user TURBO?s replication of Steven Mark?s TPU ?

[gotoluc]

This is my first post    I have been watching the TPU development for 2 weeks now and I think I would be confident now to build a TPU with all the new results and posts that giantkiller has just made. Thank you GK  and all the oters who have made this possible.

@Giantkiller, I see your TPU on the rulers in the pic and noticed that it is 4 inches diamiter  is this correct? because your instructions say it is 6 inches?

Thanks

[otto]

Hello all,

@GK

connect a light bulb

Otto

[Spherenot]

@Giantkiller, I see your TPU on the rulers in the pic and noticed that it is 4 inches diamiter   is this correct? because your instructions say it is 6 inches?

So,... women lie about their age.

[aether22]

GK, your a gem!

In the history of Free Energy, the largest problem is those with success not sharing enough to ensure a successful replication. (Sure, they share, but often the devil is in the details, never more than with these technologies where some devices will only work once ever)
Naturally a great deal of your details could be changed without issue, but something has lead to success in your device that others have not found despite making very similar devices.
I know you know that, I just want to explain why I'm going to ask so many stupid questions.


>@ aether22: keep the questions coming. It makes better doco.


1: Why tip41a, do you think it will work better than a MOSFET?
1.5: Does the sharp on time seem to be key, do you think tip41a is faster?

2: Your drawing says that the collector coils are connected to the positive by a 100ohm 1/4 watt resistor each, but the resistors in your photo are not in a 1/4w package, is it that they run cool that you figure 1/4 watt is all that is needed? (stupid question I guess)

3: The green wire like that is used for for flower arranging I believe also, it looks to be between 1/32nds or 3/64ths of an inch (about 1 or 2 mm). Do you know if it is steel or iron, also is it magnetically soft? (before you started)

4: I don't think you have yet answered as to if the magnetic fields created by a single control coil have the segments bucking or not, and if not which way is the magnetic field within the coil? cw or ccw, and are all the control coils identicle in that respect? - this will effect how people wind their controller coils!

5: Ok, this is a stupid question but could possibly be important, when winding the control coil segments, did you do a single layer back and forth until you got to 200, or did you scramble wind it from where is started to where it ends about 68 degrees to the right or left, or was a single layer about 200 turns anyway?

6: Really really dumb question, which layer has the 555 with the 4.7uf cap?

7: How much current do your 555's pull (in total) if you know? (it may effect what powersource people use for the low power side, I'd use a 9v battery with a larger value resistor on the transistor if it's not too much)


Operation:

Please explain how you go about getting results, you need to look at the scope output and get it to do what?
is the magnet required to get results? And do you get results with either pole?
You tune all 3 555's to about the same frequency (or do you try to get them as close as pos.?), in the 200hz area?(261hz)
are you finding that specific frequencies work best, if so how is the bandwidth? (is it a sharp Q?)

How long does it take from sitting down and begining tuning in the 555's till you generally have a build up condition with heat or gyroscopic forces?
Have your gyrpscopic forces increased?
Have to detected the washboard effect?

BTW I note that there is about a 22 degree gap between control coils approx, and hence coils cover about 68 degrees.

I wanna come join you over there soooo bad!

[giantkiller]

Here are tonights results:
I put 3 freqs in. tuned them to around 100hz. The coils clicks and warms up.
As I brought each freq down to about 60, the clicks/spikes on the scope appear in different times. As spike appear jumping around, the coil warms up to hot. I get all 3 freqs somewhere around 60hz and the coil gets the hottest. Only 1 load resistor gets even warm. Thats it. Damndest thing I've ever noticed. Now everybody would try to get the most spikes on the scope as possible, right? Well here is my claim to fame. The coil doesn't want smooth. The hottest and best temperature are when the 3 freqs are close and low. Of course I get drift. So there is random banging of waves. So when the scope shows 1 to 3 spikes with random spacing, the coil performs the best. Best? what does it do? it gets hot. No power yet. BUT! you put your hand on it and it feels like that flesh jingle when you touch 120ac. Come on you know the feeling. It is the only time death feels inviting. LOL. On the coil you can feel the power waves cross over your hand. I like my hand a little on the rare side. Not crispy. I use my right hand so I won't write with a limp.

Anyway. The site is really up to level tonight for great doco & question submissions. It is great to have the feeling that others are on board. I started out the day feeling like a National security threat.

I have some improvements to make. I have noticed that I have 100 ohms in line with the feedbacks and the control coils. I need to keep the 100 ohms in line with the controllers and not the collectors. But if all this coil configuration does is get hot then that still is a greater step to work with. This step needs others anyway. So basically we have 3 freqs, spikes, harmonics, & heat. To me that says  a productive platform for more testing.

--giantkiller.