Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications

[Pirate88179]

MK1:

We had discussed many possible ways to make the make/break device.  I don't think anyone made one that worked, at least I know I didn't.

But, last year, I was thinking, like you, once I started making JT circuits.  I thought, here is a make/break in a small package (transistor) that Stubblefield never had access to.  It might (probably) have to be a germanium to work on low output but....this may be just the thing.

Bill

[Mk1]

@jeanna

First step i would take would be to rectify the secondary , and put a cap on it.

Then pulse it by hand (connect 5 and 6 and disconnect several times).

I think we also need to be sure we have the wright design, how to do so.

First the bolt most of the time it is steel (tend to stay magnetic not bad but not the best) .

Lets say we built a jt around this bolt would it induce a spike in the secondary placed over it . and how many turns is needed.

Once the bolts and proper numbers of turn have been determined , we need to build the battery with those wires , we can assume an output of around 1.2 volts , same working range as the jt .

then we need a circuit to make and break the 5and 6 connection, not unlike a jt , i still have not figured it all but when NS went to the white house with his battery he also went with Nikolas Tesla , tesla saw the potential for a pulse on demand he most likely put his rotary switching system on it .

The problem we have his to separate the battery and electro magnet parts to see how they work together .

So we have one secondary , one electro magnet , and one battery , the question is how to induce a a pulse in the secondary , then it become obvious .

Now galvanized wire and bare+cotton permeable to electrolyte copper , it need to be strong enough to make a jt work on that bolt.

It is also said that we need electrolyte or earth , so no need to go outside.

Now we always look for magic in those old device , and yes you can pickup waves from many source at milivolt range , so it may be a wild goose chase .

It was also convenient to put those cell in the ground at the telegraph station .

Javex sorry starting the oxidation process. http://www.clorox.ca/products/usage.php?prod_id=clb

Mark

 

edit maybe we could use a ferrite rod instead of a bolt , maybe the same specs we use for the jt...

[jeanna]

I tried the ferrite rod but I only had the one I got from cwx.
I think a welding rod will work.

Anyway, try something
and
read this thread from february '08 forward.
At some point  not long after that like june '08, bill started another thread and there were 2 lines of thought and experiences.
It is worth reading both and much easier than reading the joule thief thread.
This way you will see results of many of the kinds of the things you have been thinking about.

jeanna

Here are a couple of links...
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=3500.msg72680#msg72680
That is the time when the plain earth battery thread began to look more seriously at stubblefield's patents

and

http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=4455.0
This is the thread Bill started in April to focus on bifilar variants.

[electricme]

@Jeanna
Referring to my switchable JT primary windings
I apologise for this very late post regarding the below info, you have been very patient, I have had unforseen events occur which have held me back.

@jim,That will be great.
I look forward to seeing it.

jeanna

In the below photos there is a single toroid.
The left winding has 5 turns, the right winding has 6 turns.

Pass the wire over the top of the toroid, pass it downward and under-neath, when it comes to the outside edge of the toroid, pull the wire out to about 2 inches long, then fold the wire back along it's length. Don't Cut the wire. (This is turn 1).
Now twist this long "loop" all the way to the outside edge of the torid, so it will become tight against the toroid.

Wind "one" more turn around the toroid (turn 2), then make the 2 inch loop (same procedure as the 1st loop).
Now wind more turns around the toroid, making sure you have 2 inch loops to every turn you wind around the toroid.
How many loop ends you want to wind is up to you, but just remember you will need to buy the right rotary switch to reflect the number of loop ends you will have protruding from the toroid itself.
-------------------

The Center lead to the transistors base
OK, remember there is a loop end that you will need to preserve to solder a wire to, because this wire goes to the base of the transistor.
See photo.
------------------

Next, solder or "tin" the wires loop ends, about 1/2" from the toroid itself.
Cut the loop ends off so you have just short stubby copper wires.
-------------------

Next step is to get a "rainbow" ribbon cable wire, or even just single insulated wire, cut each wire about 6" long, strip and tinn the ends.
-------------------

Next solder the "rainbow" or single wires to the ends of the toroid copper wire ends.
------------------

Next get a "multy" gang switch, you will then have to "tin" each loop end and solder each "end" onto seperate switch terminals.
-------------------

Lastly, you must solder a wire to each "feeler contact" that feeds to the "ring" on each rotrary switch, each wire goes to seperate areas on the JT circuit.

Where the battery feeds into the JT toroid (in the circuit) this battery wire goes to the 1st rotary switch center contact.
Where the end of the wire which goes to the collector on the transistor, this goes to the center contact of the 2nd rotary switch
The single loop from the toroid, goes to the transistors base.

jim

more photos coming to make it as clear as mud. 

[electricme]

More info on how to make a switchable input toroid Joule Thief.
JPG 2013
Here is the toroid with the finished turns, each turn I have "looped" by folding the copper wire, then twist this loop until it draws up towards the outside edge of the toroid.

jim.