New positive proof of a working Newman fan motor charging a battery

[mrd10]

Thanks Stefan, for the tips.

Just another observation I made looking at Chucks unit, has anyone noticed that the middle of the unit looks fatter, than the top and bottom, this would suggest to me that he may have criss crossed in the centre more, hmm this may have an advantageous effect on charging, I know from some experiments that others have done, by twisting cables together or crossing them, you get higher voltages.  Something to think about, I'm sure going to try it. as you can see my unit doesnt look like chucks in the centre.

Ive attached 4 pics, oh Stefan your right the analog AMP meter was changing the results on the DMM.
when i removed it, it stabilised the voltage between 12.99 and 13.01volts, youll see this in one of the pics.

Dom

[TheOne]

I still put the wire over mine, my wire is 1mm tick and my finger cannot handle it anymore! for a computer guys its to much

[CLaNZeR]

I have only got one Ring Magnet a 2" Neo, so decided to use some brass brackets to hold it center.

Gonna go lathe the shafts now and tap then out so they screw up tight to the threads.
Seems well balanced.

Then off to wind a coil, going to see if putting the lathe on slow speed will save aching hands LOL

[mrd10]

Hi Guys

The newman machine has been running about 10 hours, and it started at 13.01v, now its down at 12.82volts, less than 20mA current draw.
I'm real curious now to get more information from chuck2na. If he can get on this forum, it would help all of us.

I'm suspecting I need more wire especially in the centre, rather than the ends. The way I see that chuck has wound his , is by doing a criss cross around where the shaft goes through, and this may have some bearing on it's operation.

But again, I'd like to work with numbers, so if we can get the wire size his used , the ohms at least and how he has wound his unit, I think we will be on our way.

Dom

[hartiberlin]

Hi Dom,
the wire from Chuck is probably just bigger inside the center,
cause he had to wind around the axis there,  so the wires bulge out there more...

You now  have to tune your commutator even more, so you get bigger sparks.
One way would be to try a different contact point material.
If you can find some graphite, please try this  so your brass ring metal will
brush a spark with the graphite to make contact.

You can also unscrew your brass holder from the axis and change the angle
of the brass ring versus the magnet and screw tight then again, so that the
magnet position versus contact position is changed.
Sothe motor runs
slower, but has a bigger spark !
This way you will convert more rotational energy back to electrical energy
and the coil then acts more like a generator pushing more BackEMF bursts
back into the battery .

It is now just a point of tuning it, so get the battery staying charged.
Also if you don?t have graphite, try with other metals like
alufoil or magnesium band or zinc metal for the second contact point
versus brass.
You will see, there will be a difference.
Also good would be to put a small incandescent light bulb in series with the minus pole of the battery before
it goes to the commutator, so that you can see the effect of the power of the RF burst lighting up
the bulb.

So then you can optimize the spark for maximum brightness of the bulb
and then afterwards remove ( or shortout) the bulb again to get these RF bursts directly again fed back to the battery.

Also it will help to use short big diameter cables from the commutator to the battery, so not all
power of the RF spark is lost in radiating the power away from smaller sized longer cables...

Regards, Stefan.