Selfcharging cap circuit from Larskro fake or real ?

[Pirate88179]

Not quite the "exact same". Your cap has both terminals on one side, as does mine of that style (mine are 1 F though.) Larskro's cap has one terminal on each end, I think.

I don't know if what he's showing is the same "capacitor recovery" effect I showed with the "TKBloomer" circuit, where the supercap's voltage is seen to be rising, while the LED is lit, even though no power is being supplied externally.

I believe it is the same.  I think both leads are on the same side.  Otherwise, why would the connections seen in this photo (sorry for the poor quality) show connections off to one side?  If the leads were on opposite sides then they would be located in the center no?  The only wire I see here on the other side goes to one of the leds.

Of course, I could be wrong...it does happen.

Bill

PS  Even if the leads are on opposite sides of the cap, the specs that Groundloop gave for the cap match mine exactly.  You and I and many others can light 2 leds using a simple basic JT circuit running off that supercap for many, many hours.

[Pirate88179]

TK:

I think you should post a link here to your video where you light an LED using just a very low Farad cap, (I forget the value but it was very small and you only charged it with a 9 volt bat.) a resistor, and an LED.

I am still amazed by this and, it might show that what is happening here is not all that amazing.  (Unless I am missing something.)

Bill

[TinselKoala]

Maybe. I have a couple of one-Farad 5.5V caps in that same format, but with a green sleeve instead of black. I can't recall seeing them float up in charge recovery while powering a load in any circuit I've tried them on, though. I suppose I should see if they will do that in the TKBloomer circuit like the 10F cap does.

Maybe the rotor/reedswitch loop thing serves to slow down the action so that pulse amplitude can build. That might be the answer to Farmhand's question about why not make the whole thing solid-state with no moving parts.

The 1000 uF cap, resistor and LED video you mention is just  a response to the dim LED, microamp current setups. I hate using resistors in these circuits because they just waste power. But it does show that you can get pretty long runtimes just from trickling straight DC through a superbright type LED. I changed the resistor from 22k to 47k; this gives a dimmer initial light but longer total runtime ... if "running" seriously just means making a detectable glow in the LED.

[Hoppy]

Here is a clip showing the wires soldered directly to the metal case. The connection tab appears to be unused and covered in red ink - positve connection? However, the wires may just appear to be soldered onto the case from the camera angle. There could be a thin wire leading off the end of the tag going round to the other side of the cap / battery - its difficult to be sure.

[Groundloop]

Here is a clip showing the wires soldered directly to the metal case. The connection tab appears to be unused and covered in red ink - positve connection?

Hoppy,

Thank you for the image. In this image I can see the flat spot of the LEDs
are going to minus in the circuit, so I think I got my circuit drawing correct
as far as the LED orientation goes.

GL.