3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS

[Zephir]

Presently using a 5 volt USB wall adapter I show 5.7845 watts powering  8 seven watt 12 volt bulbs. That's 56 watts and all 8 bulbs burn brightly... I spent 3 years experimenting with this circuit ...  I have at the least 200 pounds of experimental parts that I have to sell now. Some are brand new that were never used.

Did you try self-looped circuit already? It shouldn't be difficult with respect to performance given: instead of powering LED bulbs just try to power that USB wall adapter... ;-) BTW The neon bulb is sensitive to light - its ignition voltage strongly depends on illumination (photoeffect).

USB input to setup  5.03 volts at 1.15 amps. (5.7845 watts)  Output from setup capacitor to bulbs  5.93 volts at 1.03 amps  (6.1079 watts)  I checked this many times and came up to the same results. A plus .3234 watts unknown ?? power.

Such a result looks more realistic for me. The alleged surplus of 0.3234 watts will be probably measurement error of your wattmeter. These devices are calibrated for flat voltage source or harmonic sinus wave output - which your oscillator producing peaks trimmed with neon lamps definitely doesn't generate. Not to say, your wattmeter is designed for grid input - its precision will go down at low voltages.

Has anyone made my circuit EXACTLY as I have posted  here? All was posted as OPEN SOURCE information.

I do appreciate your selflessness very much! But I don't understand the remark "DIAMETRIC RING MAGNET" in your diagram. Where this magnet should be located?
The main coil mentioned at your description is air core one. And I don't understand the meaning "INNER COIL / OUTER COIL" at your diagram.
I redrew your scheme for reference - please see bellow. Thank you for your explanation in advance!

[magnetman12003]

Hi magnetman, thanks for the information.
I ordered these warm white ones just now, i like the warmer color.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-Super-Bright-High-Power-7W-12V-E27-Home-LED-Bulb-RV-Lights-Warm-White-E26-M-/322216141628?hash=item4b0594233c:g:jIoAAOSwimdXoxPM&vxp=mtr
One thing i have to be sure not to do when i get these, is not have the capacitor charged when i connect the bulbs, that is without some type of scr switch in place, because last night i popped the last low voltage bulb i had been using for a night light. 
I wonder what the actual lumens rating is on these bulbs at 12 volts direct, because the data on the website seems like it was taken from different sources and contradictory.
peace love light

Hi Sky Watcher,
I would measure the voltage directly on the insides of the powered empty bulb sockets before installing the bulbs to be sure there won't be a burnout after the bulbs are installed.   If you can fill a room with light continuously using 5 + watts (8 lit 7 watt bulbs) that's good enough for me.  Otherwise you would have to invest in a lux meter and test the brightness which by the way will decay if you use a battery as a power source.   The voltage must be constant that's why I am using the LARGER 5 volt USB wall adapter as power.
Small units have thermal shutdown problems and cutoff quickly.

[SkyWatcher123]

Hi all, Hi magnetman, ok thanks for the tip.
Yes, checking voltage at bulb bases would be the best way to prevent them going poof.
Have you blown any bulbs yet by making this same mistake i did, 3 times already.
I was researching the bulbs you are using and ones i will be getting and apparently, one guy that sells them, says the 7 watt version is around 600 lumens when using direct 12 volt battery power.
And he does mention the normal dc power will degrade them faster.
The circuits we are using, they should last longer because the lack of heat.
What kind of heat are you feeling on yours, have you run them long enough to see if they get warm.
peace love light

[gyulasun]

...
Yes, checking voltage at bulb bases would be the best way to prevent them going poof.
Have you blown any bulbs yet by making this same mistake i did, 3 times already.
...

Hi,

Yes, checking the voltage level at bulb bases is very good to 'prevent them going puf' but
only in case you feed the LEDs directly from your puffer capacitor. If you have a working
switching device like a thyristor magnetman uses to feed the bulbs from the puffer capacitor,
then your meter may get fooled.  This is because the thyristor choppes up the DC voltage coming
from the puffer capacitor (C1 in his schematic) and very likely a sawtooth-like wave shape could be
measured across the bulbs by a scope in this case.  Magnetman reported he measured
3.54 V DC across the 12 V lamps with a DMM, see this:

   I took out one of my eight bulbs and measured 3.54 volts inside the lamp socket?    All lamps
were lit during this test.  My room looks like  bright  daylight at 12 o'clock midnight with all lamps lit.

Maybe it is a bad idea to connect a second capacitor, C2 across the LEDs to smooth out the sawtooth
waves from his present operation point of view and the brightness or input power draw changes
too much, I do not know.  This should be tested and decide accordingly. I suggested the use of
capacitor C2 to filter the chopped-up waveform and make it DMM 'friendly',
see my post here: http://overunity.com/17200/3-7-volt-battery-powers-56-watts/msg504190/#msg504190

Gyula

[magnetman12003]

Hi all, Hi magnetman, ok thanks for the tip.
Yes, checking voltage at bulb bases would be the best way to prevent them going poof.
Have you blown any bulbs yet by making this same mistake i did, 3 times already.
I was researching the bulbs you are using and ones i will be getting and apparently, one guy that sells them, says the 7 watt version is around 600 lumens when using direct 12 volt battery power.
And he does mention the normal dc power will degrade them faster.
The circuits we are using, they should last longer because the lack of heat.
What kind of heat are you feeling on yours, have you run them long enough to see if they get warm.
peace love light

After putting one bulb in a refrigerator for a while I  test ran the bulb for 10 mjnutes using the large USB  power source.  The bulb was cold to the touch. I never blew a 120 volt led but did get one of my CORN BULBS to light up on its own.  Nothing else however would work.  That's when I switched to 12 then 5 volts and things got  much better.   http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/STMicroelectronics/BTW69-1200N/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujfF8w4qfSV3KjM7tz3jvhm3XoAXzHXxd9%2fzgbqzI5K1A%3d%3d