3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS

[magnetman12003]

Hi magnetman,

Thanks for all the measurements.
I requote your earlier measurement results too:
"AC measurement  59.95 HZ  across C1-- .005 volts AC     
AC measurement 59.97 HZ across IN/OUT  -- .005 volts AC" 

I think these measurement results strongly indicate the thyristor is not operating in the setup.
Very probably the low DC level you measured across C1 (around 3.3V) cannot trigger the neon
bulb any more hence the thyristor cannot fire either.  This is my deduction, based on your meter results.

The question arises whether why there is so low DC voltage, 3.3V across capacitor C1?
(You reported 3.3 V in recent reply #105 or even in reply #123 above.)  Is it possible the oscillator cannot charge it up higher?

You may wish to check the AC voltage and the frequency across the collector of
transistor TIP35C and the Common negative rail with your true RMS meter, that would be informative.

(The collector pin of the TIP35C is the middle one out of its three legs and as you surely
know the collector pin is also tied to the heat sink part of the transistor case.)

If you find no AC voltage (or any frequency other than 59.9-60Hz), then check the same
at the transistor base with respect also to the Common negative rail.

Thanks,  Gyula

PS If you find no AC voltage and frequency at the pins of the TIP35C, it may mean that it cannot
oscillate from the 5 V DC input the USB wall adapter provides. 
This may happen, I found for such oscillators the start up may be critical or none at a lower input voltage
than earlier it was from the 12V input.
Maybe this can be solved by readjusting the potmeters for the 5V input while monitoring say the DC level
across C1, it should jump up up from its 3.3 V DC level when the oscillator just begins to oscillate.
Then you can check again the AC voltages and the frequency at the points I mentioned yesterday and today.
Hopefully you can easily access the pins of the TIP35C with your meter probe tip, be careful.

I still am able to spin a very small small diametric ring magnet over the coil with all 9 bulbs lit bright.  That proves the circuit is oscillating.   Notice I said very small magnet.  With NO bulbs in the circuit I can spin a huge 2 inch diametric ring magnet easily.

[gyulasun]

I still am able to spin a very small small diametric ring magnet over the coil with all 9 bulbs lit bright.  That proves the circuit is oscillating.   Notice I said very small magnet.  With NO bulbs in the circuit I can spin a huge 2 inch diametric ring magnet easily.

Okay, that is fine, the oscillator oscillates.  However, its 'strength' may not be enough to pump up the voltage level across C1 once the DC voltage in it is 3.3 V only.  I would suggest to notice the present settings of the potmeters and then try adjusting it while monitoring the DC level across C1. 

It is very unlikely that the neon bulb is able to trigger the SCR from 3.3 V only.  Can you agree with this?

I would suggest to check the DC and AC voltage level between the negative leg of C1 and the Common negative rail.

As an alternative test, if I may, maybe you can run your setup from the variable power supply you have and adjusting its output voltage from 5 V first to replace the 5V USB adapter and then slowly increasing the supply voltage up towards the 10 -12 V while monitoring the 3.3 V across C1.  I suggest to unplug and then replug one of the output cable of the power supply to give a 'nudge' to the oscillator whenever an increased output voltage is set.

Gyula

[magnetman12003]

Okay, that is fine, the oscillator oscillates.  However, its 'strength' may not be enough to pump up the voltage level across C1 once the DC voltage in it is 3.3 V only.  I would suggest to notice the present settings of the potmeters and then try adjusting it while monitoring the DC level across C1. 

It is very unlikely that the neon bulb is able to trigger the SCR from 3.3 V only.  Can you agree with this?

I would suggest to check the DC and AC voltage level between the negative leg of C1 and the Common negative rail.

As an alternative test, if I may, maybe you can run your setup from the variable power supply you have and adjusting its output voltage from 5 V first to replace the 5V USB adapter and then slowly increasing the supply voltage up towards the 10 -12 V while monitoring the 3.3 V across C1.  I suggest to unplug and then replug one of the output cable of the power supply to give a 'nudge' to the oscillator whenever an increased output voltage is set.

Gyula

""""
When I got the setup working the very first time ""without problems"" I noticed the potentiometers were set as per what is shown on my diagram.  The R2 pot is adjusted  full counterclockwise and the R3 pot is full clockwise. With any other settings  problems came up.  The bottom line is if someone can connect 9 --  7 watt led bulbs in parallel and power them STRAIGHT from a 5 volt USB device I can compare my results with theirs and my test includes the power going through my setup from my 5 volt USB adapter.  This will show what the setup is capable of doing.

[gyulasun]

""""
When I got the setup working the very first time ""without problems"" I noticed the potentiometers were set as per what is shown on my diagram.  The R2 pot is adjusted  full counterclockwise and the R3 pot is full clockwise. With any other settings  problems came up.  The bottom line is if someone can connect 9 --  7 watt led bulbs in parallel and power them STRAIGHT from a 5 volt USB device I can compare my results with theirs and my test includes the power going through my setup from my 5 volt USB adapter.  This will show what the setup is capable of doing.

Well, I understand this comparison but it will be subjective when judging and comparing the brightness.

The measured power fed into the LEDs in one setup could be more readily compared to that of another setup, together with a measured input power to the setup, this would be more scientific and much less subjective. 
The small uncertainty remaining in this latter comparison is that we need to assume that the group of LEDs driven by one setup gives very close brightness to that of the other group of LEDs driven by the other setup.  I mean if you run two groups of LEDs from the same power source there can still be small differences in brightness, even if all the LEDs in the two groups have the same make and type.  I do not mean nitpicking here, just express my opinion on power level comparisons rather than brightness comparisons by eye ball judgements.

Thanks,
Gyula

[magnetman12003]

This is to whomever is constructing this circuit.  You are going to have to buy at least 10 LED -seven watt 12 volt bulbs for starters and one each LUMSING  5 volt USB power wall adapter.  They are illustrated below.  After buying both connect 9 of your led bulbs in parallel and then power the bulbs from your USB adapter DIRECTLY.  Take note of the output voltage and current between the USB and the bulbs.  Also the frequency if you are equipped to do that. Check bulb brightness visually!!!

This is where I come in with my setup:  I will do the same thing but in my case I will put my powered setup between the USB adapter and the bulbs. I will measure once more the voltage/current coming off the USB and then the same across the C1 capacitor in my setup.  I show a frequency of 60 HZ  (All 9 of my bulbs burn very bright.)

We will compare both readings and this should give us a very good idea as to just what the circuit is capable of doing or not doing.   Then you can make up your mind if you wish to proceed or invest further.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-4-10X-E27-E26-High-Power-LED-Lamp-Bulb-7W-White-Light-Energy-Saving-12V-Lights-/272226354567

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0132X03ZS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rO11A4jPkG4