Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications

[jeanna]

@ Jeanna:

My original led still lights from the single cell and yes, I am using a carbon rod mail ordered from a welding supply shop here in town.

I wish I lived near a beach as I would love to try my cell there and see if it would work in dry sand and just tap into any available telluric currents.  That would be a great control experiment to do.  Dry sand without any electrolite present...water, salt, etc.

Bill

Bill

What I don't get is how that LED of yours lights up.

Here is some of my experience: I was frustrated with my inabilities to follow Teslas papers a few years ago and took a high school electronics class that was open to adults, In the class I made a bunch of LED candles to learn about circuits and to use. I had to make them for 2 AAA batteries with a resistor because one 1.5v battery won't light a LED. A LED needs 1.65v  sometimes more just  to begin lighting.  The same LED will actually burn up and char with 3 v. I think 33ma is the amperage I aimed for with full batteries but that was a mixture of lasting and brightness. (I bought my LED's from allelectronics.com.  good  cheap  timely.

OK so how did you get that diode to start up with what you got from one cell??? This is serious new stuff, I think.
--
Good thought about the beach. I used to live near a beach. I may be able to get a friend willing to try that out.

jeanna

[Artic_Knight]

ok so copper plated steel sounds better to me than just strait copper :p then you have essentially a copper pipe with a iron core for a more magnetic conducting or resonating experience?  damn,..... now i have to try! making a trip later i guess to lows   on a side note if i can find some steel i might try to solder that to the pole later (depending on results) and see if wrapping iron around copper electrode helps? iron conducts magnetics which in theory is just electricity to a certain extent, so both wires soldered onto the electrode if it gets any magnetic current should i would think do a nice magnetic inductance and if theres any electrical potential in it, just add that too :-p

what kind of crazy invention am i coming up with? iron around copper 8ft pole with a crippled tesla coil haha i wonder if it will work! ohh crap im drooling...... 

edit:  oh and why bills cap and poles work? i think because somehow there is a "resonating frequency" or a modulating frequency, rather its amps or volts i think that our readings are just an average because the volt meter cannot read them that fast! i am VERY interested to see what a scope will read like the old school kind with the monochrome screen and the little dot scrolling up and down :p i loved it in school too....

the question is ... does the earth have a heart beat?

if a lightning bolt strikes in tokyo do we get a wave of electricity that bounces in a circular pattern around the world till it finally dies or meets its resistance quota?

maybe what we are getting is a constant lightning bolt trickle effect down our rods? theres a lot of metal in the earth to tap it and we need to find the sweet spot! well im out wife is waiting

[Pirate88179]

@ Jeanna:

Well, I wish I could explain it to you in an intelligent manner but, I don't really know.  I do know that when I first hooked up the cell with the carbon rod and magnesium block the led lit but maybe about 25% bright.  Then, I soldered in a small cap (which is made in China and I cant read the specs, about the size of a hearing aid battery) which I shorted out by getting the polarity wrong on the first try.  I tested it....dead...no volts.  When I hooked that up the led was now maybe 50-60% bright and, it was charging the cap while lit.  After about 30 minutes, I removed the "circuit" and brought it inside.  The led lights off that cap and, still does today even though it has been weeks since I had it hooked up to the cell.  No, I did not leave it burning for all this time, total time illuminated is probably in the neighborhood of 4-6 hours.  what I am really amazed at is that the cap does not appear to "leak" down like I have read that they do.  When my new leds come in from China, I want to see how many I can light up with, and without a larger cap.  I am still trying to figure out how to wire the cell in series for two of them.  I know it should be simple but, I can't seem to get it. As I said in a previous post, there are all types of leds with different ratings.  I paid $5 for this ONE at Radio Shack and now have ordered 40+ from China for $8 which includes shipping!!!!!! (That's total cost)  The rating on the box of the led says..."1.7 volts, 20 mA, 3000mcd."  I don't even know what the mcd is except I think it refers to the brightness?  I also don't know if 1.7volts is the minimum or the maximum or how they rate these things.  I can light it from a single AA bat. (1.5 vdc) but it is not as bright as when hooked to the cell outside.  I have to say that Artic Knight makes some good points about the possible limitations on modern digital voltmeters, ammeters, etc.  My guess is that if I use a larger capacitor and the same thing happens where it will charge while lighting, I believe I can get 2-5 leds burning, maybe more.  I guess this shows what a boring person I am because this is my idea of fun. Ha ha.

Artic Knight:

Did you see the video near the beginning of this thread with the guy with the ground rod and a large, bright led running off it? (He used it to light his bathroom at night as a nightlight)  If not, check it out.  You may be really able to pull some amps out of the earth like he said he did.  I live in an apartment and if I drove an 8 foot rod into the earth, I don't know how I would ever remove it.  Of course, when I move, I guess I could just hammer it down below the surface? I seriously doubt that you will be able to solder anything to the grounding rod as it will act as one very large heat sink and draw off the heat faster than you could add it.  That's why I fashioned a ring out of copper strand wire and tinned it making the inside diameter just the right size to slip over (friction fit) the carbon rod.  I know they make grounding straps that are kind of like a hose clamp that attaches to the ground rods so a wire can be attached, you could try that.  And yes, the earth does have a resonant frequency, I have seen several number as to what it is but it is very low.  Do you think this is "fooling" the capacitor into charging while having a load on it?  Maybe it is like charging the cap with an ac component? Or pulsed dc?  So many questions, so many experiments to perform. You are right about the scope, I would love to see what it looks like with this voltage and current. I don't even really know how to use one but I will learn.  Someone posted that I could rent one which would be cool, as soon as I get some money.

Just a thought...what if the earth is a very large capacitor?  I mean, we have an isolated body that consists of both conducting and insulating materials all mixed together don't we?  Continually being charged by millions of lightning strikes a day and....what about all of those electrons being pumped into the "ground" from everyone's household circuits??  And, on the battery side, we have a planet that is 3/4 water but, not just water, seawater or....an electrolight.  So, it may be both a battery and a capacitor?????

Bill

[jeanna]

@ Jeanna:

Well, I wish I could explain it to you in an intelligent manner but, I don't really know.  I do know that when I first hooked up the cell with the carbon rod and magnesium block the led lit but maybe about 25% bright.  Then, I soldered in a small cap (which is made in China and I cant read the specs, about the size of a hearing aid battery) which I shorted out by getting the polarity wrong on the first try.  I tested it....dead...no volts.  When I hooked that up the led was now maybe 50-60% bright and, it was charging the cap while lit. 

It is not sposed to be able to do that. When I did the LED off a cap in a self designed experiment in that class, I had to unhook it and juice the cap then rehook it. because I was told that the cap would let the juice out the way it came in only. I had this question when I saw that video too. I wondered how big a set up that guy had to power so many leds in his bathroom.
I think this is potentially something really big. well, subtle too.

I think it was this thread where I got the link to a guy talking about radionics and short wave radios coming from the earth where the signal got better over time. etc. subtle and very big too.

After about 30 minutes, I removed the "circuit" and brought it inside.  The led lights off that cap and, still does today even though it has been weeks since I had it hooked up to the cell.  No, I did not leave it burning for all this time, total time illuminated is probably in the neighborhood of 4-6 hours.

wow!  Maybe you could see how long it will run if you leave it on.

what I am really amazed at is that the cap does not appear to "leak" down like I have read that they do. 

Not really, they actually recharge and you have to be really careful with the big ones because you can get a big shock when you thought the thing was drained and it can last for a very long time. (I wanna say years.) but they don't discharge by themselves.

When my new leds come in from China, I want to see how many I can light up with, and without a larger cap.  I am still trying to figure out how to wire the cell in series for two of them.  I know it should be simple but, I can't seem to get it.

You should just solder the short leads to the long leads and chain them. Use LEDs from the same batch because if some have fewer atoms of doping than others some will take the juice and not the rest. I think parallel is the ticket for a string, but I never tried it.

As I said in a previous post, there are all types of leds with different ratings.  I paid $5 for this ONE at Radio Shack and now have ordered 40+ from China for $8 which includes shipping!!!!!! (That's total cost)  The rating on the box of the led says..."1.7 volts, 20 mA, 3000mcd."  I don't even know what the mcd is except I think it refers to the brightness?  I also don't know if 1.7volts is the minimum or the maximum or how they rate these things.  I can light it from a single AA bat. (1.5 vdc) but it is not as bright as when hooked to the cell outside. 

So, 1.7v is the minimum start up, but don't pay any attention to that because you are invoking some kind of (magic) just ignore that.
20mA is how many mA the light needs to shine its brightest. I think more than this won't make it brighter??
3000mcd is minicandelas or microcandelas for its maximum brightness.
One thing really interesting about leds is that if there is less juice they will use less. I had a rack of experimental candles going for about a month 24 x 7. Finally I couldn't see the light anymore and stopped the experiment.

Please describe for me how exactly you have put this together. I want to make one. I have lots of leds left over from that class and I need some outdoor lights and I'd love to make them with earth batteries and caps. It is too dark too often and my solar path light doesn't glow enough.

I fashioned a ring out of copper strand wire and tinned it making the inside diameter just the right size to slip over (friction fit) the carbon rod.

Is that one lead? what did you attach to the copper or was it magnesium that you used? then which side of the cap? + or - and where did you attach the led?  eesh!  please describe.


So many question is right. Who needs to sleep? 

and oh dear I was thinking the earth was a big electric motor not a capacitor, maybe a pot cap? more when there is a sun spot.

jeanna

[Pirate88179]

Jeanna:

This is the third time I have attempted to post this!!  It keeps telling me I have already posted this but it does not post it so..I re-write it and...it says I have already posted this.  So...one more time.

I am trying to post 3 pics.  The first is just a pic of the magnesium block (minus) in the ground with a jumper wire clipped on to it.  The second is the carbon rod and copper wire ring (postiive) and the third is the led circuit. The red wire, + comes off the + side of the cap. and will reach the + side of the led but is only soldered to the cap for now.  The blue wire comes off the - side of the cap and is soldered to the - side of the led.  when I want to light the led I just move the red wire to the + led lead and presto.  When attached to the cell the clip from the carbon rod jumper keeps the red wire and the led lead together along with the copper ring.  The - side of the cap is attached to the jumper coming off the mag. block (-).  If you watch my video maybe it will make more sense to you.  If not, let me know and I will answer any questions you may have.