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Overunity Machines Forum



3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS

Started by magnetman12003, March 28, 2017, 07:46:43 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 8 Guests are viewing this topic.

magnetman12003

Quote from: TinselKoala on April 11, 2017, 12:00:15 AM
I'm guessing here... but maybe the "cutoff" after five minutes is due to the USB charger's chip entering thermal shutdown mode, rather than anything happening to the battery.

You could test this by feeling the chip with your finger to see if it's excessively hot and if the charger starts up again after it cools. A q-tip with a little isopropyl alcohol (evaporates quickly from hot chips) can also be used.
I was wandering if there is a larger  circuit that uses a AA (1.5 volts) battery to deliver 5 volts USB power.  This circuit would have to have  components that would not be subject to thermal shutdown  such as the miniature USB circuits that are common.  I would love to see how long a common AA alkaline battery would last in this circuit rather than the 18650 battery  A"" heavy duty"" circuit for the 18650 3.7 volt battery would be nice also.

URFA

Hi Magnetman.
Your setup very nice.
I made a similar setup to yours. I used a tesla coil as a radiant energy source. And I charge the capacitor through rectifier from tesla coil. Condenser filling with radiant energy  and discharge in my setup like yours. In my setup negative input and negative output similar to your setup but a little different,not connected directly. We must rest-created radiant energy to get it, then merge into the condenser and add the current. Radiant charges condenser instanly without wasting time you know. I did not use a thyristor in my setup. But I will use thyristors as soon as possible. I'm sure the result will be yours.

Here is my setup link.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVTS6zmv7LE&t=18s

Input: 12V 0.1A
Output load 220V 18Watt Hologen bulb.( I burn about 12 bulbs in my experiment.Because I have enormous power for 18w bulb)


Best regards.

magnetman12003

Quote from: TinselKoala on April 11, 2017, 12:00:15 AM
I'm guessing here... but maybe the "cutoff" after five minutes is due to the USB charger's chip entering thermal shutdown mode, rather than anything happening to the battery.

You could test this by feeling the chip with your finger to see if it's excessively hot and if the charger starts up again after it cools. A q-tip with a little isopropyl alcohol (evaporates quickly from hot chips) can also be used.
I think you are correct about thermal shutdown as the test leads alligator clips get warm after 5 minutes.  I can imagine the miniature circuitry inside the USB charger getting hot delivering the current to the 8 bulbs then shutting down without burning up.   I am going to try a 5 volt power supply next to see what happens.

magnetman12003

Quote from: magnetman12003 on April 11, 2017, 11:36:01 PM
  I think you are correct about thermal shutdown as the test leads alligator clips get warm after 5 minutes.  I can imagine the miniature circuitry inside the USB charger getting hot delivering the current to the 8 bulbs then shutting down without burning up.   I am going to try a 5 volt power supply next to see what happens.
I just tried a plug in USB 5 volt device that is much larger than the miniature devices.  The setup powers 8 twelve volt 7 watt led  bulbs with no problem continuously!!  Latest video on the You tube.

https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=FbwxaSxw3jo

gyulasun

Hi URFA,

Thanks for showing your interesting setup. You use the word 'radiant energy', I respect that, though I prefer saying you use (volt-ampere) reactive power from a resonant (Tesla) LC circuit.   8)

Would you mind using your analog ampermeter set to 250mA DC range (instead of the 10A)? Just to see the 100 mA much better...  lol     
I know you did not claim anything and it is possible that your meter may be wrong in its 250mA DC range.

It would be good to estimate the output power your incandescent bulb receives periodically from the puffer capacitor(s) via the switching relay.  Have you done any attempt to measure the DC voltages across the capacitor(s) just before the discharge moment and just after it? This way the energy (hence power) used from the puffer caps could be estimated. 
I am just curious...  :)   I assume you may perhaps use a two stage switching at the output as per Doug Konzen? to separate the load from the source?

Thanks
Gyula

Quote from: URFA on April 11, 2017, 03:49:18 PM
Hi Magnetman.
Your setup very nice.
I made a similar setup to yours. I used a tesla coil as a radiant energy source. And I charge the capacitor through rectifier from tesla coil. Condenser filling with radiant energy  and discharge in my setup like yours. In my setup negative input and negative output similar to your setup but a little different,not connected directly. We must rest-created radiant energy to get it, then merge into the condenser and add the current. Radiant charges condenser instanly without wasting time you know. I did not use a thyristor in my setup. But I will use thyristors as soon as possible. I'm sure the result will be yours.

Here is my setup link.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVTS6zmv7LE&t=18s

Input: 12V 0.1A
Output load 220V 18Watt Hologen bulb.( I burn about 12 bulbs in my experiment.Because I have enormous power for 18w bulb)


Best regards.