Partnered Output Coils - Free Energy

[MileHigh]

Well, since there is a sense of somewhat of an impasse, I will offer some suggestions for the experts to ponder and if they decide to run with any of them they can flesh out the details for Tinman.

Double-check the batteries in all of the meters.  I am pretty sure there is a "twilight zone" for digital multimeters where they measure voltage incorrectly but the low battery warning is not showing on the displays.   I know some meter swapping has been done but check it anyway.

There are many low-pass filtering strategies to consider.  The conundrum is that the input measurement looks good.  I think that people have more confidence in the output measurement, so the input measurement needs to be attacked again.  So I would suggest trying an alternative method to low-pass filter the input measurement.

I have always been fond of the "current bleeder" approach, although I have never actually done it.  Get a big coke-can electrolytic, 10,000 or 20,000 uF.   Take a variable power supply and feed current into the coke can through a fixed higher-wattage resistor.  Something like this:  When the motor is running, the bench supply is at 15 volts, and current flows into the coke can via the bleeder resistor.  The coke can is at 12 volts, your desired voltage.  The coke can outputs power to the motor, and you keep the other filtering components in place.  For sure Tinman has all sorts of wound coils floating around, and he could use one in between the coke can output and the rest of the filtering.  So that would be your big dumb low-pass filter, including an inline coil to block any high frequencies getting back to the coke can.

So your current measurement is based on the voltage across the bleeder resistor.   Your voltage measurement for your power source is the coke can voltage.  To be really safe, use heavy gauge wires between the coke can setup and the rest of the device under test that are about 12 inches long.  The rationale is that you can keep the pair of multimeters monitoring the coke can voltage and current away from the the motor.

So when you turn on the motor, you just have to wait 20-30 seconds to tweak the voltage on the bench power supply to give you the desired "power supply" voltage and to wait for the bleeder current flow to stabilize.

If you can't measure the input power with that setup properly, I will pack it all in.

Likewise, because of the desire to go the extra distance, do something similar for the light bulb load.  For example, you could replace the light bulb with the equivalent resistor, in parallel with the same decoupling scheme that you have now, and also use a 12-inch length of wire to physically displace the load away from the motor.  In this case you do not need a multimeter to measure the current flow, all that you need is to measure the voltage across the resistor/capacitor that emulates the light bulb load.

So, you have three multimeters, and they are all at least 12 inches away from the motor because of the potential RF issues.  The "power supply" for the system is just a big fat dumb coke can capacitor.   Just a few simple number crunches will give you the (hopefully) unmolested input and output power.

Now if that shows over unity, then I pass off the baton either to the entering of the Age of Aquarius, or to our resident experts that know more than me for another test.

MileHigh

[synchro1]

He has already tried that. The motor stalls.

If you are suggesting to do that while the bulb is connected, it's no use because the bulb voltage is only about 10V.

Tinman needs to transform the ouput to a voltage higher then the battery voltage, or it will act as a load and sap the input. This is why the motor stalled. A "Joule Thief" would help turn that around.

[poynt99]

Tinman needs to transform the ouput to a voltage higher then the battery voltage, or it will act as a load and sap the input. This is why the motor stalled. A "Joule Thief" would help turn that around.

Yes,

I already suggested that Brad try a boosting DC to DC converter. (See above)

[woopy]

Hi Tinman

Today ,i dismantled my third AC/DC motor , so i can make comparison of the  modifications  one after the other on each of the motor to see what brings more.

I have got the shorting of the B coil ,with a transistor and also with a fet, but no improvement on the A coil output, i would say that the output is slightly less when the B coil is in shorting mode.

Than i tried the shaping of the brushes and the timing but i do not get your results.

Than i tested the magnetic field all around the rotor with compass to see where and how it propagates in order to grasp your magnetic field bucking idea.

I tried different brushes and also tungsten rods.

I have to say that all this experiments are of very high grade of learning to me. I also got so high voltage spikes with my tungsten rods that i fried the channel 1 of my scope ouups !!

But so far no good results on the 3 standard "universal motor" as they are originally.

So i am thinking of rewinding one of the stator coil in counter winding with respect to the other coil (bucking coil) ??

Or eventually rewind the rotor winding to get each coil connected to one dedicated  commutator's segment and so be separated from the other and not be serial connected, so the flyback power will not be dissipated in the serial rotor winding.

Or perhaps both

Voila, so far my results

Laurent

[synchro1]

@Tinman,

This simple voltage doubling circuit between the bulb wires and battery should work fine!