3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS

[magnetman12003]

Hi all, so what i'm saying in my previous post is, based upon magnetmans circuit, 5 volts input is direct driving his led bulbs, through his full wave bridge in his circuit and also because of the boost circuitry inside the bulb.
Though i would assume his capacitor dumping circuit may also be contributing power to the bulbs, which may explain why the light output is so smooth and not blinking, because the capacitor dump pulses are riding on top of the output from the directly driven input
I tried two nimh cells in series for around 2.56 volts and that voltage does not light up the led bulbs, directly driven, though 3 of those cells in series does.
I also tried driving the led board direct, which means bypassing the led bulbs driver circuitry and with a 12 volt battery and it does not light up, it seems it is a board rated for 120 volts.
Hi broli, not sure who you are speaking to.
peace love light

Just moments ago I tried the same experiment again.  I focused on the voltage/current across the C1 capacitor with the setup powered only by my USB 5 volt 17 watt wall adapter.   I got 2.60 volts/1.15 amps totaling 2.99 watts??  This time I did this many times.  Even checking with my other multi meter.  Once again all 9 seven watt led bulbs lit up brightly???  The USB ran cold to the touch.

[SkyWatcher123]

Hi magnetman, thanks for sharing your information.
At the moment, i only have 6 receptacles for led bulbs, when i get more i will do the direct test from usb supply.
I was looking at your circuit drawing again and since we have determined the led bulbs are being lighted directly by the 5 volt input.
I noticed not only are the led bulbs powered direct through the full wave bridge, the primary coil is also directly powered through the led bulbs, which is probably another reason why the circuit is now oscillating very well without the magnet.
peace love light

[SkyWatcher123]

Hi all, i had a large air core bifilar coil from previous project, each 24 awg. strand measures about 11 ohms.
Then wired the oscillator as magnetman shows, though without the relay inductor going to base.
Circuit oscillates fine and everything else is per his drawing, though i am using my hand and a small wire to replace the SCR.
The bulbs light good and the capacitor shows 4.3 volts standing, when i manually short the capacitor into the negative rail into the negative of the led bulbs, the capacitor drops to 3.6 volts and stays there, no matter how much i manually pulse it.
I am seeing no increase in brightness of the led bulbs by dumping what little is in the capacitor.
My conclusion at the moment, is that the led bulbs are mainly being driven directly by the 5 volt usb supply, unless magnetmans 12 volt led bulbs are different than mine.
I did order the bulbs from the ebay seller that magnetman listed on his first video post.
Then again, maybe my oscillator at this time, may not be outputting enough to fill the capacitor to a good voltage level to create an increase in led bulb light output.
peace love light

[gyulasun]

During the 3 years building up to what is now presently working I destroyed many transistors, burned up many neons and smoked a new watt meter.  So I don't want to put in jeopardy the working setup by doing more experiments and ruin it. Its been working real well for me now running cold with no heating problems or glowing neons.  I trust those building what I have illustrated will run further tests and see if they can take it further than I.

Hi magnetman,

I understand and respect your stance on your setup,  thanks.

From some of your previous videos I gather you have this type of DMM:
Extech 22-816 true RMS digital multimeter.  I assume this is what you use to
measure DC current and DC voltage in your setup. Is this correct?
This is its User manual: http://assets.tequipment.net/assets/1/26/Documents/22-816_UM.pdf

If yes, then I think you could do some further measurements on your setup
without making any further experimentation or any change on it.

You DMM can measure frequency from 10 Hz to 10 MHz when you turn rotary range switch
to FREQ setting and then press the button with the symbol Hz / % on it on the upper left side.
At least this is what is written in the user manual. And the black test lead banana plug goes
into negative COM jack and the red test lead banana plug goes into the positive V jack, just
like in case of say voltage measurements.

1) Now please would you check what frequency may be across capacitor C1?
2) Would you please check what frequency may be across the OUT+ and IN AND OUT-?

The latter is your output going to the LEDs. If we learn about these frequencies, then
this may help figure out that at what frequency the thyristor works as a switch. 
(Notice: I know there is DC voltage across either C1 or across the output but due to the SCR switching
there can be AC pulses across them and that would be good to know, see the next step below.)

3) One more measurement if you do not mind: set the DMM to AC voltage range and check the
AC voltage across C1 and then across the OUT+ and IN AND OUT- points. So far you mentioned
all your voltages measured were DC voltages.

By the way, if you are in AC voltage range and press the Hz / % button, then the display is
said to change to Hertz and would show the frequency of the AC voltage. This is valid also
when you measure AC current and want to know the frequency of the AC current.

Thanks,
Gyula

[gyulasun]

....
Edit: just noticed your post magnetman, the voltage i gave for the 4 bulbs directly off usb, was directly
at output of usb, not at the capacitor.
I just connected the capacitor output from my circuit, directly to the led board and the capacitor
is showing 21 volts using the 5 volt usb input, at good brightness.
This tells me, the led board is not rated for 120 volts.
The board has 14 leds and if it is like other boards i see online, it may have 2 rows of 7 leds in series
and these are both in parallel.
And if each led uses 3 volts or so to turn on, then 21 volts makes sense.
It is drawing .52 amps at 4.9 volts or 2.55 watts from usb supply.

Hi Skywatcher,

Very good you managed to peep into that LED bulb. On the PCB we can see this:
5630-2B7C-14D  I did some search on this and found out a few things.
The 5630 means white LED type, the 2B7C means the PCB type the LEDs are mounted on
(7 may mean the 7 Watt board version) and 14D means 14 LEDs. Here is such PCB board:
https://www.sunsky-online.com/view/293913/7W+5630+SMD+White+14+LED+Aluminum+Base+Light+Panel++Diameter++50mm.htm

The LED type 5630 has 150 mA forward current and forward voltage is between 2.9 - 3.4 V.
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/High-Lumens-5630-smd-led-datasheet_60128464560.html
Because two strings of 7 series LEDs are in parallel, the driving current must be 300 mA and
the driving voltage level should be indeed 7 times the forward voltage i.e. between 20.3 - 23.8 V.

This surely involves a DC-DC converter from say roughly 12V to 22V. The COB designation on this bulb
in the ebay title means Chip On Board.

Regarding LED driver board you have, it looks like it has 4 input diodes, these are SS24 Schottky types
with 40V reverse voltage, 2 Amper average current ratings. Then this means that the input voltage to
these bulbs can be either DC or AC, and in AC voltage you cannot go much higher than say 28V AC
which has around 40 V peak value.

Here is a driver board that also has 4 Schottky diodes at its input (they are SS26, 60 V and 2 Amper):
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-to-DC-LED-Driver-input-DC-12-24V-output-15-42V-300mA-for-5W-6W/32302850009.html

and it has 300 mA constant current drive feature. Probably your board also has this. It means that
the DC-DC converter always insures 300 mA forward current to the paralleled two 150 mA LED strings
and the forward voltage will settle for the 7 series LEDs automatically, no matter what their actual individual
forward voltage drops sum up to (within say the range between 18V to 22V in your case and you indeed
measured 21V across your puffer cap).

So your deductions quoted above sound correct.

Gyula