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Overunity Machines Forum



Lynx Joule Inverter

Started by Lynxsteam, November 29, 2012, 12:42:40 PM

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Lynxsteam

Quote from: e2matrix on December 10, 2012, 08:26:19 PM
A few more interesting results.  I tried with a couple other transformers and got no light in any configuration.  One was a toroidal power transformer.  Then tried with a NST Franceformer brand - it is 12 kilovolt - so 100:1 ratio.    It wouldn't work with power across the secondary in series with the bulb so I tried across the primary and it lit up.  with nothing attached to the secondary.  I read 538 volts across the secondary at 178 Hz.   Touching just one wire of the secondary got a biting zap to my finger but I had the transformer sitting on my legs on top of heavy pants.  Apparently that was enough to make a circuit - not painful but enough to know you are feeling a slightly uncomfortable voltage.   So be careful with this depending on what transformer and battery you are using I imagine with moist hands you could be getting close to a dangerous voltage.   Shorting the secondary with that transformer made the light brighter and was probably the brightest I saw in these setups.  I measured current across the secondary after getting that little zap.  It was about 0.59 microamps - list than 1 microamp.  Not much but it bit a little  ;)

Great experimenting and information.  I tried torroids with no luck.  Only my largest aircores will work.  And yet a tiny audio transformer works well.

Please try something for me if you would.  I can almost light a 120 v LED bulb off the isolated winding kicking its pulses out.  It would flash and then fade.  There is very little amperage as you say.  But with high frequency and high voltage off your 100:1 transformer, perhaps.  And if you can light a bulb how does it affect the overall map draw?
Also try rectifying the extra AC output and use a high voltage cap across + and -.  In that way I could light another LED bulb.

Lynxsteam

Here's something very interesting.  (Prof Jones will like this) I had tried a tiny inductor (smaller than a penny) out of a gutted CFL circuit.  Its the two lead, wound, blue taped inductor.  Didn't work before.  Then I had wound seven turns of 26 awg magnet wire for the crossover circuit.  Anyway, it was laying there, so I tried it with 18 volts.  I had to clip the lead on to the small PC mount.  Didn't light at first, then instant on and Heat!  Not the temperature kind.  Radiant heat that penetrates at around 1/2"-3/4" surrounding the transformer.  The bulb draws 95 ma off this little transformer.  Shorting the primary, the draw is 80ma.  685 hz.
The seven turns works as well, 91 ma with the secondary open.  82 ma with secondary shorted, then no difference, 82 ma.

e2matrix

Quote from: Lynxsteam on December 10, 2012, 09:14:51 PM
Great experimenting and information.  I tried torroids with no luck.  Only my largest aircores will work.  And yet a tiny audio transformer works well.

Please try something for me if you would.  I can almost light a 120 v LED bulb off the isolated winding kicking its pulses out.  It would flash and then fade.  There is very little amperage as you say.  But with high frequency and high voltage off your 100:1 transformer, perhaps.  And if you can light a bulb how does it affect the overall map draw?
Also try rectifying the extra AC output and use a high voltage cap across + and -.  In that way I could light another LED bulb.

Spent much of the evening playing with this circuit (other room from computer) but done for the night now.   I did rectify the 538 volts coming off the HV side and tried feeding it back to the battery.  I tried an Avramenko setup also which was able to rapidly charge a 400 volt cap in about 10 to 15 seconds.   Tried all kinds of things but was afraid to put my one other LED light bulb across that output as it was around 398 volts DC.   And that particular LED bulb would not work in the circuit at all hooked up like I had the good one.   I had grounds hooked up, antenna's and so on.  Off that 12 volt Nicad pack which is probably a bit smaller than the size of a baseball I was at the point where it would take 15 minutes or so to drop .01 volts.   I also tried a fence charger transformer (I assume a fairly high ratio) which worked well only in series with the primary but had a fairly large current draw and was dropping the battery voltage fast.    I may try more tomorrow but things are looking fairly busy the next couple weeks.   Fun circuit and will try more as time allows.  Thanks Lynxsteam for letting us in on this one!

Forgot to mention one other odd thing I tried.  A few days ago I wound a nice 4" ferrite toroid with some very fine Litz wire in a Caduceus style.  So it has just two ends.  I hooked those in series with the battery and LED bulb and it lit up bright.  But it was pulling the battery down fairly quick.   

Lynxsteam

Since all these circuits we work on are somewhat related to Joule Thiefs in one way or another, I wonder if using LS' and Gadget's idea of diodes across the primary/secondary would be interesting.  My guess is that it clips the time the transformer and transistor can conduct DC, and yet gives off the high voltage spike.

I would also guess most of the JT circuitry is already in this GE 3A15 LED bulb.  So by adding a transformer, diodes, capacitor and power source we may come close to the crossover.  I have run these bulbs off capacitor only, but not for as long as what LS is doing.  But I don't have super caps either.

synchro1

@Lynxstream,

                  I broke a damaged 120 volt LED open to look inside. Your right, all the same componants we use in our JT'S, tiny transformer, rectifier, capacitors diodes and resistors!