user TURBO?s replication of Steven Mark?s TPU ?

[aether22]

I strongly encourage anyone with a coil outputting anything at all to look at it on the scope.

You can't create DC with electromagnetic or even parastatic induction, so if you have more 'area' on the scope in one direction than the other you have a working TPU like device no matter how weak it is!

And likely from there you can make a fully fledged FE device (TPU or other) simply by making improvements and seeing the results.

Once you are there I suggest that you look around at ideas on this board, pieces of other FE devices and such to see if each one is an improvement or not.

BTW the reason (and I was told this long ago but at the time didn't believe it) that short pulses work is that it apparently induces the aether to flow when the electrons haven't had a chance to react apparently, so this creates an aether flow.

And one of the best things for creating such a pulse is a collapsing magnetic field from an electromagnet (opened by switch), capture the back emf spike and use that.

If you are seeing more area on the scope in one direction (10ms at 20v is equal area to 20ms at 10v and hence normal induction) then please do tell us in as much detail you can stand so we can replicate your device and or understand why it is working, I don't care if your getting no current.

Also please remember to set the scope use the GND function of your scope so you know where 0v is and then measure with the scope on DC coupling not AC!

Now one last tip then I swear I'm done, aether flows induce (or enhance?) aether flow at 90 degrees, so if you have aether flowing through a coil you'll get a beam of aether out of it, I have seen that in different things ad nauseum!


EDIT: on the off chance I get whacked for spilling the beans ;) I'll tell you how likely you could get or enhance and AG possibility with a device like this, first you'd probably want to add an AL or Steel or Iron core (keep the wood too as it seems to work), a single or perhaps 3 seperate single turn hoop coils (I can't decide it it would work better with each one being welded/soldered close or if a break or poor connection would be of benefit)
Then with sufficient insulation charge the hoops (single turn coils) positivle with hopefully 15kv or so keeping the 90 degree control coils with a net netural or even negative charge. (obviously if they are grounded they will become negative, of course bismuth and mercury are 'friends' of AG)

Actually Steve, if your reading this would you mind trying this? Go on you know you want to!


EDIT2: My idea for feedback, first IMO 2 rings are enough, 3 collectors maybe as you could have more than one collector per ring, we know SM made TPU's with only 2 rings, we don't know he ever used 3.
Have a collector in the top ring connected in series  to a controller wound coil in the bottom ring and visa versa, this way an aetheric  feedback should be created, take the output from a 3rd (and 4th?) collector, also you ought to have a rotating field with controller coils chasing the aether in circles as SM apparently said.

[otto]

Hello all,

as I see some people are dissapointed, they cant get power from their TPUs... dont give up!! Maybe a little help from me:

My control coils, each: 4 segments, each segment has 170 turns, that means each control coil has 680 turns.
We all have 3 oscillators and on the outputs of the oscillators we should have MOSFETs to pulse our control coils. MOSFETs are a MUST!!! Not oridinary transistors!!!
First I used a IRF 510 and nothing happened. Then I used a IRF 730 and my output pulses 170V. Nice but not enouhg and I tried IRF 840. Now I have pulses over 220V!! Thats gooood!
You ask how I did it? Its very easy: Im pulsing one control coil with one frequency. On the other side of my control coil is the +. My scope is connected to the collector coil. I see little pulses induced on my collector coil. Now I connect my collector coils in a Y configuration. Y !! That means on one side I have connected the 3 collector coils TOGETHER. The other side of my collectors are "open". Nothing jet connected. As I said, I see little kicks when I pulse a control coil. Now, this little signal from my collector coil Im feeding back to the pulsed side of the control coil. THIS IS IMPORTANT!!!! I connect a wire from my collector coil to my pulsed control coil!! The kicks are increasing dramatically!!!! In the picture are resistors. In this moment Im NOT USING resistors because I dont want to heat my home with them. By the way my pulses from the square wave generator are 4V and from my power supply 12-13V.
Now, if I pulse the other control coils too and feed back the signals I get my 100W light bulb glowing.
In the picture you will see the outer coil connected to + and the other side to the "end" of the control coils. This setup Im using at the moment.

In the last days I saw something interesting:

Grumpy posted some important things: high frequency, high voltage, fast on and fast off pulses. Please read his posts. I saw that a higher frequency gives me a much better light on my bulb with 240V pulses. I mean a frequency over 1MHz.

I will try to post my setup.

Otto

[otto]

Hello all,

in my picture you see the control coils as one coil. This coil is of course in 4 segments and connected like Teslas patent for a rotating magnetic field (cant remember patent no.)

Otto

[aether22]

Otto, are you reading those voltages with a DC or AC setting on your meter/scope? I was very excited because I thought you did it, but one thing has me wondering.

In the diagram you have control coils connected to collector coils, now I think this is fine as long as you aren't measuring the output on any collector coil that is connected to an energized control coil.

Now with a coil as complex as your's there is no way to eliminate some kind of conventional induction because you'd still have single turn induction from the control coils and parastatic (capacitive) coupling.

So please can you put an oscilloscope across your bulb and see if you have DC (or a net DC) induction?

A multimeter MIGHT MIGHT MIGHT pass for a scope, if what you have is DC then it should read on the DC voltage setting of a multimeter where distorted AC may not, I just tried it and indeed it seems to hold up so long as there is a net DC voltage it will read even if it goes negative a bit.

[otto]

Hello all,
@aether 22

1. My light bulb is connected to the minus and the other end to the collector coil
2. My analog ampermeter measures the amperes at the power supply
3. My scope (on DC) is connected to the collector coils where the bulb is connected. When I swith my scope to AC I have the same kicks. In fact I have on every coil and on every point in my TPU 220-240V kicks.
4. I tried to measure my voltage with a digital volt meter. On DC I have say, 160V and on AC 200V. But digital meters we cannot use because we have a high frequency and the reedings are not relevant.

I tried to conect the collector coils in series, parallel, series+parallel but it was not so good as in my Y configuration.
I also tried to pulse the control coils connected in series, parallel....not good.

Please dont now think this is the original TPU setup. I can only say this is in the moment my best setup.
I have a big problem: my 3 oscillators dont give me the same signals (square waves) on their outputs but Im working on this.
What I know for shure is that at least one frequency is over 1 MHz.