How to Build a Toroidal Free Energy Generator

[ryder2344321]

I'm sharing on my blog (link below), a step by step process of how to build a working free energy device. With only a basic knowledge of electronics, the device can be built easily and quickly. I've called the device QEG2 because is loosely based on QEG.

https://qeg2.wordpress.com/

[TinselKoala]

I'm sharing on my blog (link below), a step by step process of how to build a working free energy device. With only a basic knowledge of electronics, the device can be built easily and quickly. I've called the device QEG2 because is loosely based on QEG.

https://qeg2.wordpress.com/

Well, I'm impressed. You seemed to have some knowledge of what you are doing... until I got to this part:

A fully tuned QEG2 will produce about 1 kilo watts per hour of additional power.

Kilo watts per hour. So it's clear from that phrase that you don't understand basic electrical quantities. Suppose I told you my car went 60 miles per hour per hour. What would you think then? The Watt, dear "ryder", is a unit of power, equivalent to one Joule of energy _per second_ passing your point of measurement. "Kilowatts per hour" only makes sense if you are talking about some rate of change of power, not power itself. Look it up! This is _basic_ knowledge of electronics... not even that, it's just electricity and proper measurement units.

So, ignoring for the moment your evident mistaken understanding of just what a Watt actually is, what proof can you present that your device is actually overunity? Can you show it running itself? Of course you cannot.  I note that the bulb isn't even lit up in the photo on your blog. (But how could it be, when it isn't even actually wired into the circuit, according to your photo? What magic is this?)

Do you have a proper wideband power analyzer that you can connect to your system to show actual high-quality measurements of input and output power? An oscilloscope that can do proper waveform math, used properly and presented in a clear unequivocal manner? Or will we be treated to DMM measurements, Kill-a-Watt meters and glowing lightbulbs, as is typical? I can hardly wait.


The "Fix the World" QEG is a scam and we all know it. It never functioned as the Robitailles claimed when they were sucking up money from their various fundraisers, it never ran itself and never will. Most of the people who got scammed have already given up even trying to get their six-thousand-dollar doorstops to work as any kind of efficient generators, much less "be started by a crank mechanism" or "running their homes".  By associating yourself with that scam in any way you are subtracting lots of points from your credibility before you even start.


Be that all as it may.... can you explain to us Free Energy novices just how your mains adapter power converter and your light bulb load are supposed to operate _at all_ , when they are connected to their terminal strip as shown in your photo?


Looking at your photo more closely, I can see that you are using the 555 timer in a very simple astable configuration to generate a clock signal (frequency varied by the potentiometer) for the 4017 decade counter. You are using 8 of the 10 outputs of the decade counter to drive the Bases of the 8 transistors in a high-side switching arrangement, which in turn are driving the 8 "rotor" coils in sequence. It is interesting that you appear to have the Pin 14 Clock input tied High and are using the Pin 13 Inhibit pin to make the chip advance on the negative transition of the timing impulse from Pin 3 of the 555. It's rather odd that you aren't using series base resistors, pulldowns or other typical components, and your 555 circuit itself is probably the simplest I've seen. For example there doesn't even seem to be anything connected to Pin 4, which is typically connected along with Pin 8 to the positive power supply. And there are no bypass or decoupling caps used, just the timing capacitor. I can't quite see all the details of the 555 circuit on your image, like the resistor color-code markings or the cap value, so I don't know your intended frequency range,  but it's easy enough to set up a proper astable 555 circuit that will do what yours is intended to do. This arrangement is clearly intended to drive your 8 "rotor" coils in a stepped sequential manner simulating rotation (even though you are leaving a gap in the sequence by omitting two of the 10 outputs of the decade counter.) And the pot on the 555 is intended to control the speed of the simulated rotation. 

It will be fun to wire up this circuit on my breadboards and see if I can get some LEDs flashing in sequence.

toroidal energy also known as zero-point energy (radiant energy)

Also known as ... BS. 
No, Zero-point energy is a real thing with an actual physical definition,  but you don't know what it actually is. I'll tell you now what it _isn't_ though. It's not "toroidal energy" or "radiant energy".

[AlienGrey]

Well, I'm impressed. You seemed to have some knowledge of what you are doing... until I got to this part:

Kilo watts per hour. So it's clear from that phrase that you don't understand basic electrical quantities. Suppose I told you my car went 60 miles per hour per hour. What would you think then? The Watt, dear "ryder", is a unit of power, equivalent to one Joule of energy _per second_ passing your point of measurement. "Kilowatts per hour" only makes sense if you are talking about some rate of change of power, not power itself. Look it up! This is _basic_ knowledge of electronics... not even that, it's just electricity and proper measurement units.

So, ignoring for the moment your evident mistaken understanding of just what a Watt actually is, what proof can you present that your device is actually overunity? Can you show it running itself? Of course you cannot.  I note that the bulb isn't even lit up in the photo on your blog. (But how could it be, when it isn't even actually wired into the circuit, according to your photo? What magic is this?)

Do you have a proper wideband power analyzer that you can connect to your system to show actual high-quality measurements of input and output power? An oscilloscope that can do proper waveform math, used properly and presented in a clear unequivocal manner? Or will we be treated to DMM measurements, Kill-a-Watt meters and glowing lightbulbs, as is typical? I can hardly wait.


The "Fix the World" QEG is a scam and we all know it. It never functioned as the Robitailles claimed when they were sucking up money from their various fundraisers, it never ran itself and never will. Most of the people who got scammed have already given up even trying to get their six-thousand-dollar doorstops to work as any kind of efficient generators, much less "be started by a crank mechanism" or "running their homes".  By associating yourself with that scam in any way you are subtracting lots of points from your credibility before you even start.


Be that all as it may.... can you explain to us Free Energy novices just how your mains adapter power converter and your light bulb load are supposed to operate _at all_ , when they are connected to their terminal strip as shown in your photo?


Looking at your photo more closely, I can see that you are using the 555 timer in a very simple astable configuration to generate a clock signal (frequency varied by the potentiometer) for the 4017 decade counter. You are using 8 of the 10 outputs of the decade counter to drive the Bases of the 8 transistors in a high-side switching arrangement, which in turn are driving the 8 "rotor" coils in sequence. It is interesting that you appear to have the Pin 14 Clock input tied High and are using the Pin 13 Inhibit pin to make the chip advance on the negative transition of the timing impulse from Pin 3 of the 555. It's rather odd that you aren't using series base resistors, pulldowns or other typical components, and your 555 circuit itself is probably the simplest I've seen. For example there doesn't even seem to be anything connected to Pin 4, which is typically connected along with Pin 8 to the positive power supply. And there are no bypass or decoupling caps used, just the timing capacitor. I can't quite see all the details of the 555 circuit on your image, like the resistor color-code markings or the cap value, so I don't know your intended frequency range,  but it's easy enough to set up a proper astable 555 circuit that will do what yours is intended to do. This arrangement is clearly intended to drive your 8 "rotor" coils in a stepped sequential manner simulating rotation (even though you are leaving a gap in the sequence by omitting two of the 10 outputs of the decade counter.) And the pot on the 555 is intended to control the speed of the simulated rotation. 

It will be fun to wire up this circuit on my breadboards and see if I can get some LEDs flashing in sequence.
Also known as ... BS. 
No, Zero-point energy is a real thing with an actual physical definition,  but you don't know what it actually is. I'll tell you now what it _isn't_ though. It's not "toroidal energy" or "radiant energy".

what it _isn't_ though. It's not "toroidal energy" or "radiant energy".
[/quote]

Well if you do i don't think it's going to work, like that!

Some time ago last year A Russian guy  sent me a link to another version of that type of unit, the disk former wasn't steel, it was thin laminations of iron made from a  stripping down some thing else (in Russian) it was much the same as this one with old relay coils round the inner nodules pointing into the centre, but in the centre was an alloy can made from a gutted capacitor filled with magnetic fluid, once it was started it showed a small light bulb lit up.

I don't have the link now, sorry win xp to win 7 saga again, but Nickz, i sent it to him, he might still have it, if your lucky but alas we see so many that come to nothing ;(.
But hen you have 93.5 atomic roster, now he keeps 'burbling' on about his device and the word monkey tree, this looks like a monkey tree (a bit) strange that.

I found the link after a search on my posts and google has terminated the account due to copyright! sorry

AG

[Paul-R]

All working so-called "free energy generators" should be accompanied by a table showing energy in and energy out. 
(and we'd rather not be dealing with areas under oscilloscope curves).

[TinselKoala]

FWIW.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nqcZy_Gx7jk

I now can see that the OP has indeed implemented the connection between Pin 15 (reset) and Pin 9  of the 4017(where the 9th LED/driver would be connected), so that it resets and only cycles smoothly through the 8 coil drivers without a gap for 9 and 10, rather than using all ten outputs as I have in my video. Sorry about my confusion on that issue. I would normally do something like this using an Arduino rather than TTL/CMOS, but that's no excuse my for missing a jumper wire on his circuit breadboard! If anyone knows anything else I've missed please let me know.


I'd still like to know the answer to this, too: