Confirmation of OU devices and claims

[gyulasun]

Hi AG,

My answer has been moved to this thread more appropiate for its topic: 
https://overunity.com/12736/kapanadze-cousin-dally-free-energy/msg534604/#msg534604   
Gyula

[seaad]

Is he selling a kit with parts mounted on nice "footboards" that will not operate correctly gathered together.
And people pays willingly  for that?
Maybe the perpendicular way is the only way that cerates some good effects?

/ Arne

[itsu]

I don't know Arne, i tried the satellite coils (and big coil) in all possible positions and combinations, but the "all vertical" yields the best results.

Itsu

[seaad]

Thanks Itsu
I suspected that because of my experience. I have been dealing / tinker with radio a good part of my life.
Arne

[Dbowling]

https://youtu.be/WWa81kmhVyc[/font]


This is a video of the generator I have built. I have released all the information necessary for replication, but so far no one I know of has built more than a one or two coil model to see if what I have shown will work. It is an expensive build. I know because I have built MANY versions of this machine to get to the point I am at now.


If anyone is interested in replicating, I can give you whatever data you need to be successful. Here is my data on my BIG machine which I show in the BACKGROUND of this video, but is NOT the one I recommend building as it will be prohibitively expensive, although I am willing to give info on it also. The machine is turned by an MY1020 Razor Scooter motor running on 24 volts at just under 12 amps, or a bit less than 300 watts. Some of that is recoverable, which none of you want to believe, but I will fight THAT battle another day. Output is around 130 volts at 1.4 amps per coil. The big machine has 12 coils so puts out between 1800-2000 watts.


The smaller machine I am going to talk about here, and which I show in the video, only has 10 coils, so the output is LESS. But it also uses less power to run, so there are advantages in the smaller machine. Cost is a BIG difference.


The magnets on the rotor need to be 1"x 3/4" neos. There should be at least 12 on each side of the rotor as I describe in the video, and ALWAYS an even number. One side of the rotor has positive magnets facing out, and the other side of the rotor has negative magnets facing out, the pair of magnets are attracted to each other through a very thing piece of plastic that is NOT machined out of the rotor when the holes for the magnets are created. This locks the magnets into the rotor so you do not have to worry about them EVER coming out...even when you WANT them to. The rotor also needs to be thick enough so that NO PART of the magnet extends above the surface of the rotor. This is incredibly important for both safety and tolerances. Air gap between rotor and coils is about 1/16 of an inch. Energy production of the coil is EXPONENTIAL to the decrease in air gap, so it needs to be TIGHT.


The coils are wound with 24 strands of #23 wire each 127 feet in length. One foot at each end is NOT wound on the coil, so the coil is wound with 125 foot strands. Eight strands are connected in series. So you have three wires going off the coil. Each wire is composed of eight strands connected in series. I hope that makes sense.


There are three issues that prevent most generators being run by an electric motor, and solving those problems makes this machine work.


1. As rotor magnets pass the iron cores of the coils there is an attraction of the magnet to the iron. The more coils you have, the more iron, so the more drag. This causes the motor to draw more amps, and with only a few coils in place, a stock electric motor will exceed the recommended amp draw and go up in smoke. With the design I am showing, whenever the rotor magnet is aligned between two coils on the stator, both of which it is attracted to, the magnet directly across the rotor is between two adjustable magnets in REPULSION mode. By adjusting the repulsion to equalize with the attraction, you get a free wheeling rotor. WITHOUT these repulsion magnets in place, my big machine draws more amps than the digital meter (30 amp meter) can measure. With them in place it draws 12 amps. The smaller machine will draw LESS.


2. The second issue is that when you put a generator coil under load, the self induction of the coil creates a magnetic field that repels the approaching magnet until it reaches top dead center on the coil, at which time the field flips polarity and attracts the rotor magnet as it is moving away. The coils I have described how to build, because of their increased capacitance, delay the self induction until such time as the magnet is aligned with the coil, at which time the repelling field is produced, pushing the rotor magnet away in the direction of rotation. You can reduce this motive force by reducing the rpm of the motor, and you WANT to do this. You do NOT want a Lenz assisted rotation of the rotor because it affects the output of the coil. Maximum output of the coil is achieved when Lenz neither delays nor accelerates the rotation of the rotor.


3. The third issue is heat. Constant changing of flux in iron cores produces heat and will MELT THE WIRE RIGHT OFF THE COIL if the generator is run for too long. This is the issue I am working on. Ferrite may reduce the heat. Heat sinks on the back end of the coils may reduce the heat. I have been using Gatorade bottles filled with water. The cores of my coils stick out the back of the bobbin a bit over an inch. I take the lid off a gatorade bottle and drill a hole in the cap that fits over the coil core. Then I epoxy the the cap onto the core, fill the bottle with water, and screw it into the lid. The water cools the core and the air cools the water. SO far it is working, but hopefully someone here will have some better ideas. If not, and I build a machine big enough to run my house, I know what I will use for a hot water heater.


One last thing. EVERY coil will speed up under load at the right frequency. The frequency is determined by the speed at which a SINGLE magnet moves from one side of the coil to the other. Putting more magnets on a rotor that is turning at the same rpm does NOT change this frequency. I know. I have tried. The frequency for coils with three strands 1000 feet long is 2800 rpm on the size rotors I am using with the size magnets I am using. With 12 strands of wire, each 250 feet long and four connected in series so STILL three wires 1000 feet long coming off the coil, that frequency drops to 1900 rpm. With 24 wires (8 strands in series) it drops even lower. You increase the capacitance of the coil by adding ADDITIONAL STRANDS in parallel and connecting them in series. The number of wires on the coil determine amperage output. In my case every coil has "3" wires even though those three wires are composed of strands wound in parallel and connected in series. The LENGTH of the wires determine voltage. All my coils have 3 wires 1000 feet long.  The increased capacitance of the coil as a result of the way it is wound lengthens the output pulse of the coil, so there is less "off time" on the scope with the higher capacity coil even though the rpm of the rotor is the same, the amount of wire is the same and the rotor is the same. 


This is a teaching machine. It will teach you a lot if you choose to build it. It is also COP>1 by quite a ways.
I am here to answer any questions I can, but please bear with me. I have SEVERAL versions of this machine in my shop. One has six coils on it. one 10, one 12. All use the same coil, but rotors are different, sizes are different, and once in a while I give info on one machine that really belongs to another. Can't help it. I'm just getting old.


I am not going to argue with ANYBODY here about whether this works or not. I have built too many of these and have had them running on my bench to put up with that nonsense. If you don't believe it works, DON"T build it. Up to you. Within the next couple months I will have one of these machines up and running in my shop, and can show some video. The big machine is at a lab for independent testing. The ten coil machine that was in pieces on the bench, I can't find the parts for because of the move from one house to another, so I am converting the one assembled machine that you saw in the video which holds 12 coils. I have to be able to use the opposing magnets, so I am basically putting three coils on each side of the rotor, and using the holes for the other three coils on each side of the rotor to put in apposing magnets. It won't put out as much power as either of the other machines, but it will prove my point, and I will have video of it running with inputs and outputs. I am not selling anything. No kits, no rotors, no coils, nothing. Maybe an autographed picture, but that's about it.
Dave