3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS

[gyulasun]

    I just tried a plug in USB 5 volt device that is much larger than the miniature devices.  The setup powers 8 twelve volt 7 watt led  bulbs with no problem continuously!!  Latest video on the You tube.

https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=FbwxaSxw3jo

Hi magnetman,

If we consider that 56W is indeed taken out from your circuit setup by the 8 LED bulbs, then let us just assume the DC power taken from
the USB 5V device by your setup is also 56W for the shake of simplicity and assuming COP=1 only. At 5V DC output voltage from the USB device
the current involved ought to be around I=56W/5V=11 Amper.
If the LED bulbs do not consume 56W but say only 40W, the current taken from the USB device would still be 8 Amper still assuming the COP=1  'simple' case.

I suggest measuring this current where the USB device's 5V output feeds your setup. I took a snapshot from your video to show where you could insert an Ampermeter set to at least to 10A or even 20A DC current range (most DMMs are able to measure at least 10A). I indicated the where you can check the DC 5V too when the setup is running, and no need to use 2 meters if you do not have 2 at hand. You could use 1 DMM because the 5V DC voltage is unlikely to change when you measure the current. And the current will not change when you measure the 5V DC of course.

By knowing the current and voltage values we can estimate much better the power relations of your setup.
By the way, do you happen to have technical specification for the 5V USB plug-in device? maybe type?

Thanks,
Gyula

PS your video link above does not work, here is the correct one:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FbwxaSxw3jo   

[SkyWatcher123]

Hi all, this is not exactly like magnetmans setup, though has practical use value.
It is essentially a joule thief oscillator type, using a ferrite TV flyback c-core.
It is using 4 watts of input power from a 12 volt tractor battery.
Here is short video showing lighting level. 5 led bulbs are lighted, 2 are together towards the back.
https://youtu.be/C3vl1w62aaU
peace love light

[magnetman12003]

Hi magnetman,

If we consider that 56W is indeed taken out from your circuit setup by the 8 LED bulbs, then let us just assume the DC power taken from
the USB 5V device by your setup is also 56W for the shake of simplicity and assuming COP=1 only. At 5V DC output voltage from the USB device
the current involved ought to be around I=56W/5V=11 Amper.
If the LED bulbs do not consume 56W but say only 40W, the current taken from the USB device would still be 8 Amper still assuming the COP=1  'simple' case.


I suggest measuring this current where the USB device's 5V output feeds your setup. I took a snapshot from your video to show where you could insert an Ampermeter set to at least to 10A or even 20A DC current range (most DMMs are able to measure at least 10A). I indicated the where you can check the DC 5V too when the setup is running, and no need to use 2 meters if you do not have 2 at hand. You could use 1 DMM because the 5V DC voltage is unlikely to change when you measure the current. And the current will not change when you measure the 5V DC of course.

By knowing the current and voltage values we can estimate much better the power relations of your setup.
By the way, do you happen to have technical specification for the 5V USB plug-in device? maybe type?

Thanks,
Gyula

PS your video link above does not work, here is the correct one:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FbwxaSxw3jo

Connected exactly as your photo I read 4.92 volts and .92 amps. All 8 lamps bright.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Plug-5V-2A-USB-Port-Wall-Charger-5-Volt-2-Amp-AC-DC-Power-Adapter-Converter-/131964370462?var=&hash=item1eb9b07e1e:m:mljbrhoJcJmqGRdemPLZoNw

[gyulasun]

     
Connected exactly as your photo I read 4.92 volts and .92 amps. All 8 lamps bright.
...

Hi magnetman,

Thank you very much for the cooperation!  So the input power to your setup is around 4.5W from the 5V USB plug in device. Very good!

Now we face the puzzle of what electric power the 8 LED lamps may actually consume...    Sure they are all bright.

I took a snapshot from one of your videos where the input and output wires can be best seen at the terminal strip.

I encircled in yellow the + (red) and - (black) wires I assume come from your capacitor C1 of your setup and I think the black wire is connected
to the Cathode of your thyristor and the red wire is connected to one of the common point of the 8 LEDs.
(Of course, the Anode of the thyristor is connected to the outcoming black wire by another piece of black wire as I guess it.)

Now if you would be so kind to check the DC voltage across the black and red wires ending in the terminal strip where I indicated a voltmeter
symbol, then we would have an idea how many volts can be in capacitor C1.  It is possible you would find fluctuating
(jumping up and down) voltage values as the thyristor discharges C1 (of course an oscilloscope would be the best here
but you may not have one).  Nevertheless, try to check the voltage there by a DMM both in the DC and AC voltage ranges. 

(Normally a sawtooth like waveform riding on a DC level rules across a puffer capacitor when it is loaded,
the frequency of the sawtooth is dictated by the thyristor: how frequently it is able to discharge the capacitor.)

The output current the LED lamps may consume could be checked in any of their common wires, in your schematic I indicate a current meter
in the negative common wire that goes to the 8 LEDs. But it could be measured also in their common positive wire.
I cannot make it out from the snapshot so I encircled two wires that may go to the LED bulbs, if these indeed go to them, then current could be
checked in any one of them.

Sorry for my 'curiosity' and for any inconvenience I may cause with such questions.  It is possible that using a DMM the true output voltage
and current fed to the LED lamps cannot be measured correctly due to their pulsed nature.
If this proves to be the case I will try to suggest another measuring method,  it would involve using a second electrolytic capacitor now
directly across the LED lamps, just across the main positive and negative output points (i.e. after the thyristor too).

Thanks, Gyula

PS1: I borrowed the LED lamp symbols from Skywatcher's nice schematic and inserted it into your schematic. We know he has used 5 and
you use 8 LED lamps of course.

PS2: I indicated the input-output connection with a long red arrow via one of the bridge diodes when your input voltage was around 12V DC
and Skywatcher mentioned it that the input could feed the LEDs via that diode. Now with your present 5V USB plug in device this is not
a problem because from 5V input the LED lamps cannot work at all.

[magnetman12003]

Hi magnetman,

Thank you very much for the cooperation!  So the input power to your setup is around 4.5W from the 5V USB plug in device. Very good!

Now we face the puzzle of what electric power the 8 LED lamps may actually consume...    Sure they are all bright.

I took a snapshot from one of your videos where the input and output wires can be best seen at the terminal strip.

I encircled in yellow the + (red) and - (black) wires I assume come from your capacitor C1 of your setup and I think the black wire is connected
to the Cathode of your thyristor and the red wire is connected to one of the common point of the 8 LEDs.
(Of course, the Anode of the thyristor is connected to the outcoming black wire by another piece of black wire as I guess it.)

Now if you would be so kind to check the DC voltage across the black and red wires ending in the terminal strip where I indicated a voltmeter
symbol, then we would have an idea how many volts can be in capacitor C1.  It is possible you would find fluctuating
(jumping up and down) voltage values as the thyristor discharges C1 (of course an oscilloscope would be the best here
but you may not have one).  Nevertheless, try to check the voltage there by a DMM both in the DC and AC voltage ranges. 

(Normally a sawtooth like waveform riding on a DC level rules across a puffer capacitor when it is loaded,
the frequency of the sawtooth is dictated by the thyristor: how frequently it is able to discharge the capacitor.)

The output current the LED lamps may consume could be checked in any of their common wires, in your schematic I indicate a current meter
in the negative common wire that goes to the 8 LEDs. But it could be measured also in their common positive wire.
I cannot make it out from the snapshot so I encircled two wires that may go to the LED bulbs, if these indeed go to them, then current could be
checked in any one of them.

Sorry for my 'curiosity' and for any inconvenience I may cause with such questions.  It is possible that using a DMM the true output voltage
and current fed to the LED lamps cannot be measured correctly due to their pulsed nature.
If this proves to be the case I will try to suggest another measuring method,  it would involve using a second electrolytic capacitor now
directly across the LED lamps, just across the main positive and negative output points (i.e. after the thyristor too).

Thanks, Gyula

PS1: I borrowed the LED lamp symbols from Skywatcher's nice schematic and inserted it into your schematic. We know he has used 5 and
you use 8 LED lamps of course.

PS2: I indicated the input-output connection with a long red arrow via one of the bridge diodes when your input voltage was around 12V DC
and Skywatcher mentioned it that the input could feed the LEDs via that diode. Now with your present 5V USB plug in device this is not
a problem because from 5V input the LED lamps cannot work at all.

USB input to setup  5.03 volts at 1.15 amps. (5.7845 watts)  Output from setup capacitor to bulbs  5.93 volts at 1.03 amps  (6.1079 watts)  I checked this many times and came up to the same results.
A plus .3234 watts unknown ?? power.  All bulbs lit brightly during the test.