Lynx Joule Inverter

Lynxsteam · December 10, 2012, 08:11:59 PM

Quote from: e2matrix on December 10, 2012, 07:29:25 PM
Wow.... Here's another one I like. I just hooked the bulb in series with the battery and the secondary (higher winds) of the transformer. Primary not hooked up to anything. The bulb lights but is dim. Then I short out the primary and it gets brighter. But here's the Wow part .... take the short off the primary and it stays bright - actually it gets just a little bit brighter when I remove the short - and as I mention below is actually drawing less current while brighter. Cool!

Also checked the current on this setup. When I short the primary the current draw on the battery is 16ma but when I take off the short it's 11 ma with NO change in brightness at all. OOPs I was wrong after taking a closer look again it actually gets BRIGHTER !! when I remove the short and is using LESS current !!! This part will be just the opposite depending on battery polarity. If your bulb gets dimmer doing this reverse the battery polarity.

That's a neat trick. Works well for me too. I have noticed that sometimes the Hz will vary. Sometimes I'll hook up and the AC off the other side will be twice as high. I think at higher frequency the spikes go higher. I have been experimenting to try and get the Hz up. Any ideas? I can almost light a standard dimmable LED off the isolated transformer winding. I think if the windings were 20:1 instead of 10:1 I could get it lit. Why? Why not?

Lynxsteam · December 10, 2012, 08:19:39 PM

Quote from: Djoko on December 10, 2012, 07:58:42 PM
Just to share,

Here picture of my homemade LED used in the above video. I think it is not a dimmable one.

Cheers

Djoko, very impressive video. Did you make that little LED driver? Is it a transformer and a capacitor? Do you think there is any advantage to lighting LEDs this way as opposed to just running off mains grid power?

e2matrix · December 10, 2012, 08:26:19 PM

A few more interesting results. I tried with a couple other transformers and got no light in any configuration. One was a toroidal power transformer. Then tried with a NST Franceformer brand - it is 12 kilovolt - so 100:1 ratio. It wouldn't work with power across the secondary in series with the bulb so I tried across the primary and it lit up. with nothing attached to the secondary. I read 538 volts across the secondary at 178 Hz. Touching just one wire of the secondary got a biting zap to my finger but I had the transformer sitting on my legs on top of heavy pants. Apparently that was enough to make a circuit - not painful but enough to know you are feeling a slightly uncomfortable voltage. So be careful with this depending on what transformer and battery you are using I imagine with moist hands you could be getting close to a dangerous voltage. Shorting the secondary with that transformer made the light brighter and was probably the brightest I saw in these setups. I measured current across the secondary after getting that little zap. It was about 0.59 microamps - list than 1 microamp. Not much but it bit a little

Djoko · December 10, 2012, 08:43:19 PM

Quote from: Lynxsteam on December 10, 2012, 08:19:39 PM
Djoko, very impressive video. Did you make that little LED driver? Is it a transformer and a capacitor? Do you think there is any advantage to lighting LEDs this way as opposed to just running off mains grid power?

Lynx, thank for the kind word. No I don't make it. This driver rated for 65 VAC ~ 265 VAC input. I got it from O/L store here in Indonesia, including the HPL LED Chip. For the emergency only. See, on 220 V x 0.018 mA = 3.96 W and on 36 VDC x 0.035 mA = 1.26 Watt. Actualy, I try your set-up (with various xformer) and it works, the I try other set-up/my set-up with out xformer.

e2matrix · December 10, 2012, 09:08:57 PM

Some more fun ... I decided that even thought the secondary on the NST was seeing only about 1/2 microamp I might light a bare CFL on it (just the FL bulb part of a CFL without any circuitry). It works with that 538 volts it lit but fairly dim - but still it was steady with only 0.59 microamps and the LED bulb was essentially the same brightness as a short on the secondary - probably 40 to 50 % of full 120 VAC brightness. It didn't want to light a CFL with the circuitry though - but when hooked into the circuit the LED still lit up like a short on the secondary.