Dr Ronald Stiffler SEC technology

[gyulasun]

I wondered too :|

In your above photos on the circuit I cannot see the capacitor which originally connected between choke L3 (labeled as negative out) and the negative supply rail.  That series LC gives the feedback for the oscillator, without feedback there can be no oscillations.   Sorry if you have that capacitor on the board in the above pictures but I cannot see it.   
Another issue:   In the original schematic, the 1N4148 diode output (labeled as positive out)  is connected to one of the LED pins.  Where did you connect the other pin of the  LED ?  Originally it connected to the variable capacitor and the negative output of the choke L3,  but where did you connect it?   It is lit....   and this is why I asked whether it is lit by oscillations or ?? 

Gyula

[Slider2732]

Have done a lot with the GBluer circuit over the weekend and can make some observations on your struggles erfandl.
My own version works, but hasn't the output brightness shown in either GBluer's or Lidmotor's versions.
1.5V AAA powered, using 1000uH axial inductors.
The circuit doesn't start up on its own with my breadboard build, it needs the transistor Collector to be momentarily grounded.
Tuning with an AM/FM radio variable capacitor sort of works, but only from max brightness to minimum brightness, with no sweet spot.
As the var cap is turned, the ground to Base LED fades out - I note that your LED isn't on at all, so the tuning appears to be out of range at least.
It'll run an LED on an AV plug directly from the Collector.
Brightness of the whole thing increases markedly, if you sit both of the input inductors right next to each other. The circuit suddenly flips into a higher output if they are touching lengthwise.
Transistor type affects output, based on hFE and the usual factors, so it's not a switching situation.
2SC3198 is best so far, but i'll try MPSA06 and MPSA18 this morning.
Extra 1000uH inductors in parallel dim the output, which I thought was odd.

All in all, my own has a long way to go too.

Shown here with a 1W LED on the output.

[erfandl]

In your above photos on the circuit I cannot see the capacitor which originally connected between choke L3 (labeled as negative out) and the negative supply rail.  That series LC gives the feedback for the oscillator, without feedback there can be no oscillations.   Sorry if you have that capacitor on the board in the above pictures but I cannot see it.   
Another issue:   In the original schematic, the 1N4148 diode output (labeled as positive out)  is connected to one of the LED pins.  Where did you connect the other pin of the  LED ?  Originally it connected to the variable capacitor and the negative output of the choke L3,  but where did you connect it?   It is lit....   and this is why I asked whether it is lit by oscillations or ?? 

Gyula

yeah capacitor is connected between L3 and negative rail. the other led pin is connected to variable capacitor and negative output.

[NickZ]

Gyula,

i will tinker again this evening.

concerning the used led strip, i found the following website showing an example and put down some specs below:
https://www.beslist.nl/klussen/d0018768908/R7S_LED_Lamp_11W_Warm_Wit_135mm.html

# Replacement for 150W 240V halogene lamp
# 11W @ 90-260V AC
# Type LED Epistar 5050 SMD   

It has 3 strips (parallel??) and i use only 1 strip, meaning it can handle/supply about 11 / 3 = 3.6W (50W equivalent)
I estimate the brightness i had yesterday on about 1/3th of it being on the grid.



Nick,

concerning the L3 coil, i found this website/picture:
http://www.tuks.nl/Mirror/Dr_Stiffler/SEC18_1.htm.html

Comparing with the 1N4148 diodes (3.5mm long) i guestimate that the coil has the following dimensions:
former diameter: 20mm
former length:   50mm
nbr of turns:    70

But its like seychelles says, its not that critical.

Itsu

   Itsu:  Thanks for the info on the L3.
   The mag wire he used looks fairly thick, and with fewer turns that what I'm using now. So, I'll try to remove some more turns, and see what happens. But, I think that to actually see the effect, we may not be very close, at all. And considering the low light output from the LED, as compared to the input source.
   Could you please PM me the shipping order number, again, so that I can verify that it is your order that has come to the post office, instead of to me house.
   BTW: Has Dr. Stiffler mentioned what transistor he is currently using on his latest tests?  No?
As the transistor he is using now, (may be that critical), in order to see the proper effects, along with a 13.5MHz tuned L3 coil.I think that it's there, that the mystery lies, and which the Doc is not mentioning.

[Slider2732]

Nick - good point, I think the presumption of any Dr. Stiffler demo is MPSA06, as uV mentioned and as are fitted to SEC-18's. But it would be good to know. I've also never seen a comparison vid of an MPSA06 and 1 of those special transistors, perhaps side by side running something.


Update: some progress with the GBluer circuit.
A 120+120 of 40AWG on a ferrite core dramatically improved the Base LED, to the point of looking 'normal' for this circuit lol
The Collector output 1mH axial inductor remains the same.
The 1W LED looks the same as it did in the previous pic, so you can tell the difference that the wound version has made.
It still doesn't auto start up with a 1Meg resistor, or any value down to 100K.


Update again: Holy buckets of fish...check out what happened when the 3rd axial inductor was removed and the 1W LED was connected to the Collector diode and Base (2SC3198) !!!
The Base LED was knocked out of action and the var cap does nothing, but the light output of the 1W LED is vastly improved.
No idea what it's done to the current input yet.