Dr Ronald Stiffler SEC technology

[gyulasun]

Gyula - good idea with the Slayer type of setup. But would such a thing actually switch at that speed, their normal free running characteristics put them at around 2 MHz. Will try it anyway
...

Well,  see this sketch how I thought first to drive a coil (tuned to 27 MHz self resonant frequency) via a tap with your 9 MHz oscillator.  But now that you mention the Slayer oscillator, then indeed simpler to make a separate primary coil of 1 to 2 turns and connect it to the oscillator output via a capacitor.  I numbered as 1 and 2 where the primary coil could be connected and in this case the bottom of the secondary coil could be left either floating or tied to the negative rail. 
This way the secondary could be driven by magnetic coupling to the primary coil and you would need to achieve 27 MHz resonance in the secondary (i.e. the 3rd harmonic of the 9 MHz). 
This kind of feeding the secondary (i.e. by coupling) does not involve switching, a normal Faraday induction is involved like in transformers so the bad shape of the waveform is no problem in this case.

But Nick questions this laborious task which certainly differs in frequency from 13.5 MHz so it is up to you of course. 

Gyula

[Lidmotor]

  The focus seems to be on the 13MHz frequency now and Doc's SEC exciters dance in that realm.  There are other frequency 'spikes' that work but perhaps not as well???  It is all about resonance.  Kinda like good songs but different songs.   
   All of us are pursuing this in slightly different ways but along the way we are finding new things.  It's great.  I have really missed working on these group projects. 
   That said--- these new leds are perhaps where the magic is.  The best way to drive them is where the adventure become really fun.

--- Lidmotor

[NickZ]

  The focus seems to be on the 13MHz frequency now and Doc's SEC exciters dance in that realm.  There are other frequency 'spikes' that work but perhaps not as well???  It is all about resonance.  Kinda like good songs but different songs.   
   All of us are pursuing this in slightly different ways but along the way we are finding new things.  It's great.  I have really missed working on these group projects. 
   That said--- these new leds are perhaps where the magic is.  The best way to drive them is where the adventure become really fun.

--- Lidmotor

Agreed.  Looks like you are getting somewhere with that bulb. Your capacitive effects are much better than before.
As now the bulb dies when touching it. However, I don't think that you need to add the aluminum block, as that is a grounding source, which I believe needs to be avoided, in this case. The bulb need to light without aluminum blocks, grounds, or touching it, using only 20v output to it, or so. Right?   I think that the main thing is the the bulbs have some sorts of metal backing, that is very close to the leds.
Not like my last led bulb with the 24leds, and reflector. The reflector is too far away from all the leds themselves to provide the best capacitive effects. Your last corn cob bulb also has some of the led far from the aluminum back plate.
The best thing is for the leds to be right next to the metal backing plate (heatsink).
   I'm glad to be working with you guys on this, as well.
   I tried to solder the diodes on to my reflector spot light bulb, but the solder won't stick to it.   I think that is may also be important to use the same connectors that he uses, as they are also within the EM field.

The coils possibly also need to be properly turned to 13MHz for best interaction.

[gyulasun]

Hi Rusty,
I also think the Alu block can be left out of the game, I mention this here
https://overunity.com/17249/dr-ronald-stiffler-sec-technology/msg522438/#msg522438 

Wish you much fun.
Gyula

[Lidmotor]

Nick---This new bulb I found has a thin AL ring with fingers that the leds are all mounted on.  It is actually a flat plate rolled up.  I tried driving this array several ways off the SEC 18.  It worked just fine the old way with just an AV plug stuck on the input wire but I wanted to try the Doc's new way.  I couldn't get it to light up driving off the heat sink unless I used the Al block or basically shorted the AV plug back to the (-) SEC input. It was kinda like Doc showed in that 1st video a week or so ago.  That was before he started playing around with just the signal generator to drive his board. 
   I don't know where this project is going but I hope to get something to 'field test' for my next sailboat trip to Catalina Island later on this summer.  The island is 30 miles away from anything that might be called 'external input' and this stuff is great fun to play around with while at sea.

---Lidmotor