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Overunity Machines Forum



Heating water using joule Thief?

Started by tom5200, November 05, 2013, 04:28:13 AM

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tom5200

Found on a russian site some strange circuit  https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B7F-FDpM1lG-SXJsRDctN1B6VlE/edit?usp=drive_web page 69 can someone please tell if it might work kind regard if u need translation please ask

TinselKoala

The circuit is the basic JT circuit with some different values. My own "JT Test Bed" uses the same circuit, the same transistor, but has a 13+13 turn coil where these schematics have 11+11 turns; my circuit uses 1K base resistor and 70 nF base capacitor switched in or out. The extra diode on the output is similar to how I get my Neon JTs to light up with high voltage outputs. The nichrome heater wire will heat a little bit. The secondary winding on the toroid shown in the second schematic will light up a LED. I don't know about using a 1-Watt LED here but it will probably light up well.
The circuits will "work", for certain values of "work". Will there be a lot of heat in the coil, more than you would expect from the battery power alone? I don't know but I doubt it. But the basic circuit will work and illuminate the LEDs, that much is easy to verify.
A 600 Farad capacitor? I don't have anything like that, but such a cap, if fully charged to 2.7 volts, will run an LED for a long time. The heating coil... probably not so long.
The germanium diodes 1n34 or 1n60 may not be able to withstand the spike voltages that this circuit can generate.

Both the uploaded images seem to be the same. Is there a difference I'm not seeing?

tom5200

K thanks for reply the same image my first post here  i already have a working joule thief for around 2 months now never recharged lighting 4 leds do u know any working tesla switches circuits ? http://www.free-energy.hu/pajert62/Tesla_Battery_Switch_2.PGFED.pdf so slight change u could heat water with 1.6v?

TinselKoala

Quote from: tom5200 on November 05, 2013, 01:18:36 PM
K thanks for reply the same image my first post here  i already have a working joule thief for around 2 months now never recharged lighting 4 leds do u know any working tesla switches circuits ? http://www.free-energy.hu/pajert62/Tesla_Battery_Switch_2.PGFED.pdf so slight change u could heat water with 1.6v?

I think the claims made for these kinds of circuits have not really been verified to be true. Many many people have built various Bedini circuits and have ruined many good batteries using them; the same is true for "tesla switch" circuits. And I'm not sure that Tesla himself ever actually spoke of circuits like this. Can you give me a reference in Tesla's own work that I can review?
The terminal voltage of a battery, especially the lead-acid chemistries perferred by Bedini-builders, is not a good indication of the state of charge of the battery and rarely gives you a true reading of the energy stored in the battery.

I have a JT circuit sitting on my bench right now, the legalizeShemp circuit, that isn't currently lighting the LEDs, but continues to oscillate in bursts and has been doing so for three or four weeks now, running on a tiny depleted AG3 button cell battery that is varying between 0.32 volts (when oscillating) and about 0.42 volts (when recovered, just about to start oscillation.) I have it hooked to a frequency counter and an accurate DMM and it's fun to watch the voltage rise and fall, and the oscillations start and stop. When I heat the tiny AG3 battery up with a soldering iron, the voltage rises to over 0.62 volts and the 4 blue LEDs come on again for a few minutes until the battery voltage drops below the LED threshold. But the burst oscillations continue, the silly thing refuses to die. But the voltage in the battery rises only when the circuit is not oscillating.

sm0ky2

Resonance
When it comes to the joule thief, this term is often misused, inadequately defined, taken out of context, and vastly undervalued.

Resonance of the torroid:
Each ceramic ring has a natural resonant frequency.
This is either determined by the manufacturers specs, or from the materials density and the size and thickness of the core.
This is very important, it is the easiest frequency at which the core will oscillate both physically and magnetically. Meaning at this frequency there are the least amount of losses from charging the core.

Resonance of the coil: this is calculated using the thickness, number of turns, materials, and diameter of the coil. The coil should ideally be specced to match the resonant frequency of the torroid.

Resonance of the switching circuit:
This is when you carefully "tune" the  voltage, transistor and resistance, until you attain a resonant frequency of core/coil.

When all three of these frequencies are resonant,
Meaning the are the same frequency or resonant octaves of one another, the joule thief will operate at maximum efficiency.

Primary, secondary, or more pickup coils can then be added to power various loads, such as lights, heaters, motors, etc.

You can daisy chain multiple JTs through inductive coupling to step up current and/or voltage. Resonance of subsequent JT circuits, when powered by a pickup coil, is less important in most applications. But not to be ignored in terms of load current, losses, delays, capacitance, and general trouble shooting.

This is the most important concept to grasp.
And is what takes your research from being a novelty transformer for low voltage sources to the next level.


I was fixing a shower-rod, slipped and hit my head on the sink. When i came to, that's when i had the idea for the "Flux Capacitor", Which makes Perpetual Motion possible.