Overunity.com Archives is Temporarily on Read Mode Only!



Free Energy will change the World - Free Energy will stop Climate Change - Free Energy will give us hope
and we will not surrender until free energy will be enabled all over the world, to power planes, cars, ships and trains.
Free energy will help the poor to become independent of needing expensive fuels.
So all in all Free energy will bring far more peace to the world than any other invention has already brought to the world.
Those beautiful words were written by Stefan Hartmann/Owner/Admin at overunity.com
Unfortunately now, Stefan Hartmann is very ill and He needs our help
Stefan wanted that I have all these massive data to get it back online
even being as ill as Stefan is, he transferred all databases and folders
that without his help, this Forum Archives would have never been published here
so, please, as the Webmaster and Creator of these Archives, I am asking that you help him
by making a donation on the Paypal Button above.
You can visit us or register at my main site at:
Overunity Machines Forum



Has anyone seen Lasersabers new motor runs on 1000uf cap

Started by Magluvin, May 25, 2013, 03:49:05 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 6 Guests are viewing this topic.

Farmhand

Quote from: conradelektro on May 30, 2013, 01:54:34 AM
@Farmhand: I was just thinking, how can one adjust the ON-time with Reed switch? To everybody, any ideas? Iron shield (slit)?

@Wattsup: I will try the Reed switch in the middle of the coils as you suggested.

I tried a diode at the capacitor (both directions, both sides of the capacitor). But it did nothing once the battery or power supply was disconnected.
I tried with this schematics http://www.overunity.com/13523/has-anyone-seen-lasersabers-new-motor-runs-on-1000uf-cap/msg361768/#msg361768

Will be back on Monday.

Greetings, Conrad

Hi Conrad, Gyula and Tinsel give good advice there about the reeds, however I always find that the most reliable, flexible and convenient way is to just get a good of a signal as possible from the reed or "other trigger" (and make it "the trigger" so it can be moved), then I process the signal so I can get whatever pulse width I want as well as change from a 5 volt logic signal to 10 or 12 volts signals ect.

Planning and making the small board takes some time but once you have it it can be used for many things, ie, with my CD4047 circuit I can get retriggering, manual pulse width control blanking pulses for shutdown ect.. One small circuit I use to clean up the sensor signal and make two signals from it, an inverted and a non inverted signal, then another small circuit takes whichever of those signals I use and processes it into a pulse width adjusted signal for the mosfet driver chip, the mosfets are on that board as well, for low frequency one driver chip can drive multiple mosfets ( the sensor could be any type, hall, reed, optical interrupter or photo reflector ect.).  with a small addition to the board, it could use the complimentary outputs from the CD4047 chip for a two phase output but I use the "osc out" pin (not the complimentary outputs), because the complimentary outputs are half frequency.  Alternatively the the processed pulse could be put through a flip flop circuit which can send each second pulse to a different switch for a second switching phase in "anti phase" to the first, like a push pull type inverter output but alternating rectangle shape pulses, ( for either AC purposes or just a second 180 degree phase.) I'll add that when I need it.

I have the flip flop circuit drawing somewhere, but all these small circuits plug together or are on the same board and can couple with microprocessors for some automation, very useful boards because with adjustments for frequency and using the diode trick I can get very narrow pulse widths ect. I recommend the "CMOS Cookbook" by Don Lancaster.

At the moment for my motor I use 5 mosfets, 2 IC's, 4 mosfet driver chips, a picaxe micro and there are three indicator LED's, all up the control circuitry uses about 50 mA or so from the 12 volt battery supply, the motor can run spinning the 580 gram rotor  at over 1000 rpm, with about 150 mA from the 12 volt battery.

I've got some very good efficiency to show soon, with my motor running a fan blade with better efficiency and pushing more air (bigger fan and faster) than a bought 18 Watt fan in good condition of similar size that is fairly efficient, while at the same time my motor can light 30 x 5 mm LEDs from generator coils and charge a battery with released inductive energy which I am now putting into a big cap and switching through the load, be it battery or whatever, this can produce pulsations of over 2.5 amperes and all with only 15 Watts input or so. The motor can use up to 40 Watts no problems for other loads.

Everything is working well and there is no heat to speak of in any part of the circuit even after many hours of continuous use.

I would take the time to build a hardware signal processing board, using hardware signal processing is faster than micro processing signals with software involved.

I think I linked the two circuits before, but here again, these circuits are not perfect and could use customizing for individual needs, there should be many who can assist anyone with improvements.

Almost all of my circuits could be miniaturized and improved, but the principal works. Using these kinds of signal processing the mosfets have no choice but to turn on and off properly which greatly improves the performance efficiency wise. Number one priority when using transistors as switches is that they must turn on and off quickly and cleanly so as not to spray energy during slow transitions.

Cheers

gyulasun

Quote from: Magluvin on May 29, 2013, 10:32:55 PM

....
Im still bungled by the diode in series with the coil, reed and cap.
....

Hi Mags,

Just my speculation,  perhaps Lasersaber buried one more reed and one more diode in the motor structure, then using the schematic in the link (very first post by Lanenal) the capacitor charging from the flyback pulses becomes possible:
http://www.overunity.com/5446/a-self-charging-adams-motor/msg123037/#msg123037   
Of course, careful adjustments for the reeds are needed to insure their simultanous switch ON or OFF operation, not an impossible task.  In the schematic a double reed is mentioned and I know Lasersaber referred to single reed type (SPST) as a substitute for his older reed type used.  Obviously a double reed can be substituted with two single reeds.

Hopefully he will reveal his schematic used, sooner or later.

Gyula

Magluvin

Quote from: TinselKoala on May 30, 2013, 10:47:55 AM
I thought I had already posted the fact that a reed switch can be "tuned" by using a small fixed magnet on the opposite side of the switch from the moving triggering magnets. You can get almost complete control over the duty cycle of a reed switch by carefully choosing and moving this bias magnet until you get the reed performance you need. Also, putting a small ceramic cap directly across the reed as close as possible to the switch will help to preserve your switch contacts and doesn't cost anything (much) energetically.

The cap in Lasersaber's video is marked 10K 100. A poly film cap of that size cannot possibly be 10 microFarads. Looking on the internet for capacitor marking codes, I find that the "K" means thousands of picofarads. So 10K means 10 thousand picofarads, or 10 nanoFarads, or 0.01 microFarads.
http://www.electronic-circuits-diagrams.com/tutorials/capacitors.shtml

The energy stored in a 0.01 uF cap at 100 volts is (0.00000001)x(100)x(100)/2 Joules == not very much, 0.00005 Joules. From previous experience with jewelled pivot bearings and magnet rotors, I'll estimate that the power dissipation of that little rotor at the speeds we are seeing is on the order of only a couple of milliWatts. Maybe even less, hundreds of microWatts perhaps. Or even less.... since the cap seems to be able to accelerate the rotor from slow, and keep it running for tens of seconds.
It would be nice to see some instrumental data. The rotor could be spun up to a known RPM then allowed to run down, unpowered, and carefully timed. The average of a dozen such runs to the same RPM would be a number that could be relied upon. The rotational Moment of Inertia of the rotor can be easily calculated if the weights of the components are known. This value along with the RPM will give the energy stored in rotation, and the average rundown time will then give an average power dissipation value over that RPM range. Then the testing with the cap could commence. Use the air blast to run the rotor to a known RPM again with the cap switched out of the circuit. Then switch in the cap and time the rundown time. The difference in the powered vs unpowered rundowns will allow you to see how efficient the capacitor really is, whether the system is putting any energy back into the cap while it's running down, and will allow you to determine whether or not any further mods help or hurt.

"The cap in Lasersaber's video is marked 10K 100. A poly film cap of that size cannot possibly be 10 microFarads."

hmm, your gunna have to recheck that. I have 3 caps in front of me, one a white box plastic and 2 blue drop caps, the blues say 4.7k and 22k both 100v and the white says 8,2k 100v and they read as uf respectively.

So you might want to redo those calculations. ;D

Mags

Farmhand

Quote from: gyulasun on May 30, 2013, 02:34:23 PM
Hi Mags,

Just my speculation,  perhaps Lasersaber buried one more reed and one more diode in the motor structure, then using the schematic in the link (very first post by Lanenal) the capacitor charging from the flyback pulses becomes possible:
http://www.overunity.com/5446/a-self-charging-adams-motor/msg123037/#msg123037   
Of course, careful adjustments for the reeds are needed to insure their simultanous switch ON or OFF operation, not an impossible task.  In the schematic a double reed is mentioned and I know Lasersaber referred to single reed type (SPST) as a substitute for his older reed type used.  Obviously a double reed can be substituted with two single reeds.

Hopefully he will reveal his schematic used, sooner or later.

Gyula

Hi Gyula, If you take away the supply from the battery to the coils in this setup of mine but leave the switching circuit for the motor switches running, then spin the rotor it generates electricity, then switches it through the motor coils producing an inductive return back to the supply line.  :) Or through a battery if desired. It works as a generator and coil shorter/motor if the rotor is spun. If already running it takes a long time to run down and stop if the switches are kept switching but the power is cut to the coils. My motor doesn't like to run very slow (less than 500 rpm) so it can't run very slowly or it would go longer.

However it could never run itself. But it is definitely the way to efficiency.

Cheers

P.S. I've found the best place for the MC2 (charging coil) to be placed at the rotor is halfway between point "A" and the MC1-2 motor coil, or 90 degrees or so lagging in electrical phase to the motor coils, I think is another way to say it.

..

Magluvin

Quote from: TinselKoala on May 30, 2013, 12:01:36 PM
@Mags:
Disconnect the capacitor and diode from the coils, and spin the rotor while monitoring the coil output on the scope. The rotor magnets passing the coils makes AC, right?

How are you going to charge up a capacitor with AC, unless you also have a rectifier in series with the cap?

Further.... if the diode conducts in both directions.... it's not a diode. A 1n60 germanium would probably handle the strain OK and act as a rectifier with low forward voltage. A Schottky diode might work even better.

Here is the issue. In the second vid, he said that all parts are in series. All the coils in series are also in series with the cap, then the reed, then the germanium diode. Can you see my drift? ;)   Sure the cap will charge, but once it does, then what?  ???

I was a true believer before the introduction of the diode in the second vid. Now all that is left to believe in is that the motor coils use soooo little from the cap to run the motor, and if that were so, the cap would need precharging to run the motor.

But in the 2nd vid, he says the cap, being 100 times smaller than the 1st vid cap, charges to much higher voltages, and im assuming he is talking about the motor is generating that voltage when he spins it up faster. 

So my question is, with all components in series, does the motor only use the energy from the cap or only charge it? That series diode is a one way street, no?

Thats why Im nuts right now. Or like I said, that diode is bad or has a breakover voltage that the motor is able to generate.

I wish he would come out with more details.  I can build this to spec and better by hand. But im not putting a penny into it till all is shown. I have enough experience to know what ideas are worth putting time into vs time and cost, according to how much info is available.   Like "oh I need to get a roll of 42awg as soon as possible".  Na, not yet. I dont even know if he will show anything more yet and might have stuff sitting on the bench for who knows how long. 

Ill do the work. And when im done it will be a beautiful piece of work. But I need more before I begin. Those coils will take time. That wire is like hair just about.  Cant use much tension, and backing off to correct a wind that went off course, etc.

Mags