findings and now it is up to people to do it them self's I guess.
I do like your plans, Why don't you just run a DC motor like the UFO motor? Seems a lot less complicated.
Anyways at the end of the day my heating bill is still a hell of a lot cheaper then it was and that is all that matters to me.
Best wishes

Thank you
Gabriel

[oilpiggy]

Different materials may lend themselves to heating up better then others .they may also transfer heat to the liguid better then others. If your disks are performing some sort of induction heating effect from being magnatized and in motion against one another. You may want to investigate how you can or if you can include the effects of a homopolar dynomo motor gen arangment to. An oil filled cylinder would have the addvantage of using the oil as an insulator with motion giving capacitense to the alternate plates while they are turning.
   There is plenty of prior data from various sources wich could give you months experimenting with your device. Altimately to get it to put out the most heat with the least amount of input from the drive motor. Then there is always the chance you could trip over some other effect along the way that you could use elswhere.

Here is a video for ya http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzmHGmAqMJc  Im not sugjesting you go for this level of heat cause it would creap up to the motor and catch fire. I will see if I can locate the the dynomo study paper and pass that along to you once I find it. You can read Teslas notes on the unipolar dynomo yourself on the net. Phase shift tricks to lead in or recombine to increase work with out increasing input. Consumption becomes additive to input like recycling ,the shift in the phase of reinput seams to be that trick.

Thank you Doug1
It is worth looking into

[Doug1]

*You* know whether your furnace device outputs extra heat energy or not because 1HP =~ 800Watts.
800Watts equals one half the heat output of one of those 1500Watt nichrome and plastic room heater/fans.
So 800Watts would not capable of heating a room much less a whole house. So you know whether this
device really works or not.*

   When did HP become equal to BTU's? Even in terms of a compressor system the quality of the compressor should be accounted for against its power consumption.  If I apply 800 watts to a ceramic heater and 800 watts to a motor to make it turn when did the turning motor become a heat source? At the friction device I do believe. So how do you measure the effective results of the heater off the motor input or output when the motor is not the heat source?
   I guess heat recovery systems are not note worthy iether since the heat source was a 100% loss even if you manage to recover 60% of the heat that would be expelled into the atmosphere. Same math.

[Doug1]

I decided to look it up and sure enough 1 hp is equal to 2544.43 btu's How many btu's do you get from a nicrome heater in btu's?

[DeepCut]

Anyone in contact with Luc ?

I'm getting no replies on email or YT messages


Thanks,

DC.