Overunity.com Archives is Temporarily on Read Mode Only!



Free Energy will change the World - Free Energy will stop Climate Change - Free Energy will give us hope
and we will not surrender until free energy will be enabled all over the world, to power planes, cars, ships and trains.
Free energy will help the poor to become independent of needing expensive fuels.
So all in all Free energy will bring far more peace to the world than any other invention has already brought to the world.
Those beautiful words were written by Stefan Hartmann/Owner/Admin at overunity.com
Unfortunately now, Stefan Hartmann is very ill and He needs our help
Stefan wanted that I have all these massive data to get it back online
even being as ill as Stefan is, he transferred all databases and folders
that without his help, this Forum Archives would have never been published here
so, please, as the Webmaster and Creator of these Archives, I am asking that you help him
by making a donation on the Paypal Button above.
You can visit us or register at my main site at:
Overunity Machines Forum



LCAP (Again) Possible Free Energy. (Voltage Gain Over time)

Started by TheGeneralHackr, October 28, 2016, 11:57:07 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

TheGeneralHackr

Quote from: itsu on October 30, 2016, 06:20:43 AM
TGH,

after your last FWBR modification i got it to work (kind of).
I had to reverse the led and i had to also connect the emitter to minus (-)
My AC leads are reversed versus your diagram.
I am using 2x AA rechargeables, at 2.4V for the moment.

The collector signal is shown in the screenhot below.

Using a 470nF poly cap, so no tantalum.

Voltage slowly dropping on the batteries........


Regards Itsu

Yes, it should be grounded before the bridge and at the emitter of the transistor.
There should be 1-3Mohm resistance on the base, even if its not a led.
Your frequency is too high, I had around that same frequency in the scope shots but that was only when the circuit was running "wide open" The frequency should be around 5hz-10hz when the potentiometer is cranked up to 1 Mohm, you should hear a audible clicking sound. It should be around 5-10hz
If moving the pot up to 1 Mohm doesn't help try removing the 470nf and the potentiometer temporarily and replacing them with a single 470uf 16 volt electrolytic capacitor. (You should hear the clicking sound I'm talking about for around 10 seconds before it fades off)

Here are the images on how I connected the emitter to the ground and bridge rectifier.

itsu



TGH,

your images are way to big, please shrink them down first using paint or so,  thanks.


oK, new screenshot shows a 12Hz signal which can be lowered (or raised) somewhat using the 1M potmeter.

The white led is visible blinking now (12Hz)

Batteries voltage is stable at 2.513V, slightly climbing, probably due to earlier heavier load.

The LED needs to be opposite as to what your diagram shows, else it won't work.

I will continue to monitor the batteries voltage......

Regards Itsu

itsu


Batteries voltage at 2.525V and still climbing slowly.........

Itsu

TheGeneralHackr

Quote from: itsu on October 30, 2016, 03:33:33 PM
Batteries voltage at 2.525V and still climbing slowly.........

Itsu
Excellent I'm glad you got it to work. 12hz sounds about spot on.
If you raise the input voltage the voltage will climb faster in the long run

itsu


I left the circuit running overnight with a voltage of 2.528V, and this morning it was at 2.534V and seems to be stable now.

I will keep it undisturbed for the rest of the day.

I have a supercapacitorbank (100F at 15V) which i will "fill" to 5V and let it run from that for a while as a next step.


Regards Itsu