Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications

[Pirate88179]

@ Bruce:

Sorry for the scare.  My iron (galvanized) spike is 12" long and 1/2" dia.  I used 22 ga. cu and close to the same iron wire. (There was no number on it)  Yes, it looks like a giant nail. I think they are used for nailing landscape timbers together or something.  Well, I just measured the wires with a micrometer and the copper is .040" and the iron is .045".  Like I said, I really did not want to throw the zinc coating into the mix but, when you test this with a neo it jumps to it and does not want to let go.  The re bar they had would not even hold the weight of the small neo magnet itself when placed on the side of it.  I guess we will see.  I hate to think of wrapping another one but, I am sure once we figure out what is best, I will be doing so.

Bill

[jeanna]

deleted post

[Localjoe]

@All

Had some stuff going on i had to deal with sorry i wasn't back earlier.

Well i'll go back a page and start answering here

@jeanna

What bill said was right and non magnetic contact so the springy metal doe sent stick on its way back up.  I actually labeled the wires like in the patent for my drawing.  Only thing bill said in error was that the wires 10 were shorted.. gave bruce a pretty good scare but they are just buried in the ground not shorted.. Thats why when your looking at induction coils this isnt going to look normal yet it still works..   The secondary will be connected to a load so it has nothing to do physically with the primary or relay except the lengths to determine freq, dont worry about your length right now just wing untill you get enough amperage to start the relay.  somewheres around a couple hundred milliamps should do.

@Bill
Thanks for listening    The relay should start on its own and all that should be needed to stop it is to disconnect one of the primary wires from where i show them being connected the other ends leads 10 are left open to preserve the character of the electrodes.

@Bruce

hmmmm im assuming that my wire is iron but im starting to think im wrong ..maybe steel? this stuff is shiny silver and has about 10 strands twisted together. at min .125 inches in diam but its a lil bigger i think theres no freakin markings anywhere on this old spool ive looked so i guess the best i can say is i will post a close up pic of the wire im using with ruler , its about the same diameter as a bic pen. and the copper is a little smaller in diameter.

                                                                                                   Joe

[Bruce_TPU]

Hi Joe,

Your wire looks like steel cable.  Iron wire would be black.  It looks like you have one winding over your nail.  I will get some steel wire today, and try the same thing.  This way I can test both coils.  If we can make it work with steel and galvanized, that would be better.  I am already seeing rust marks on the cloth on my coil.  I have taken it out of the water.

Tonight I will wind a second coil to test with.

Iron may be all that Stubblefield had access too.  Or it may turn out iron is what is needed underground.  We will see.

Cheers,

Bruce

[Pirate88179]

@ Joe:

When I said " You tie both cu and fe wires together" I meant to each other, meaning both my copper leads will tie together and both iron together, not copper to iron.  Sorry for any confusion there.  Check your wire with a magnet Joe and see the level of attraction to it.  This should give you an idea of the iron content.  I have the feeling we will all be winding more coils in the future, so I might as well get used to the idea.

So the switch will self start?  OK, that is good.  I know we have talked about this before, but do we want solid wire for the secondary?  Should it be enamel coated as in the Tesla coils?  Plastic insulated?  I have read opposing views on this on various sites.  I could not see exactly what NS called for in the patent for the secondary.  Thanks.

Bill