Basic Free Energy Device

[Dbowling]

spirit,
I already posted the schematic at the end of the video, but it is attached. The boost circuit can be found here http://www.ebay.com/itm/171151982059?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT  NOTICE there is NO connection to the Ground Out on the Boost circuit. That is correct.


Bill,
Can you connect the output of a generator to the motor running it and loop the system? That is what you are asking me to do here, and it won't work here either. So for the THIRD TIME, this device is comprised of TWO SEPARATE circuits.
One is the generator circuit....and do as you will with the output of THAT.
The other is the circuit that runs the motor. It requires (for now) batteries. If those batteries are connected as I suggest, and rotated as I suggest, the system (or at least for the purposes of demonstrating that this is for REAL) is self sustaining. The batteries, as they are rotated, begin to slightly increase in charge. Now, I have NO DOUBT, that with continued use over a long period of time the batteries WILL drop off a little in charge, at which point you WOULD need to tap some of the generated output to top them off. But that would require a more complex circuit, as would automatic switching of the batteries. In fact, if you want to get "real" about this setup, you need THREE sets of two batteries, because the batteries that have just been charged need to rest.


But I brought to this forum the most simple example I possibly could of this circuit that costs the LEAST amount of money to replicate in the hopes that many folks would become interested and replicate the thing. I have on my bench a setup that has a 12 coil generator run by a razor scooter motor (Not a stock motor as I suggested here, but a modified pulse motor that I rewound) that I have spent over $2,000.00 developing, and it needs to be rebuilt yet again to address the last of the issues I have been attempting to solve in order to build the most efficient system possible, and it will run on this circuit with the modifications I talked about....automatic switching and topping off the batteries. In fact, the thing is so big and the magnetic lock between the magnets and coil cores is so great, that additional circuitry had to be designed to run it as a motor until it is up to speed and the pulse motor can take over, and then it switches to the generator mode. But I didn't bring THAT monster to this forum. I brought the simple device that anyone can build for proof of concept. Or they can save the $3.53 plus shipping that a boost module will cost them and miss out on the opportunity to learn a few things about running loads on the potential difference like Tesla showed us with the Tesla switch, which is basically what this is. This works. Whether YOU choose to believe it or not really doesn't matter. SOME people will, and they will build it.
Already folks are replicating it and having success...http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/19774-basic-free-energy-device-24.html
So the train is leaving the station. Get aboard or don't. Your choice. There will be another one along later, so you can always jump aboard then.


I apologize for seeming so abrupt. I get tired of arguing about this stuff because I have a working model on my bench and the people who argue with me never do. They never bother to build and put their OWN meters on it before dismissing what I am trying to show them. Just so you know, a well built Tesla switch (at least the one in the Benitez patents) will demonstrate a COP>6 or GREATER, but eventually the batteries begin to lose a little. With the addition of a small solar panel to keep the batteries topped off on sunny days, they can be made to run a hell of a long time and provide usable power. The problem is, to get the power output up where you can run....say a house, the cost for batteries is way beyond what most researchers are going to spend. I just spent $1,500 for eight 250 amp hour deep cycle 6 volt batteries to use in my testing, and would need to spend probably 5 or 6 times that to produce the power to run a house, and then how long will those batteries last? Who is going to spend THAT kind of money? In my opinion, THIS setup is better.

[Hoppy]

The problem is, to get the power output up where you can run....say a house, the cost for batteries is way beyond what most researchers are going to spend. I just spent $1,500 for eight 250 amp hour deep cycle 6 volt batteries to use in my testing, and would need to spend probably 5 or 6 times that to produce the power to run a house, and then how long will those batteries last? Who is going to spend THAT kind of money? In my opinion, THIS setup is better.

Yes, batteries are expensive and need to be maintained in good condition and I'm not sure that your system will in the medium to long term allow the batteries to remain in good condition. Time will tell for those that embark on this project. Thanks again for giving us a detailed update of your progress.

[Dbowling]

I'm doing extended runs right now to try and determine the long term effects on the batteries. I only have four batteries, (I need my new 6 volt batteries to run my big generator for experiments on it, so they are not available for testing here) so using 230 CCA lawn and garden batteries that are old, old, old, so I do not have the opportunity to charge a set and switch in a new set while the charged set rests. . Therefore I am letting the batteries rest for one hour between runs as I switch them in position. After each 30 minute run, and after rest, I measure each battery with the Cen-Tech digital battery analyzer, recording the standing voltage, resistance, CCA value and battery capacity. Then I switch the two in series to parallel and the two in parallel to series and run it for another 30 minutes. I call this two stage process a "Cycle" since the two sets have each been in both positions (providing power to the circuit or being charged by the circuit) I am currently on the 5th cycle and hope to get one more completed before leaving town in the morning. I will be gone for a week. I will continue the process when I return and complete cycles until my Analyzer shows either that the batteries are no longer usable, or that they have reached their max capacity and max charge. Just so you know, the volt meter was showing these batteries to be down around 12.3-12.5 range when I began this and I did NOT charge the batteries up to max with the charger. I figured either this would support my belief or show I have lost it. I CONTINUE to power a second motor as a generator with a load on it that is a 12 volt fan pulling .45 amps.


Since the runs are each 30 minutes long and two runs make a cycle. Five cycles is five hours.
I have run a 12 volt fan pulling .45 amps for 5 hours. which requires 27 watts of output
I have run a razor scooter motor turning a generator at 12 volts pulling 4 amps for five hours, which requires 240 watts
So far I have pulled 267 watts of power from this system. By no means is that close to what is available in the batteries

[Hoppy]

Since the runs are each 30 minutes long and two runs make a cycle. Five cycles is five hours.
I have run a 12 volt fan pulling .45 amps for 5 hours. which requires 27 watts of output
I have run a razor scooter motor turning a generator at 12 volts pulling 4 amps for five hours, which requires 240 watts
So far I have pulled 267 watts of power from this system. By no means is that close to what is available in the batteries

David,

A power consumption test of this type requires careful current and voltage monitoring for accuracy. Are you actually drawing a constant 0.45 amps over the full 5 hours and how is the supplied voltage to the motor varying?

[Dbowling]

I have an amp gauge and a clamp on amp meter. I have used both. I have several volt meters. I do not sit there and watch the batteries for the entire 30 minutes of the run, but I do check them every few minutes. You are correct in that there are fluctuations in the amp draw reading. I am trying to be conservative in stating that it is drawing .45 amps. I believe it is probably drawing higher, but 4.5 is the LOW I have seen so far during my checks of the meter. The voltage seems consistent at 12+ volts. I realize there is a range there but as long as it doesn't go down to 11 or up to 13, I am calling it 12.


I have found that there is a BIG difference in voltage readings between what the battery analyzer shows and what my meters (3 of them) show when I check battery voltages at the end of a run.  All three meters, and they are different brands, all show higher voltage readings than the battery analyzer, so I'm going to go with its reading as I HOPE it is the most accurate.


I am putting together a spread sheet of the data from the battery analyzer and after I get back from Arizona (leaving in the morning for a week) I will continue with trying to kill these batteries by continuing to run the same load while switching the batteries back and forth. The batteries will have rested for a week, but there isn't much I can do about that.


I will be at a place that is off the grid, so no internet access. I can check in here, but won't have anything to post as far as data goes. Can answer any questions though.