My Bedini with Hall Effect Sensor - Questions

[earthbound0729]

Hello Everyone,

earthbound here. It has been a couple of months since I've posted, but I have recently purchased some important components and have been doing other experimentation.
If you reference one of my last post regarding my Bedini setup you'll see I had some questions. Time for more now.
Currently I have built a Hall Effect Sensor with the 3144 with a resistor between the Vin and Vout. I am using this as my trigger for the Bedini coil. Because of this I am not using the trigger coil as designed in the coil.
I set my system up thusly: (please see the attached photo-the Hall effect sensor is in the circuit where the trigger coil is supposed to be connected. Also, I am using a 9 volt radio battery to power the sensor separate from the 12 volt 18 amp hour battery which is connected to the main coil. I did not feel comfortable wiring the sensor into the higher voltage battery even though it can withstand 24 volt)

Using this sensor setup, my rotor spins way faster than before. Also, since I am not using the 2 battery setup in this particular test I have placed the 100 volt neon bulb in between the Collector and the Emitter of the transistor and it flat spits out that 100 volt light. At full rpm, of course, it appears as a constant light without flickering.

Question 1: My heat synced transistor which is a c5027r is getting very warm in this setting after about 5 minutes time. I checked the data sheet and see that the base input should be no more than 7 volts, although the max voltage into the sensor Vin is actually closer to 8.3 volts. Would using a small resistor in between the 9 volt battery and the Vin of the Hall Effect Sensor be wise, or of no value?
Question 2: Related to #1, would merely adding the second battery into the circuit help to reduce that heat possibly?
Question 3: Could the Neon lamp being lit up constantly at full rpm be transferring or inducing heat into the transistor?


Any help would be appreciated. This actually was my most fun tonight since I built this machine. Very stimulating to see this, but I am also healthily cautious, especially in view of the extremely high output from the collapsing magnetic field lighting that neon so brightly.


Thanks to all who contribute here. We need you.
earthbound.

[tinman]

Hello Everyone,

earthbound here. It has been a couple of months since I've posted, but I have recently purchased some important components and have been doing other experimentation.
If you reference one of my last post regarding my Bedini setup you'll see I had some questions. Time for more now.
Currently I have built a Hall Effect Sensor with the 3144 with a resistor between the Vin and Vout. I am using this as my trigger for the Bedini coil. Because of this I am not using the trigger coil as designed in the coil.
I set my system up thusly: (please see the attached photo-the Hall effect sensor is in the circuit where the trigger coil is supposed to be connected. Also, I am using a 9 volt radio battery to power the sensor separate from the 12 volt 18 amp hour battery which is connected to the main coil. I did not feel comfortable wiring the sensor into the higher voltage battery even though it can withstand 24 volt)

Using this sensor setup, my rotor spins way faster than before. Also, since I am not using the 2 battery setup in this particular test I have placed the 100 volt neon bulb in between the Collector and the Emitter of the transistor and it flat spits out that 100 volt light. At full rpm, of course, it appears as a constant light without flickering.

Question 1: My heat synced transistor which is a c5027r is getting very warm in this setting after about 5 minutes time. I checked the data sheet and see that the base input should be no more than 7 volts, although the max voltage into the sensor Vin is actually closer to 8.3 volts. Would using a small resistor in between the 9 volt battery and the Vin of the Hall Effect Sensor be wise, or of no value?
Question 2: Related to #1, would merely adding the second battery into the circuit help to reduce that heat possibly?
Question 3: Could the Neon lamp being lit up constantly at full rpm be transferring or inducing heat into the transistor?


Any help would be appreciated. This actually was my most fun tonight since I built this machine. Very stimulating to see this, but I am also healthily cautious, especially in view of the extremely high output from the collapsing magnetic field lighting that neon so brightly.


Thanks to all who contribute here. We need you.
earthbound.

Sounds to me like the transistor is staying on to long,and getting hot.

First thing to do is move your hall switch away from the coil,as once the coil switches on,then the magnetic field produced by the coil could be keeping your hall switch closed--keeping the transistor switched on. Put your hall switch next to one of the other magnets in stead of the coil-see pic below. This will also allow you to adjust your timing and on time period for the transistor-also depicted below. Then limit your base voltage to 6 volt's as well.

By being able to adjust both the timing and pulse width of the transistor,you should see the neon light up brightly at one position. When you see the neon flashing all sorts of blue light,then you have the right position--well as far as the bedini camp are concerned anyway.

Pulse motors are a fun toy,and a great learning curve--but as of yet,have not shown anything in the way of free energy production.

Brad

[earthbound0729]

Sounds to me like the transistor is staying on to long,and getting hot.

This sounds very reasonable as I suspect my RPM is up around 2000-3000 at least (no way to prove as I don't have a tachometer), and with 4 magnets spinning by that fast I would have at least 8000-12000 on/off cycles during that 1 minute if my transistor can switch that fast.
I do have my Arduinos and could certainly workout something with them if needed.

First thing to do is move your hall switch away from the coil,as once the coil switches on,then the magnetic field produced by the coil could be keeping your hall switch closed--keeping the transistor switched on. Put your hall switch next to one of the other magnets in stead of the coil-see pic below. This will also allow you to adjust your timing and on time period for the transistor-also depicted below. Then limit your base voltage to 6 volt's as well.

I was actually in a position 90 degrees away from the coil core (which I did not mention), and approximately 3/8" away from the neo magnet. Maybe I should go the full 180 degrees.
Since my Hall effect sensor is either off or on, I don't understand the distance away my magnet concept, except for that purpose. I did experiments prior to actually spinning up the rotor to determine when the switching was occurring related to what distance away from the magnet face the sensor was.

By being able to adjust both the timing and pulse width of the transistor,you should see the neon light up brightly at one position. When you see the neon flashing all sorts of blue light,then you have the right position

Interesting you should mention the color of the neon. My neon was sometimes lit blue, but mostly it was orange to red colored, especially at the higher RPM. I will definitely mess with the positioning. Reminds me of using a timing light on a car to determine TDC of the piston and then to advance or retard the timing based on that finding.

Thank you Brad (Tinman) for your insights and suggestions and diagramatic additions. It really simplifies the concept. Also, too, I have seen many of your Youtube vids and circuits. Thanks for your contributions.
Back to the experimenter's corner.

Dave

[tinman]

Thank you Brad (Tinman) for your insights and suggestions and diagramatic additions. It really simplifies the concept. Also, too, I have seen many of your Youtube vids and circuits. Thanks for your contributions.
Back to the experimenter's corner.

Dave

This sounds very reasonable as I suspect my RPM is up around 2000-3000 at least (no way to prove as I don't have a tachometer), and with 4 magnets spinning by that fast I would have at least 8000-12000 on/off cycles during that 1 minute if my transistor can switch that fast.

That transistor would be able to switch a 1MHz--that is 1 000 000 times a second.
Your rotor will never get close to the transistors switching speed limit.

I was actually in a position 90 degrees away from the coil core (which I did not mention), and approximately 3/8" away from the neo magnet. Maybe I should go the full 180 degrees.
Since my Hall effect sensor is either off or on, I don't understand the distance away my magnet concept, except for that purpose. I did experiments prior to actually spinning up the rotor to determine when the switching was occurring related to what distance away from the magnet face the sensor was.

What hall effect transistor do you have?--sounds like you have the wrong one.
And how are the magnets orientated on your rotor?--EG N/S/N/S--N/N/N/N--S/S/S/S ?

Interesting you should mention the color of the neon. My neon was sometimes lit blue, but mostly it was orange to red colored, especially at the higher RPM. I will definitely mess with the positioning. Reminds me of using a timing light on a car to determine TDC of the piston and then to advance or retard the timing based on that finding.

When you see the blue light from a neon,it means you are close to a transistor meltdown-so to speak. The neon is on the verge of blowing when the blue color is seen,as that is showing you voltages above that of which the neon bulb is rated for. As soon as that neon bulb blow's,it's bye bye transistor. So get that second battery or a load of some sort on the flyback to pull the voltage down.

I have posted a link to the bullshit guide to pulse motors. It also includes solid state systems as well.
Take your time to read it,and this will give you some idea as to what not to believe.

Any questions you have--just ask,and i will do my best to help you out--mostly in the way of fact's,and not the fiction you are about to read in the link below.

http://www.free-energy-info.com/Chapt6.html


Brad.

[earthbound0729]

TY Brad for your response.

What hall effect transistor do you have?--sounds like you have the wrong one.
And how are the magnets orientated on your rotor?--EG N/S/N/S--N/N/N/N--S/S/S/S ?

For the  hall effect sensor I am using a 3144, which does not truly ever go off, but it drops the voltage to about 1.4 v when I am about 3/8" from the neo magnet, enough to effectively disengage the C5027, but otherwise always on.

My magnet orientation is N/N/N/N and I am able to use the back of this sensor. If my magnets were S/S/S/S I would have used the front side. Interesting design.

This design appears then to be a normally closed configuration whereas maybe a normally open one may be better in this case to help reduce the on time which may be increasing the heat in the C5027 transistor and thereby wasting electrical energy used rotationally for the coil. Would that be right? The Arduino could also reverse this digital data so that I effectively could create a normally open circuit as long as the Arduino is in control.

It seems like actually using the Arduino to only pulse a 5 volt signal to the Base of the NPN transistor at less than the current magnet speeds while maintaining the field collapses of the main coil and collecting that energy would increase the energy savings from the battery. I say this because once the rotor is up to max RPM, then only an occasional pulse from the Arduino to the C5027 transistor could keep the rotor spinning related to its inertial mass at some set RPM, which would be less than the max RPM, but more energy efficient in this respect. The Hall sensor could still be used as a positional indicator of any given magnet with feedback to the Arduino, and possibly using a simple divisional formula of the RPM and number of magnets on the rotor, one could experimentally determine that value. Of course, having an oscilloscope under these circumstances would be ideal. But using a TFT touchscreen with the Arduino could give the opportunity to tweek these settings once the machine is running at max RPM. The touchscreen could include the buttons linked to formula to reduce or increase speed based on Hall Effect feedback once these had been determined.

What do you think?

earthbound