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Overunity Machines Forum



Has anyone seen Lasersabers new motor runs on 1000uf cap

Started by Magluvin, May 25, 2013, 03:49:05 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 7 Guests are viewing this topic.

TinselKoala

Quote from: webby1 on June 02, 2013, 09:28:25 AM
Not unless it is fashioned in the correct shape :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUD78P7pzvY#t=1h22m30s

The link should take you to 1 hour 22 minutes 30 seconds into the video.

wattsup

@LaserSaber

Thanks again for all your works. I need you to please bear with me in one instance so we can remove all possible doubts that may occur now or in the future. We need to get all the possible potential objections out of the way on the outset.

So here goes regarding your last video using the polycap and germanium diode.

From what we can see, you put small lengths of copper wire between the coil posts so you can then solder the wires coming from the two coils sharing that copper wire.

The problem arises, well not a problem but more of an uncertainty arises at the coil post that is also the top bridge to hold the rotor shaft in place. I am showing it below where you have the cap and diode and the copper wire going from left to right (right is the bridge post) as there is a second copper wire going inside the bridge post that you connected to the diode. This leaves that part open to possible speculations that is unnecessary for such a simple device.

So what I am asking is can you please make a 1 minute video showing the same EZ motor turning but snip the copper wire where I show an "X". This will remove all hassles and show that the device is exactly in series, coils to reed to cap to diode to coils.

Thanks a heep if you can do this.

wattsup

PS: I know from your intent to make such a clean and open build that you are not playing games but I think this one little aspect should be addressed. Once you can do that, then we can put @Magluvin's apprehension to rest and move forward to explain how such a wheel can function with a series diode. I think I know why but I need the above to be addressed first just for clarity.

TinselKoala

Is that a peanut-butter jar lid for the rotor? Great minds think alike..... I did the same thing for my example Bedini SGM build.

Would somebody remind me please... how many magnets in the rotor, and are they all oriented same pole out?

wattsup

Quote from: TinselKoala on June 02, 2013, 03:52:55 PM
Is that a peanut-butter jar lid for the rotor? Great minds think alike..... I did the same thing for my example Bedini SGM build.

Would somebody remind me please... how many magnets in the rotor, and are they all oriented same pole out?

@TK, @TK, @TK

The rotor was 3D printed with the round magnet recesses built in.

There are 6 magnets on the rotor all N out, and there are either 6 or 12 coils that are NSNSNS or NSNSNSNSNSNS.

Now imagine if that rotor was a flat plate with a thin rim rising on the outer radius that held the magnets, then you could also put coils on the inside of the rotor rim and use the south polarities as well.

wattsup


TinselKoala

Quote from: wattsup on June 02, 2013, 04:31:16 PM
@TK, @TK, @TK

The rotor was 3D printed with the round magnet recesses built in.

Heh.... well, I'm sure it would make a fine peanut butter jar lid, too.

Quote

There are 6 magnets on the rotor all N out, and there are either 6 or 12 coils that are NSNSNS or NSNSNSNSNSNS.

OK, got it, understood, thanks. I tried all possible arrangements with Orbette's generator coils and also settled on one polarity out and alternating gen coil polarities.

Quote
Now imagine if that rotor was a flat plate with a thin rim rising on the outer radius that held the magnets, then you could also put coils on the inside of the rotor rim and use the south polarities as well.

wattsup
Or that the coils were on curved C- cores, like toroids with a gap, and the rotor magnets passed through the gap.

Ah, the 3-d printer is making my machining skills obsolete. Especially when I don't even have my machine tools handy.
:'(