New positive proof of a working Newman fan motor charging a battery

[mrd10]

Hi Stefan,

I have been replicating Johns bedini device, (mainly Rick Friedrich self runner), then Jason told me about this one  so I have some experience, this reminds me of the windows motor, the more turns on my drive coil, the less current i was using.

I do have an analog amp meter, just didnt connect it up, might go and do that now.

Might just wrap some more wire on this one before building larger version.

Rgds,

Dom

[hartiberlin]

Just watching his vid again, I reckon wire size is .5mm diam, and im going to shoot for 200ohms if i can, or very close to it.

Just an observation to help others here with replication. So i'll be making another one.

Dom

Well, 200 Ohms DC resistance ,when the rotor is not rotating is
a good value at 12 Volts battery supply because it will then draw 60 MilliAmps,
when the rotor is not spun.
When it will rotate  the input current will go down.

So with 0.5 mm diameter wire you will need many windings, I hope you
have so much wire left.

If you still have more wire left, try to go with 250 to 300 Ohms DC resistance.

[hartiberlin]

Hi Stefan,

I have been replicating Johns bedini device, (mainly Rick Friedrich self runner), then Jason told me about this one  so I have some experience, this reminds me of the windows motor, the more turns on my drive coil, the less current i was using.

I do have an analog amp meter, just didnt connect it up, might go and do that now.

Might just wrap some more wire on this one before building larger version.

Rgds,

Dom

Okay, Dom, you might just check now the input current.
Maybe also with brass(or better copper)<->graphite as the contact points your input current will already go down
and/or if you make the contact time shorter.

[mrd10]

Hey Stefan,

You read my mind, I made the contact 4 to 5 mm now on the commutator, before it was about 10mm.

@ 10mm i was drawing about 40mA's, when i cut it to 4 to 5mm the current draw now is less than 20mA's, I had to adjust the contacts abit, it's only a rough job, but it works.
Looks like same speed as before, you have to adjust it so you can see those nice blue sparks.

The battery voltage now is bouncing all over the place, like it would go down to 12.95, then back to 13.03volts, then all sort of numbers inbetween, so this maybe a good indication that your pulse charging the battery. I have left it running, i'll check back in afew hours, hopefully it still going.

The wire spool of 500grams @ .56mm that i have measures 15.5ohms, I have some left over of .4mm and .5mm, might marry all this together on a larger unit.

So from what i can see, adjusting the commutator will be important, as you want to use as little current as possible, wire turns may not be that critical, but alot will be a good thing.

Kind Rgds,

Dom

[CLaNZeR]

here's my attempt although smaller, need to findout how much current im drawing
Commutator might need to be made smaller, i.e the contact

the wire is .25mm diam @ 58 ohms

I might also get away from using brass commutator and just use the actual shaft.
also wind much more coil around it.

Dom

Excellent Dom, well done

Have got a couple of 500G reels this end of Enamelled Copper wire one is 30SWG and the other 27SWG.
I am tempted to try wind a coil around a cylinder, do you have to tape between each layer?, or just wind back and forth stripping the insulation back a little bit everynow and then so you can measure the resistance?

Regards

Sean.