rotoverter for power generation

[oouthere]

This one.

Rich

some of you might find this ev-gray message interesting:
"Hello all,

Tonight I achieved over unity with an RV conversion variation.

For PM I used a junkyard 10hp 3 phase 1725RPM motor. Wired for RVPM.

No load other then turning an un loaded alternator with 37uf of
capacitance, .6 amps at 120.5v ac (from inverter). 72.3 watts.

For an alternator I used an old (I mean old) single phase, 120v
1/3hp 1725 motor. I used a belt to connect the two, the pulleys were
almost the same, alternators a little smaller so it was being over
driven a bit.

No load and 62uf I was at 159v and 6.6 amps with PM at 40uf and 1.8
amps at 120.5v.
I then loaded the alternator with (4) 100watt 120v light bulbs, (2)
in series (2 pairs in parallel). It seams you have to let the
alternator load up with capacitance then hook up the light bulbs. It
would not generate when I started with the bulbs connected.

Alternator loaded with (4) 100 watt light bulbs (at full brightness)
I had 4.7 amps at 125v (587 watts). The numbers were the same at the
bulbs, caps or right off the alternator.

With alternator loaded PM was at 62uf and 2.6 amps at 120.5v. 313.3
watts.

Gota run,

Jason"

[oouthere]

esaruoho,

I am new to RV. Seems you are much more experienced. So my question to you is, where is the RV OU from? Drive motor?

thks

Hank

Hi Hank,

I'm in the process of learning and will give you what I know, or at least what I think I know.

The drive motor (prime mover) when tuned properly will give you a highly efficient motor and some highly technical types getting 500%+ overunity.  But I'm not that technically minded and use the basics of the RV concept without going into the coils and rewiring them.  So with a basic RV drive motor in good tune you can break over unity by about 25% from my understanding.  I have not torque testing my set-up but this is what I have so far on my high speed 7.5hp prime mover and low speed 5hp alternator coupled 1:1.....

input is 121VAC @ 5.4amps=653.4 watts
output (actually power tuned INSIDE the alternator) is 420VAC @ 8.7 amps=3,654 watts

The problem is the load has to be tuned to the power output using capaciters for maximum efficiency, not the power tuned to the load.  Inside the alternator it looks like over unity but I have not managed to get it out of the alternator yet but it does look promising. I thought I had it last night but apparently need much more capaciter capacity than I do now.

Did I just stir-up mud in the pond?

Rich

[ashtweth_nihilisti]

Guys don't forget you cannot load series resonance like you do a resistive load, elt driving a stepping up GENs , also Freq driving needs more testing.

With the RV alt i would apply David Kous' Neon switcher.
Ill have our tests done tomorrow and will post some results.

The Alt is complicated, i would start with the neon on the prime mover first.
dont forget to READ THE ADVANCED RV RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT COMPILATION FOR IDEAS ON THE ALT

http://panacea-bocaf.org/RotoVerter.htm

[hanker886]

Rich,

Thanks for explanation. I am totally new to this and hope to learn more from you guys. I still have to adjust to the ideal of tuning the load for max result. My imagination is that when motor is working, there must be magnetic fields rotaing around the motor itself. Wonder if we can somehow modify the motor and use additional windings to extract the energy?  Or is that what RV does?

Hank

[ashtweth_nihilisti]

hanker the RV can be a great learning tool, essentially its best to apply it into energy savings first, for a beginner i suggest you read
the comps on the RV page i posted.,
Regards
Ashtweth