Reactive power - Reactive Generator research from GotoLuc - discussion thread

[dklyne]

Hi Stefan and everyone

I made this video as per Stefan request to see in fine details (scope) the power to the generator prime mover when the circuit is connector or disconnected.

Link to video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yudbBBSS58&feature=youtu.be

Luc

Nice work Luc.    Good video and very clear.  Its time for me to start looking at a generator output coupling to my motor. 
your 15ohm load sure had ZERO lenz effect that i could see.  Nice test.

Hi to AllCanadian and everyone here by the way... great forums and i'll be sticking around here.

Peace and love and good happiness stuff.
L&L

[gotoluc]

Nice work Luc.    Good video and very clear.  Its time for me to start looking at a generator output coupling to my motor. 
your 15ohm load sure had ZERO lenz effect that i could see.  Nice test.

Hi to AllCanadian and everyone here by the way... great forums and i'll be sticking around here.

Peace and love and good happiness stuff.
L&L

Glad you enjoyed the video Darcy

I'm thinking your large floor sander motor is about on of the best motors for this application, since what I'm starting to conclude is the lower the Resistance of the coils in the Motor and the Alternator the more mechanical output power you can get out. Higher resistance coils will turn reactive power to heat. That cold be good if you want to make a reactive water heater but no good if you want to get max power output.

I'm quite sure I reached my limit at 30 Watts without effect to prime mover on my 1000 watt alternator head.

So get as large of an Alternator as you can so that once you get it turning you may have some extra power left.

Find an old one that may have engine problems so you can get it for next to nothing. Also, make sure it has 220v as you may find high voltage a benefit.

All the best in your hunt.

L&L

Luc

[dklyne]

Hi Luc.  The hunt is over.  lol

This 6250watt electric generator (with 220VAC as well) is actually brand new and has never seen gasoline or ran at all to be honest.  The motor is rigged with a Geet-like feed back from the manifold and a low pressure propane conversion kit to be run on an exclusive diet of pure H2.  I've got 3 - 24volt separator cells that are now blowing the slip connectors off the system with unrestricted flow pressure.  A good problem to have, but in order to run the system i need to upgrade all my fittings to Stainless steel quick connectors and new end plates.  Those fittings are about a $1500 bill (bad problem to have)  So it will be awhile before i can use that motor for what it was intended for.  Might become inconsequential?

I just purchased a welder a few months back so i should be able to tack on a shaft and mount the sander motor on to that frame.  Hopefully those new 5uf caps from ebay will be quick too because i need about 30 more microfarad to bring that voltage at the motor up to 110 VAC. 

I have 2 more good probes for my oscilloscope on the way as well and along with the hall effect current sensor rigs i'll be able to do some normal readings soon too.

Your video got me excited i couldn't sleep again.  lol  I really just want to say that i am very grateful for this line of experimentation Luc.  I've noticed that the first few views on both our last videos had a couple thumbs down immediately after loading them???  curious.

Super stuff! 
L&L

[gotoluc]

Hi Darcy,

glad you're having fun and enjoying the experiments!

As for adding more caps!... this may not be the correct way to boost your motor voltage. There is an ideal cap value and I think in your first video you were not far from it.

To boost your motor voltage just raise your input voltage. Did you not noticed when you raise your variac voltage the input Watts don't change (in the way you would expect)  but look at the motor voltage, it should be going up.
That's why I say a 220v gen head maybe better.

Also, about your motor. You need to measure its RPM, since the Alternator head will need 3600 RPM to produce Voltage and correct frequency. You will want to get chain sprockets (low losses compared to belt sprockets) to double (if not more) the speed of your motor shaft.

All the best

L&L

Luc

[picowatt]

Glad you enjoyed the video Darcy

I'm thinking your large floor sander motor is about on of the best motors for this application, since what I'm starting to conclude is the lower the Resistance of the coils in the Motor and the Alternator the more mechanical output power you can get out. Higher resistance coils will turn reactive power to heat. That cold be good if you want to make a reactive water heater but no good if you want to get max power output.

I'm quite sure I reached my limit at 30 Watts without effect to prime mover on my 1000 watt alternator head.

So get as large of an Alternator as you can so that once you get it turning you may have some extra power left.

Find an old one that may have engine problems so you can get it for next to nothing. Also, make sure it has 220v as you may find high voltage a benefit.

All the best in your hunt.

L&L

Luc

Luc,

As always, you provide us with very interesting and well done experiments!

As food for thought, consider the possibility that the internal regulation circuitry of the alternator might dissipate an additional 30 watts when unloaded.

Have you attempted to lightly load the alternator with a resistive load (< 30 watts) to see what effect that has on the prime mover?

Consider performing an experiment with the alternator loaded at 30-50 watts resistive and then attaching your circuit across that load to see if the additional load of your circuit is then reflected by the prime mover.

Good stuff Luc...

PW