3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS

[URFA]

I do appreciate your selflessness very much! But I don't understand the remark "DIAMETRIC RING MAGNET" in your diagram. Where this magnet should be located?

I think this is the answer:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krQrhVmt0UQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ri32jT5UQ5c

https://www.youtube.com/user/64298/videos?view=0&sort=dd&shelf_id=0

[magnetman12003]

I think this is the answer:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krQrhVmt0UQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ri32jT5UQ5c

https://www.youtube.com/user/64298/videos?view=0&sort=dd&shelf_id=0

A diametric magnet can be a ring magnet and polarities are found on the rounded sides rather than the flat ends.  I use ring magnets as its easy to spin them from the center point hole.    K&J Magnetics and Magnets 4 less has them in different sizes and grades.

[magnetman12003]

Did you try self-looped circuit already? It shouldn't be difficult with respect to performance given: instead of powering LED bulbs just try to power that USB wall adapter... ;-) BTW The neon bulb is sensitive to light - its ignition voltage strongly depends on illumination (photoeffect).

Such a result looks more realistic for me. The alleged surplus of 0.3234 watts will be probably measurement error of your wattmeter. These devices are calibrated for flat voltage source or harmonic sinus wave output - which your oscillator producing peaks trimmed with neon lamps definitely doesn't generate. Not to say, your wattmeter is designed for grid input - its precision will go down at low voltages.

I do appreciate your selflessness very much! But I don't understand the remark "DIAMETRIC RING MAGNET" in your diagram. Where this magnet should be located?
The main coil mentioned at your description is air core one. And I don't understand the meaning "INNER COIL / OUTER COIL" at your diagram.
I redrew your scheme for reference - please see bellow. Thank you for your explanation in advance!

The DIAMETRIC RING MAGNET has polarities on its sides not the flat ends.  It should be placed directly over the air core coil and spun with a finger to start it spinning continuously with the circuit powered.
When you wind a air coil with two separate strands of wire you start your wind from the core (INNER) and wind you way outwards to the (OUTER) outside. Hope that clears things up.

[Naija]

Hi all, this is not exactly like magnetmans setup, though has practical use value.
It is essentially a joule thief oscillator type, using a ferrite TV flyback c-core.
It is using 4 watts of input power from a 12 volt tractor battery.
Here is short video showing lighting level. 5 led bulbs are lighted, 2 are together towards the back.
https://youtu.be/C3vl1w62aaU
peace love light

Hello Skywatcher123,

I actually love the simplicity of your setup as well as your video. Thanks very much. I would like to replicate your design but first could you please guide me through the following first steps:

Is there an alternative for the ferrite flyback core? Am thinking of using bi-filiar air coil with a minimum of 100mm internal diameter. What specifications of the magnet wire would you recommend? Length, resistance, size of wire e.t.c. which would work efficiently in place of the ferrite flyback core?
Secondly, Would your setup as it is support 220V LED lamps or are their any modifications that must be made on the components?

Thanks in earnest anticipation for your reply

Naija

[Zephir]

Hello, magnetman

and thank You for your reply, albeit it sounds quite intriguing for me.. Your power enhancer behaves a bit like the Bedini motor or something similar. According to this video the brightness of LED bulbs and voltage at input doesn't change, once you stop the magnet, but the current consumption of your device increases from 0.94 to 1.28 A or so. Which meaning the magnet rotation actually has under such a situation?

Thank You for Your support!